NorthWest Cashmere Association

Tools for Managing Internal Parasites in Small Ruminants:

2011-11-28T23:49:00.000-08:00

Check out this link.

http://www.ansc.purdue.edu/SP/MG/Documents/copper_wire.pdf

EAR TAGS AND TATTOOS

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Tattooing Goats Linda I. Spahr
York County Extension Agent

Tattooing is not the horrible chore that some producers like to make you believe. If you can organize your tattoo digits and have a good person to help you, tattooing can be simple. It is increasingly important to tattoo your goats. The American Dairy Goat Association requires all goats to be tattooed and many breed associations are following suit. The Scrapie eradication program will accept tattoos as identification if they are registered with the state as being specific to your herd. Ear tags often get pulled out and cause a lot of grief. Tattoos, on the other hand, can be a great form of identification if applied correctly.

The most important point of tattooing is to make sure you are putting the tattoo in the correct ear. Some organizations will tell you to put a farm tattoo in the right ear and the individual number in the left ear. Be sure you are standing behind the goat and using the GOATS right or left ear, not facing the goat and getting mirror results. Read the breed or organization guidelines before tattooing any animals. Once the tattoo is applied it is difficult to change.

I like to use the .300 pet tattoo pliers and digits or the 5/16 inch pliers and digits. You can get a tattoo kit at a local feed store, or out of a supply catalog. Be sure you get the correct digits for the pliers. Expect to pay between $20.00 and $40.00 for a tattoo kit. Many kits will come with one set of digits but you may need more than one set. One set of tattoo digits will cost between $10.00 and $30.00.

Follow these steps to insure a good tattoo on your animals.

1. Clean the ear(s) before tattooing. The tattoo will be more legible and there will be less of a chance of infection if the site is clean.

2. Place the correct number/letters into the pliers and tighten. ALWAYS check the tattoo in a piece of paper or a paper towel before tattooing the animal. This eliminates a lot of headaches after the tattoo is put in backwards or upside down.

3. Smear tattoo ink over the spot you plan to tattoo. Green ink is my preference. It works better for animals with dark ears or tail. Try to make sure there are no blood veins, warts, or scar tissue in the area to be tattooed. Remember to hold the pliers so that you are tattooing with the needles going into the inside of the ear and that the pliers are held upright so the tattoo will not be upside-down!

4. Squeeze the tattoo pliers closed over the inked area in a firm, quick motion. You will not be able to see the imprints very well at that point and there may be some blood, but don't worry about that. Sometimes with now pliers and digits the needles will go through the ear and you will have to peel the ear off of the needles. It happens, don't get excited. Immediately ink the area again and rub the ink in with your fingers or gently scrub the ink in with an old, SOFT bristle toothbrush.

5. Clean the tattoo pliers and the digits using a mild dish soap and very hot water. I like to boil mine or disinfect them before I put them away. If you choose to disinfect use a mild form, so the next time you tattoo you don't end up with a chemical burn.

6. Let the ear heal undisturbed. Some tattoos may take 2 to 3 weeks to heal and others heal in a week. Always try to tattoo at least a month ahead of the show so your goat's tattoo can be read without causing discomfort to the goat.

7. If you have a LaMancha goat you will be tattooing the tail web. You will use the same technique. The biggest difference will be the amount of tissue being squeezed in the tattoo pliers. Use the same method, and you should get a nice tattoo.

8. If you have a dark eared goat, it's a good idea to keep a flashlight in your show box, if you intend to show. Shine the light from behind the ear, and it will be much easier to read the tattoo.

Some tattoos will fade over time. It may be necessary to reapply the tattoo. You will follow the same procedure, but be sure to check with your breed registry for rules regarding re-application of tattoos.

PREMIER 1 SUPPLY

http://www.premier1supplies.com/img/instruction/121.pdf

How ear tags can help you…

1. Can indicate sex

Benefit?

Allows rapid sorting by sex while sheep and goats are moving down a chute or in a holding pen. No need to get your hands dirty or spend expensive time to check “the plumbing.”

How to do this:

• Males: Insert primary tag in left ear

• Females: Insert primary tag in right ear

2. Can indicate year of birth

Benefit?

No need to catch them to check their teeth. A tag will tell you the age from 40 ft away. Enables faster

decisions when sorting for culling or breeding.

Two ways to do this:

a. Use a different color for each year. Lambs with purple tags were born in 2007. Lamb with yellow tag 2006.

b. Begin tag number series with the year of birth. Tag 7275 indicates lamb is the 275^th lamb tagged in 2007.

3. Can indicate sire (& dam)

Benefit?

No need to check records for breeding decisions.

Three ways to do this:

a. Use a different-color second tag for each sire

(blue tags = Sire XYZ; purple tags = Sire ABC).

b. Have sire name printed on the tag of its progeny.

(We will do this for you at no extra cost.)

c. Hand-write the ewe’s tag number with a marking pen on the lamb’s tag. If space is limited write it on the inner surfaces of the tag.

Note: Since tags can be lost, we strongly advise using 2 sire/dam tags (one in each ear).

4. Can indicate single, twin or triplet

Benefit?

Speeds up sorting for breeding and sale purposes. Reduces need to keep and consult records.

To do this: Use a different color for each. Repeat this color year after year.

At Premier—

• blue = single

• green = twin

• orange = triplet

5. Can indicate problems

Benefit?

Allows rapid, positive culling for animals with foot problems, dystocia, mastitis, prolapse, etc.

Two ways to do this:

a. Snap a black tag in every problem animal.

b. Use an ear notcher to mark the animal.

Ear Tag FAQ

How can I reduce tag losses?

• Insert tag midway between the skull and the tip of the ear (see diagram below). We observed in our own sheep over the years that tags placed very close to the skull in sheep were more likely to become infected.

Why? A combination of the tissue being thicker and the wound less able to heal (not enough air to dry it up).

• Avoid the large veins in the ear

Why? When damaged, the veins heal slowly and are more prone to infection.

• Don’t use nylon (e.g. Snapp or Swivel) tags as long-term tags.

Why? UV light will eventually cause them to become brittle.

• Avoid double-button round tags for sheep and goats.

Why? They are more likely to snag and tear on grass and wire fences.

• Avoid low-fiber diets.

Why? Sheep on high-grain or liquid diets are desperate to chew. If one starts chewing tags, its penmates will soon do likewise and pull the tags out. For maximum retention and the lowest risk of bleeding and infection, place ear tags in either of the 2 red spots. (One-piece loop tags only fit in the lower red spot.) Avoid the large veins.

How do I keep track of an animal if a tag falls out?

1. Install 2 tags (one in each ear)—with the same number. Official tags can’t be duplicated—but you can use the same individual animal number on the second “backup” tag if you don’t add a flock or premise number.

2. Tattoo the animal. No animal number is more permanent.

What tags does Premier use?

We are always experimenting, so we use many tags. Our preferred system is to:

1. Tag baby lambs with 2 EasyTags, size 1 (same numbers for each tag) within 4 weeks of lambing.

2. Use tag color/numbers/placement to indicate twin-single-triplet/year of birth/sex.

3. For lambs we retain, we substitute an EasyTag, size 5 tag (much easier to see at distance) in the same hole.

4. Never install official tags until the animal is ready to leave the farm. Why our applicator design is

different from others…Good tag retention requires accurate placement (between the veins, midway

between skull and tip of ear, etc.). Tagging sheep and goat ears requires more care and precision than cattle ears because their ears are small. Accurate placement is difficult if the tag projects forward from the applicator (as it does for most applicators)—because a sheep/goat

will jerk its head away as soon as a tag touches an ear.

That’s why Premier’s tag applicator holds the flag portions of the tag back inside the applicator— away from the ear. That means animals won’t feel anything until you squeeze it shut.

How long does it take to get ear tags from Premier?

Less than 2 business days to print and ship them. Then it’s up to UPS ground or US mail to get it to you. We can expedite the shipment—but it will cost you more for the faster shipping methods.

Custom-imprinted tags?

• We will custom imprint tags with your choice of numbers, farm/ranch name, brands and/or logos.

Consecutive numbers and farm/ ranch names are free! Brands or logos have a one-time $15 setup fee.

• Can we imprint numbers out of sequence or individual names? Yes. But it takes more time per tag so the cost is $1.50 per tag (for any tag size).

What tag colors imprint the best—and the worst?

The tag colors in the charts on pp. 14–17 are arranged in order of readability from a distance.

Light colors such as spearmint, salmon, yellow and white tags are the most readable from a distance.

Dark colors such as brown, purple and red are the least readable.

Premier Tip…

If you use tags in your breeding flock, it’s wise to install a tag in both ears when they are baby lambs.

Why? Because lamb wounds heal quickly. And it’s easy to cut out the first tag and install a larger tag without stess to the animal or risk of infection.

2011-08-25T12:02:00.000-07:00

Size Matters

By Linda Fox

I was the NWCA 2011 Fleece Competition Chair. For any of you who have undertaken this task, you know that you get a variety of fleeces submitted in a variety of fashions. One I received this year was of particular interest. The fleece came from Heide Krause of Harmony Farm in Canada. It came in a small flat manila envelope. I put it in the corner of the dining room with the other fleeces waiting to be checked into the computer spreadsheet. I was sad as I thought to myself, “Here is another fleece where the owner has only submitted a small sample for judging.” I know when I see these come in that no matter how wonderful the small sample is, the fleece probably won’t win as the judge has no way of telling how much fleece the goat produced. Sometimes a contest entrant will only submit a sample because we’ve not educated them on the requirements—maybe they didn’t understand and our materials promoting our contest were not clear. Sometimes the fleece sample is small because that is all the entrant could harvest—maybe it was smelly buck and that’s all they could get past their nose or maybe they just missed the best harvest window and this is all they could get. And sometimes, a producer might just send a small sample, not wanting to win the contest, but just because they want a judge’s opinion on the sample. Whatever the case with Heide’s small envelope, at least the postage was minimal.

Later, when I opened Heide’s package, inside I found a neatly vacuum-packed fleece. I’d not seen this before and wondered if the fleece would ever puff up enough to allow judging or if it was forever doomed to be a flat, hard rock.

I carefully cut open the end and eased out the mass. In a few minutes the fleece was fluffy and lovely and filled a 2-gallon zip lock bag.

When I returned Heide’s fleece to her after the contest, I used my Seal-a-Meal to again squish down her lovely fleece. Return postage was again minimal, even though it was going to Canada.

The lesson here: in the old days when the weight of the package seemed to primarily determine the postage, mailing fleeces was cheaper. These days, the size of the box seems to run up the cost considerably even on lightweight contents. If you have one of these handy vacuum gadgets, I would recommend them for keeping your mailing costs in line. I am certainly going to use mine for other than my winter food supply!

2011 International Cashmere Fleece Competition

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The International Cashmere Fleece Competition was held on Friday, May 13, 2011, in Dallas, Oregon, at Goat Knoll Farm.

2011 NWCA INTERNATIONAL FLEECE COMPETITION 70 ENTRIES TOTAL - ALL COMBED

JUDGE DIANA MULLINS -DALLAS OREGON -CHAIRPERSON LINDA FOX

DOES (49 ENTRIES)

JUNIOR DOE CLASSES

DOES - 1ST FLEECE (11 entries)

1 06 MSF EKKO LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM BANKS OR

2 0093 PRISCILLA DENITA WALLACE DENWALLY FARM JERRERSON OR

3 VTXO126 TFC5083 TFC FERN SHIRLEY RICHARDSON TANNERY FARM CASHMERES DANVILLE VT

4 USO689 SGF-183 BELLA JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

5 VTXO126 TFC5082 TFC FAE SHIRLEY RICHARDSON TANNERY FARM CASHMERES DANVILLE VT

DOES -2ND FLEECE (12 ENTRIES)

1 04 MSF LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM BANKS, OR

2 G22 GK MOOGIE PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL DALLAS, OR

3 USO637 SGF-133 SALLY JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

4 VTXO126 TFC5054 TFC EVE SHIRLEY RICHARDSON TANNERY FARM CASHMERES DANVILLE VT

5 USO609 SGF-105 SOPHIE JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

DOES - 3RD FLEECE (12 ENTIRES)

1 USO596 SGF-100 CADENCE JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

2 VTXO126 TFC5047 TFC DAHLIA SHIRLEY RICHARDSON TANNERY FARM CASHMERES DANVILLE, VT

3 USO571 SGF-76 HERMIA JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

4 P9 GK KIHEL PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL DALLAS, OR

5 03 MSF PHOEBE LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM BANKS, OR

SENIOR DOE CLASSES

DOES 4-6TH FLEECE (8 ENTRIES)

1 VTXO126 TFC5003 TFC BEL SHIRLEY RICHARDSON TANNERY FARM CASHMERES DANVILLE, VT

2 USO698 SF - V9 RHAPSADRE JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSBILLE, VA

3 05 MSF KALIFORNIA GIRL LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM

4 O2 MSF FELICITY LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM

L70 GK JAWS PAUL JOHNSON

DOES 7-9TH FLEECE (5 ENTIRES)

1 01 MSF PATCH LISZ ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM

2 00004 BARBARA ANN DENITA WALLACE DENWALLY FARM JEFFERSON, OR

3 USOOO8 RHF-39 GINGER JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM

4 US0605 SF-514 PACHELBEL JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM

5 MDRHF38 MDRHF BUTTERFLY LINDA SINGLEY BEARLIN ACRES FARM SHIPPENSBURG, PA

DOES 10TH & OVER FLEECE (1 ENTRY)

1 B11 GK ESMEREKLA PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL DALLAS, OR

BUCKS (12 ENTRIES)

JUNIOR BUCK CLASSES

BUCKS 1ST FLEECE (4 ENTRIES)

1 07 MSF KOMODOR LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM

2 USO650 SGF 145 DARIUS JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM

3 BAMR A16 BAMR HERMES LINDA SINGLEY BEARIIN ACRES FARM

4 BAMR A15 BAMR HEPHAESTUS LINDA SINGLEY BEARIIN ACRES FARM SHIPPENSBURG, PA

BUCKS 2ND FLEECE (3 ENTRIES)

1 TFC 5059 ETHAN JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM

2 G08 GK FREDDIE DENITA WALLACE DENWALLY FARM

3 0049 DF HORACE DENITA WALLACE DENWALLY FARM

BUCKS 3RD FLEECE (3 ENTRIES)

1 US0588 SGF - 93 CASTOR JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM

2 BAMR Y4 BAMR FIESTA LINDA SINGLEY BEARLIN ACRES FARM

3 TFC 5031 DANTE JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM

SENIOR BUCK CLASSES

BUCKS 4-6TH FLEECE (2 ENTRIES)

1 69 SWC MITHRIL PAUL JOHNOSN GOAT KNOLL DALLAS, OR

2 MEX5BLF010Y GLP TIP LINDA SINGLEY BEARLIN ACRES FARM

WETHERS (9 ENTERED)

WETHER 1ST FLEECE (3 ENTRIES)

1 Y16 GK FUZZ PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL

2 CDL-1 PETER PAN ELIZABETH SCOTT CLAIR DE LUNE LARKSPUR, CO

3 BAMR A4 BAMR HALF PINT LINDA SINGLEY BEARLIN ACRES FARM

WETHERS 2ND FLEECE (1 ENTRY)

1 79 DF WESTON DENITA WALLACE DENWALLY FARM

WETHERS 3RD FLEECE (1 ENTRY)

1 B21 GK DYNAMITE PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL

WETHERS 4-6TH FLEECE (2 ENTRIES)

1 NOVA DIANA & JOE WALKER WAKER FOREST & FARM MILL CITY, OR

2 AMOS DIANA & JOE WALKER WAKER FOREST & FARM MILL CITY, OR
WETHERS 10TH & OVER FLEECE (2 ENTRIES)

1 0-01 GK STAR PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL

CHAMPIONS

CHAMPION JUNIOR DOE

3RD FLEECE US0596 SGF-100 CADENCE JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

RESERVE CHAMPION JUNIOR DOE

1st FLEECE 06 MSF EKKO LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM BANKS, OR

CHAMPION SENIOR DOE

7-9TH FLEECE 01 MSF PATCH LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM BANKS, OR

RESERVE CHAMPION SENIOR DOE

10 + FLEECE B11 GK ESMEREKLA PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL DALLAS, OR

GRAND CHAMPION DOE

US0596 SGF-100 CADENCE JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

RESERVE GRAND CHAMPION DOE

06 MSF EKKO LISA ZIETZ MOONSHADOW FARM BANKS, OR

CHAMPION JUNIOR BUCK

2ND FLEECE TFC 5059 ETHAN JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

RESERVE CHAMPION JUNIOR BUCK

3RD FLEECE US0588 SGF - 93 CASTOR JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

CHAMPION BUCK

TFC 5059 ETHAN JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

RESERVE CHAMPION BUCK

US0588 SGF - 93 CASTOR JANE H. McKINNEY SPRING GATE FARM BARBOURSVILLE, VA

CHAMPION WETHER

79 DF WESTON DENITA WALLACE DENWALLY FARM JEFFERSON, OR

RESERVE CHAMPION WETHER

B21 GK DYNAMITE PAUL JOHNSON GOAT KNOLL DALLAS, OR

Minerals

2010-12-13T08:09:00.000-08:00

Fias Co Farm
Molly Nolte
4659 Seneca Drive
Okemos, MI 48864

We offer loose minerals, free choice, at all times. We offer it in a way that it cannot be "soiled" (stepped in or pooped in), because if it does get soiled, the goat will not eat it. We do not use mineral blocks because the kids climb on them and soil them and then the goats will not use it.

We use a cattle mineral mix that we can find, and buy, locally and has in it what we want for our goats. We mix it equal parts minerals to Diamond V Yeast Culture.

Diamond V Yeast Culture XP-DFM (which you should be able to order through your local feed store) is all natural and helps increase ruminal yeasts and bacteria, which, in turn, aids in digestion and helps the goats better utilize their food. It a sense, think of it as a "food booster". It also contains extra protein and vitamins. (NOTE: This is not the same thing as brewers yeast, bread yeast or nutritional yeast.) We find when we feed this yeast our goats health is generally better and their coats are shinier in the summer and thicker in the winter. We also find that it increases milk yield. There are a few forms of Diamond V Yeast such as XP and XP-DFM. We use, and really like, the "XP-DFM" . This XP-DFM is on the expensive side

($40 per 50 lb. bag), and we have to have our local feed store special order it for us, but it lasts a very long time and we feel it is most definitely worth the cost and effort. Just ask your feed store to special order it.
Do not use a mineral mix labeled for "sheep and goats". This mix is really just for sheep and will not contain copper (sheep can't have copper). Goats do need copper. You are better off using a general livestock mix.
Look for mixes that contain the proper ratio of about 2 parts Calcium to 1 part Phosphorus.

We also offer baking soda free choice in a separate container. Baking soda aids the goat to buffer their rumen, which aids in digestion and helps avoid bloat. The goats will use it if they need it. If the baking soda "gets old" and you feel it is time to refresh it, just sprinkle the old remainder soda on a stall floor.
Goats like their minerals and baking soda fresh, so I offer only as much as they will finish off in a couple of days. This helps avoid waste.
We offer our minerals in such a way that the goats can't "soil" them. We hang the mineral feeders, which we have modified by cutting out a section in the middle so they will hang on a modified "livestock panel". We have modified the livestock panel by using bolt cutters to remove a section. The goats can now stick their heads through the panel to get to the minerals, but cannot step in them. The other side of the panel is our chicken coop, and the goats are not allowed in there, so they cannot get at the minerals from the other side. Hardware cloth keeps the chicken out of the minerals from the other side.

Fias Co Farm
Copyright (c) 1997-2010
Molly Nolte. All rights reserved.
http://fiascofarm.com/

VITAMIN AND MINERAL DEFICIENCIES IN GOATS

2010-12-13T08:04:00.000-08:00

Suzanne W. Gasparotto
HC 70 Box 70
Lohn, TX 76852
Phone 325/344-5775
Originators of Tennessee Meat Goats
VITAMIN AND MINERAL DEFICIENCIES IN GOATS

Proper vitamin and mineral levels are essential to the good health of goats. Although no single mineral can be singled out as more important than others, copper, zinc, and selenium levels are especially critical. The interaction of minerals is astoundingly complex. The most difficult task in raising goats is getting nutrition right, and vitamins and minerals are key. Most producers are not knowledgeable enough to formulate their own feed ration with appropriate levels of minerals and vitamins included. Achieving this is a complex task that is best left to a trained goat nutritionist.

Selenium: Major portions of the United States have soils that are deficient in selenium. Selenium deficiency is widespread in most of the eastern coast of the U.S., into the Great Lakes area, and throughout the northwestern part of this country. Plants grown in these soils are selenium deficient and therefore cannot provide adequate selenium to the goats that eat them.

Selenium deficiency, like Vitamin E deficiency, can cause white muscle disease (nutritional muscular dystrophy), causing the goat to have difficulty controlling its muscles. Newborns with weak rear legs may be selenium-deficient. Kids may be too weak to nurse their dams. Pneumonia may result from weakness in muscles that control breathing.
Producers raising goats in areas having selenium-deficient soil must make sure that this mineral is added to feed. Many producers give BoSe injections to newborn kids, as well as to adult goats. BoSe is a vet prescription item. Contact the local county extension agent or your veterinarian for information on your particular area or google 'selenium levels United States' for data.

Zinc: Zinc is needed in the synthesis of proteins and DNA and in cell division. Excessive salivation, deformed hooves, stiff joints, chronic skin problems, abnormally small testicles, and reduced interest in mating are some of the signs.

Copper and Molybdenum: Unlike sheep, for whom copper is toxic, goats must have copper in their diet. Inadequate copper levels can cause loss of hair color, coarse hair that has hooked end tips, abortions, stillbirths, anemia, frequent bone fractures, poor appetite, weight loss, and decreased milk production.
Molybdenum and copper amounts must be balanced or health problems appear. More than 3 ppm of molybdenum binds up copper and creates a deficiency of copper in the goat.
It is also possible to cause copper toxicity in goats by feeding too much copper. Researchers and producer experiences seem to be proving that goats need more copper than originally believed. Make sure that the copper level in feed is correct for your goats by consulting a trained caprine nutritionist knowledgeable about your area.

Water: Yes, water. The goat's body is normally more than 60% water. Rumen contents must be about 70% water to function properly. Even a slight dip in water consumption can result in a goat with fever and off feed.

Iron: Unless a goat is anemic, iron deficiency is generally not a problem in foraging goats. Certain onion-type plants can, however, cause anemia. Stomach worms, sucking lice, and blood loss are common causes of anemia in goats. Goats that are seriously ill with anemia may be supplemented with injectable iron (Ferrodex 100) or oral adminstration of Red Cell. Conversely, an excess of iron can contribute to decreased fertility in goats.

Iodine: Iodine is as essential in goats' diets as it is in humans. Goiters are the most visible sign of iodine deficiency. Newborns whose dams are iodine deficient can be born with goiters. Commercial feeds and minerals contain non-iodized salt, so it may be necessary to offer iodized salt on a free-choice basis. A quicker method of getting iodine into the goat is to paint 7% iodine on the hairless tailweb and to offer kelp (seaweed) free choice.

Calcium and Phosphorus: Calcium and phosphorus must be in proper balance or serious illnesses can occur. Female goats that have been bred at too young of an age can develop lameness and/or bowed legs if they are calcium deficient. Calcium is essential to bone formation and muscle contractions (including labor contractions). A calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 2-1/2 to 1 is proper and helps prevent urinary calculi. Too much phosphorus in relation to calcium causes urinary calculi. An imbalance of calcium and phosphorus can result in birth defects.

Salt: If a goat lacks salt in its diet, it may be seen licking the ground -- trying to get salt from the dirt. Offer salt as part of an appropriate mineral mix on a free-choice basis. Do not force-feed salt by mixing it with processed feed; this procedure is used to limit feed consumption. Salt is often used as a feed limiter, as heavily salted rations cause goats to eat less. A pregnant doe who consumes too much salt may have udder problems -- edema (subcutaneous accumulation of fluids).

Sulfur: Excessive salivation may be a sign of sulfur deficiency. A properly balanced loose mineral and vitamin mix is required. Direct supplementation of sulfur can result in the binding up of iron and copper.

Potassium: Goats on forage usually get all the potassium they need. Penned animals need potassium added to their processed grain mix. Emaciation and muscle weakness are signs of severe potassium deficiency.

Magnesium: Goats deficient in magnesium have lowered urine and milk production and may become anorexic.
Manganese: Slow growth rates in kids (especially buck kids), reduced fertility and abortions in does, improperly formed legs, and difficulty in walking are general signs of manganese deficiency. Too much calcium interferes with manganese absorption.

Vitamin A: Inadequate amounts of Vitamin A in a goat's diet can lead to thick nasal discharge, difficulty in seeing or blindness, respiratory diseases, susceptibility to parasites, scruffy hair coat, and diarrhea. Kids with coccidiosis need more Vitamin A because they have reduced intestinal absorption of nutrients. Adults are likely to be less fertile and more susceptible to diseases if they do not have adequate levels of this essential fat-soluble vitamin.
B Vitamins: A sick goat must be supplemented with B vitamins, particularly Vitamin B 1 (thiamine). The B vitamins are water soluble, so they need to be replenished daily. One of many conditions that depletes the goat's body of B vitamins is diarrhea (which is a symptom of greater problems). Goats whose rumens are not functioning properly or have had their feed regimen changed should be supplemented with B vitamins, particularly B1 (thiamine).
One of the most common examples of Vitamin B1 (thiamine) deficiency is polioencephalomalacia (goat polio). Thiamine must be given to counteract severe neurological problems. Thiamine-deficient goats display rigid bent necks that won't straighten and a loss of eye focus. This disease usually results from eating moldy hay, feed, or sileage; however, it occasionally occurs because the organism exists under certain environmental conditions and a susceptible goat picks it up. The symptoms mimic those of tetanus and dehydration. Because all B vitamins are water soluble, it is difficult to overdose them.
Vitamin B12, an injectable red liquid requiring a vet prescription, is essential in the treatment of anemia.

Vitamin D: Enlarged joints and bowed legs (rickets) are a result of Vitamin D deficiency. Penned goats must have Vitamin D added to their feed.

Vitamin E: Feeding sileage or old hay can produce Vitamin E deficiency and result in white muscle disease. The injectable prescription product BoSe contains both selenium and vitamin E and is often given to newborns in selenium-deficient areas. Vitamin A-D-E Gel is available for supplemental oral use.

Conclusion
This list is by no means comprehensive but is intended to provide a producer overview. If you get nothing else from this article, understand that proper goat nutrition is very complex and not for amateurs.

For producers affected by Tall Fescue Toxicity, several companies around the USA make a fescue-balancer loose mineral. If mineral deficiencies are widespread in your herd, Mineral Max II is available. An injectable cobalt-blue colored liquid that must be obtained from a vet, Mineral Max II contains zinc, manganese, selenium, and copper in chelated (timed-release) form. It is given to goats IM (into the muscle) usually one injection per year and in decreasing amounts as the goat ages. Mineral Max II is made by Sparhawk Labs in Lenexa, Kansas for RXV Products in Westlake, Texas. It may be available under other brand names. Do not give BoSe and Mineral Max II together.

Producers who live near a feed mill that makes commercial goat feed are encouraged to use their services and purchase their products. Such firms employ livestock nutritionists who have knowledge of the nutritional needs of goats in the areas for which they manufacture their products. If such mills are non-existent in your area, contact your county extension agent or closest agricultural university for assistance. These folks should have knowledge about feed mixtures that the average producer does not possess. Find out what your area is deficient in and make sure that is added into your feed supply.

Do not attempt to formulate your own feed unless you are a trained goat nutritionist. If such expertise is not available in your area, locate and hire a goat nutritionist to formulate a feed ration for you. This service is not expensive but you may be required to buy four to six tons of feed, so contact your neighboring goat producers about working together on this purchase. There are computer programs into which the nutritionist can input information unique to your farm and your management techniques to develop a feed mix specifically for your needs. The health and well-being of your goats are depending upon your making wise decisions about their nutrition. Find a place to cut costs other than goat nutrition. You cannot starve a profit out of a goat.
Suzanne W. Gasparotto
ONION CREEK RANCH
5-11-09

2010 OFFF

2010-11-15T23:46:00.000-08:00

Best Fleece in Show Moon Shadow Farm White Chocolate

Champion wether Caprette Cashmere Zaki

Diamond Award Cashmere Yarn Skein (Linda Fox)

Reserve Grand Champion Doe Goat Knoll Feather

Grand Champion Doe Goat Knoll Kaylar

2010 International Fleece Competition Results

2010-04-22T11:15:00.000-07:00

Combed Doe
1st Fleece 7 entries in Class

1. WA21280215 Liberty Metal
Mickey Nielsen Liberty Farm Cashmere
Yakima WA

2. WA21280216 Liberty Dark Opal
Mickey Nielsen Liberty Farm Cashmere
Yakima WA

3. WA21280208 Liberty Sunstone
Mickey Nielsen Liberty Farm Cashmere
Yakima WA

4. RWF 03 BLK RWF Ellie Mae
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

5. RWF 92 BLK RWF Eutaupia
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

2nd Fleece 7 entries in Class

1. SHF 39-08 SHF Katrina
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

2. WA21280158 Liberty Pear
Mickey Nielsen Liberty Farm Cashmere
Yakima, WA

3. 2008-G45 RWF Daramascotta
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

4. 2008-G21 RWF Dannika
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

5. 2008-G10 RWF Daffodil
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

3rd Fleece 10 entries in Class

1. MSF Felicity
Lisa Zietz Moonshadow Farm
Banks, OR

2. White Chocolate
Lisa Zietz Moonshadow Farm
Banks, OR

3. 2007-W8 RWF Callysta
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

4, 2007-W38 RWF Ciciley
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

5. Phoebe
Lisa Zietz Moonshadow Farm
Banks, OR

4th-6th Fleece 13 entries in Class

1. SHF56 RSC Heather
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

2. Kalifornia Girl
Lisa Zietz Moonshadow Farm
Banks, OR

3. Kakayo
Lisa Zietz Moonshadow Farm
Banks, OR

4. SHF 49 RSC Gabrielle
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

5. P37 GK Kaylar
Paul Johnson Goat Knoll
Dallas, OR

7th-9th Fleece 7 entries in Class

1. SHF43 RSC Flutter
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

2. WA2128050 Liberty Monica
Mickey Nielsen Liberty Farm Cashmere
Yakima, WA

3. SHF 31 RSC Ebony
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

4. SHF 29 RSC Eve
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

5. Choco
Lisa Zietz Moonshadow Farm
Banks, OR

10th & over Fleece 1 entry in Class

1. SHF 15 RSC Bijoux
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

Combed Bucks
1st Fleece 6 entries in class

1. FXMF Morgan
Carol & Carrie Spencer
Foxmoor Farm Silverton, OR

2. G08 GK Bond
Paul Johnson Goat Knoll
Dallas, OR

3. G40 GK Raider
Paul Johnson Goat Knoll
Dallas, OR

4. G-80 GK Freddie
Denita Wallace Denwally Farm
Jefferson, OR

5. SHF 140 SHF Lucky
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

2nd Fleece 2 entries in Class

1. WA21280162 Liberty Saul
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

2. PA14610089 Fiesta
Linda Singley Bearlin Acres Farm
Shippensburg, PA

3rd Fleece 2 entries in Class

1. 2007-W32 RWF Chaplin
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

2. AVID#102833612 BLF Duke
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm Coldwater, ON

4th-6th Fleece 2 entries in Class

1. SHF4-05 RSC Highlander
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

2. SHF 8-06 RSC Iman
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm Valleyview, AB

Wethers
1st Fleece 1 entry in Class

1. P45 GK Ruger
Paul Johnson Goat Knoll
Dallas, OR

2nd Fleece 1 entry in Class

1. Nova
Diana Walker Walker Forest & Farm
Gates, OR

3rd Fleece 1 entry in Class

1. Andy
Diana Walker Walker Forest & Farm
Gates, OR

Grand Champions

Grand Champion Junior Doe
SHF 39-08 SHF Katrina
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Reserve Champion Junior Doe
WA21280215 Liberty Metal
Mickey Nielsen
Liberty Farm Cashmere
Yakima, WA

Grand Champion Senior Doe
SHF 15 RSC Bijoux
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Reserve Champion Senior Doe
SHF43 RSC Flutter
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Grand Champion Doe
SHF 15 RSC Bijoux
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Reserve Champion Doe
SHF 39-08 SHF Katrina
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Grand Champion Junior Buck
WA21280162
Liberty Saul
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Reserve Champion Junior Buck
PA14610089 Fiesta
Linda Singley
Bearlin Acres Farm
Shippensburg, PA

Grand Champion Senior Buck
SHF4-05 RSC Highlander
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Reserve Champion Senior Buck
2007-W32 RWF Chaplin
Phil Smith & Becky Bemus
Roving Winds Farm
Coldwater, ON

Grand Champion Buck
WA21280162 Liberty Saul
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Reserve Champion Buck
SHF4-05 RSC Highlander
Keith & Helene Adolphson
Spruce Haven Farm
Valleyview, AB

Champion Wether
P45 GK Ruger
Paul Johnson
Goat Knoll
Dallas, OR

Reserve Champion Wether
Nova
Diana Walker
Walker Forest & Farm
Gates, OR

Prevention of Diseases

2010-04-22T11:10:00.000-07:00

Suzanne W. Gasparotto
Lohn, TX 76852
Phone 325-344-5775
Originator of Tennessee Meat Goats

DISEASES OF GOATS: PREVENTION, CONTROL, AND MANAGEMENT
A major concern of responsible goat producers is the introduction of diseases onto their property. Prevention is of course the producer's desire, but realistically speaking, control and management are most likely to be goal.
Disease can enter the producer's farm or ranch from many sources. Introducing new animals is the usual avenue but definitely not the only way that illness finds its way into the herd.
1) Bringing new animals into the herd from offsite. Quarantine and handling procedures will be addressed in this article.
2) Offering stud service. This typically involves bringing other producers' does onto the property for service by an on-site buck.
3) Goat shows. A huge source of infection and illness, shows are like children's day-care centers -- incubators for disease.
4) Visitors. Infectious materials can enter on visitors' shoes, clothing, and hair; on the tires of their vehicles; in hay, water, tubs/buckets, feed and other supplies that visitors have brought with them.
5) Unclean conditions in pens and pastures.
6) Poor health management practices within the herd.
7) The producer's family members and pets.
Most producers are aware that they should quarantine new animals brought from outside the ranch property in order to protect their goats from whatever diseases the new animals might be carrying. However, the reverse is just as true: newly-introduced goats need to be protected from organisms present on the ranch to which they've never had their immune systems previously exposed. Recognize that these goats are on a new property in a changed environment and often in a much different climate from which they had been previously adapted for living. From the moment they left their previous homes, these new goats' immune systems are under constant assault.
Set up a pen and shelter sized to accommodate the producer's anticipated needs and locate it away from pens and pastures where healthy animals are regularly kept. The pen should be large enough to provide space for proper exercise and should have at least a three-sided shelter with roof to protect the new goats from bad weather. Nearby but not within this pen/shelter area, there should be several smaller gated pens and sheds where sick and/or contagious animals can be confined for observation and treatment. Place a shallow plastic cat-litter pan and a gallon of bleach outside each pen and require persons entering and exiting to wet the soles of their shoes in the bleach. The producer and all other persons handling these goats should consider using disposable gloves.
New and/or ill goats should be kept in appropriate parts of these "sick pens." Goats new to the ranch should be quarantined for a minimum of four weeks, during which time they should be dewormed, vaccinated, and otherwise examined, based upon the producer's management practices. If blood testing for specific diseases is part of the program, do it while the goats are in quarantine. If the tests come back positive and the new goats are already running with the main herd, exposure to disease has probably already occurred.
Offering breeding services on the ranch is an avenue for contamination. Before making a decision to offer such services, the producer should read this writer's Article entitled Pros and Cons of Offering Breeding Services on the Articles page at www.tennesseemeatgoats.com. A lot of decisions must be made and agreements put into writing before the first goat arrives on the servicing ranch.
Participating in goat shows is almost a no-win situation with regard to disease. The producer must take extraordinary precautions to protect both goats and human participants from exposure to contagious bacteria, viruses, and other organisms. Animals and people, both young and adult, present risks to all in attendance. Consult an experienced goat-show participant to find out what steps to take to protect you and your goats from taking "unwanted visitors" home with you. At the very minimum, sick goats and ill people should not attend shows and should not be allowed to participate. If they are, leave immediately. Don't even unload your animals. The health of your goats is much more important than a forfeited entry fee or a winning ribbon.
Visitors, relatives, children, pets, and even the producer can easily bring to the ranch infectious bacteria, viruses, and other organisms without ever realizing it. Using a shallow plastic cat-litter pan and a bottle of bleach, the producer should have all visitors step through the solution. This is the very minimum protective action that goat ranchers should take. If the producer knows that visitors or family members have had direct access to goats from outside the ranch, then those folks should be asked to change clothes and shoes before they enter your property. A visit by kids to the 4H barn is a good source of contamination -- a fact that probably never crosses peoples' minds.
Unclean/unsanitary pens, feed troughs, and water containers are excellent sources of infection -- worms and coccidia oocysts thrive in these environments. Flies carry disease from goat to goat. Less often recognized is the exposure to disease that occurs when infective birthing materials are left in pens/pastures for healthy goats to contact. Infected placentas left lying around after birthing are transmitters of abortion diseases such as chlamydiosis; many other diseases are spread through placental material and mucous secretions. Footrot/footscald is highly infectious and contaminated ground very efficiently spreads these diseases. Viral-borne diseases such as some types of Pinkeye at quickly passed around in crowded herds. Caprine Arthritic Encelphalitis (CAE) is a viral disease that is spread through body fluids and mother's milk. Cutting open and draining an active Caseous Lymphadinitis (CL) abscess and exposing the exudate (pus) to other goats and the ground upon which they walk is one of the main ways that CL is spread throughout a herd. Reusing contaminated needles, syringes, and scalpels is another easy way to transmit disease.
Raising quality goats requires planning and hard work. Doing the planning part in advance will cut down on the amount of hard work each producer faces daily.

How to select a healthy goat
by Patricia Stewart

Picking a healthy goat is very important whenever you are bringing a new goat home. There are some nasty diseases with no cures, and once they get established in your soil, there's nothing you can do but start over on a new piece of land. Start out by just observing behavior and general coat condition. A healthy goat should have clear eyes and nose, a shiny hair coat with no bald patches, and a twinkle in its eye. Bald patches may be a sign of a mite or lice infection, causing the goat to rub due to irritation.
If you are buying from a breeder, ask them if they test for CAE, Caprine Arthritic Encephalitis. This disease has been an issue for a long time in goats, and thankfully, conscientious goat farmers are finally taking it seriously. There are three blood tests, any of which will give you a heads up if there's a problem. Any possibly "positive," should be automatically checked with one of the other tests to verify. CAE shows up after awhile with stiff and swollen legs, awkward walking, sometimes a click from the knees of an infected goat. The udder is often hard and the animal's coat may be oily or scaly. If you are buying from a large farm, ask if they practice CAE prevention, which means the kids are bottle fed, never nursing off of mom. CAE is most commonly spread in the milk, but often doesn't show up as an illness for many months or years.
If you see any signs of swelling beneath the jaw or any oozing sores, do not buy that goat. Do not buy a goat from that farm, and wash your hands immediately. Caseous lymphadentitis, CL, is a highly contagious disease spread by discharge. The abcesses swell up in the lymph glands and as they pop, they spread the disease.
Always ask the seller what type of vaccinations they give. When was the last time the goat was wormed, and what kind of wormer was used. A healthy goat should not have visible ribs or backbone. It should have healthy pink eyelids and gums and manure that comes in pellets, individually. A goat that is passing runny or clumpy manure is not at its best. It may just be a rich diet or stress, or it may have a severe case of worms.
Keeping a goat healthy is really pretty easy. Good hay, adequate grain, fresh water and draft free home. But curing a sick goat is often impossible. I would not recommend ever buying from a sale barn, as those animals are exposed to many different germs under high stress conditions. This makes the more susceptible to bringing a problem home with them. Often times, the animals are taken to the sale barn because they are sick, or old, and the owner can't, or doesn't want to invest in healing them.
It's a good idea to keep any new goat in isolation from the existing herd, for at least two weeks. Usually, if something is "brewing" that is enough time to see how the animal does, without endangering the rest of the herd. But remember, goats are herd animals, so if possible, buy two new ones, at least, so they can keep each other company during the quarantine. They'll be much hardier and happier that way.

Introduction to a Meat Goat Quality Assurance Program
and HACCP Roger Merkel
Langston University
Biosecurity PPP #1 - Establish a biosecurity plan for your farm
Consider your production operation and devise a plan to ensure your animals are protected from diseases entering your herd. Potential ways in which diseases could enter your farm include: visitors, feed deliveries, new animal acquisition, and show animals returning to the herd, stray animals, rodents, birds, and others. The potential risk from these various areas should be examined in the context of your production situation. Plans should be made to protect animals from identified risks and to deal with animals that become ill so that diseases occurring on your farm are not transmitted beyond your farm gate.
Biosecurity PPP #2 - Minimize or avoid contact between your animals and animals not on your farm
Many diseases are transmitted through animal to animal contact. Avoiding contact with animals not on your farm will reduce disease outbreaks. Consider the location of pastures and grazing areas in relation to your neighbors’ animals. If new facilities are planned, consider the location of neighboring livestock barns and pens. Do not build facilities in or near drainage areas from livestock facilities. If your animals are very valuable, for example breeding males whose semen is collected for sale; consider double fencing along adjoining property lines to further protect them from neighboring animals. At exhibitions, house animals using solid partitions to minimize contact. Control stray animals, both domestic and wild. Maintain quarantine procedures. Do not haul other animals with your own and clean mud and manure from livestock trailers.
Biosecurity PPP #3 - Establish a quarantine protocol for animals entering your herd
Preventing diseases entering your herd from new animals begins during purchase. Be sure to ask the seller for health and production records on animals you plan to buy. Ask about the disease or herd health program followed. Also, look at the whole herd, not just the few animals you plan to purchase. This will give an indication of the health program followed. Upon arrival at your farm, place new animals in quarantine for a minimum of 30 days. Consult a veterinarian for a quarantine vaccination and deworming protocol and any diagnostic tests that should be performed. Buckets, shovels, fencing, etc., used in the quarantine area should not be moved and used in the general herd. Feed and care for quarantined animals last and do not re-enter your herd before changing clothing and washing boots to prevent carrying diseases from new animals to your herd. As an example, if a quarantined animal has a caseous lymphadenitis abscess that bursts, a person may inadvertently step in the pus from that abscess and carry that on his or her boots. If that person then reenters the farm herd, he may contaminate the ground or other animals.
Quarantine animals upon return from exhibitions or fairs if they have had contact with other animals. Follow the same quarantine guidelines for these animals as with purchased animals. Do not haul animals other than your own to and from shows.
Biosecurity PPP #4 - Establish a protocol for visitors to your farm
Many visitors to your farm will likely be producers themselves. To ensure that diseases are kept from entering your farm area, establish a protocol for any visitors and their vehicles. Control traffic entering your farm and have a separate parking area or ensure that vehicles are clean of mud and manure. This includes livestock trailers, feed delivery trucks, and veterinary vehicles. Consider having disposable boots available for visitors who wish to tour your facilities and herd. Alternatively, have a footbath with disinfectant where visitors can clean their shoes before and after seeing your animals. Have a wash basin or facility for visitors to wash their hands before and after handling animals. Explain that your procedures protect not only your herd, but theirs as well.
Biosecurity PPP #5 - Do not allow persons who have had contact with livestock in foreign countries on your farm, or bring clothing or other items from them to your farm, for a period of 5 days after their arrival in the U.S.
Largely in response to outbreaks of Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD) in other countries, the USDA published guidelines for persons from, or who have traveled to, foreign countries where FMD is present. These persons are encouraged not to have contact with livestock for 5 days after entering the U.S. Some states or institutions, such as Langston University, recommend a 10-day waiting period. The virus causing FMD can be carried in hair and nasal passages, clothing, luggage, shoes, etc. Following this PPP helps safeguard the entire U.S. livestock industry. Outbreaks of FMD, while not a threat to humans, result in the necessary destruction of all infected and potentially infected animals with enormous industry and economic consequences.
Preventing or minimizing contact between foreign travelers and your herd for the period after their arrival may also prevent the spread of other diseases as well.

Cashmere Processing and Harvesting Procedures

2009-12-18T22:34:00.001-08:00

The Need to Understand Cashmere Processing and Harvesting Procedures
Mickey Nielsen, Liberty Farm Cashmere 2009

Understanding Processing

Before you harvest your cashmere it is important to understand the mechanical processing of cashmere. Because the Cashmere goat has a dual coat (guard hair and down) it must be placed through a separator/dehairer. This separator/dehairer works by centrifugal force. As it spins around the heavier weight guard hair is thrown down to the under bins and the lighter cashmere fiber continues to travel to the end of the processer. When the guard hair is too long and fine it holds tight to the spinning drums and is not thrown down. Then the processing must stop to clean all the long guard hair from the drums as no other fiber can be processed until it is removed. This causes time loss and added cost to you the client. At times the guard hair cannot be completely removed; if it is too long or too fine then processing has to stop.

The scoured cashmere is placed through the separator a minimum of five times and it takes a minimum of six hours for each pound of cashmere.
What causes your fleece to travel through that separator more than the minimum is what you need to know about. Because the more times your fleece has to go through the separator the more potential damage happens to your delicate cashmere. You as the breeder/producer can control the quality of your cashmere product with some understanding and a few extra steps at harvest time.

The list of quality inhibitors looks like this;
too much guard hair, too long of guard hair, too fine of guard hair, matted down, short down, inconsistent length of down, weathered tips, vegetation contamination, and mixed grades.

Too much guard hair; this can be something that you need to correct in your breeding. As in some goats have high density of down and some have low density of down in relation to the guard hair. If you want to improve your yield improve your density first. The other reason you may have too much guard hair is the failure to skirt your shorn fleece before sending it into the processor. Many cashmere goats have excessive guard hair on the breech area. Taking a close look at this area before including it in your line can improving your product.

Too long of guard hair; this too can be changed with your breeding program. Any guard hair more than an inch longer than the down is too much. This can also be changed in the shearing shed by doing a double shear. Double shear means cutting off all the excessively long guard hair before you shear off the complete fleece. Skirting your fleece after you shear to eliminate the long guard hair is another option, but this is very time consuming and for most producers it just doesn’t happen. This is done by spreading the fleece out and pulling all the long guard hairs out of the shorn fleece.

Too fine of guard hair; can only be corrected through breeding. This is a really nasty problem to deal with because the dehairer cannot remove guard hair that is of the same micron as your down. You want the guard hair to be two to three times the micron of down. The dehairer also can not remove kemp (hollow cored hair).

Matted down; it is important to shear your cashmere goats before they start to shed, once they start to shed the down becomes trapped in the guard hair and if not removed quickly it becomes matted. If you cannot easily pull the mats apart with your fingers the separator cannot dehair it. Do not include these kinds of mats in your line.

Short down; is generally a breeding problem and needs to be corrected there. If you have goats with short down (less than 1.25 inch) it may be best to comb the down out as this does not cause any loss of length as shearing does. Short down will be kicked out of the separator with the guard hair.
Inconsistent length of down; is a breeding issue and a skirting issue. If you have a goat with major inconsistent lengths of down, separate out the areas of different lengths into different lines. Consistency is very important to look at when considering a goat for breeding.

Weathered Tips; is caused when guard hair does not cover the down. This must be taken into account when measuring the length of the fiber, and placing it into a processing line as these tips will become noils and may cause processing problems.

Vegetation contamination; “Being frugal and keeping 'every little bit' is not a benefit. It is like adding moldy strawberries into your fruit salad.” Diana Blair, Going to The Sun Fiber Mill.
Some parts of the fleece you just have to throw away because of the vegetation. If you don’t take it out at harvest time it will contaminate the whole clip.

Mixed grades; can ruin your end product. Educate yourself to detect fine from coarse fiber. Know what cashmere is and what cashgora is.
The first year clip is actually the hardest to dehair. The micron count between the guard hair and down is almost the same, plus the down tips are what the goat was born with and has very poor tencel strength, thus causing breakage and noiling. Some producers shear off the baby fleece in June for this reason.

Keep the baby fiber out of your other fiber

The Harvest
Plan to harvest on days that are dry and your goats are dry. A fleece that is wet or damp from snow or rain is very difficult to harvest and does not store well. Depending on where you live you may have to shut them up for a day or two to keep them dry before harvesting.

It is recommended that you shear your goats from youngest to oldest and white to dark. This helps to ensure two things. Shearing your younger goats first helps avoid accidently spreading any illness or disease that your older goats may have. White to dark fiber keeps your white line of fiber pure from dark hairs. Do not plan to trim hoofs at the same time as shearing, this can cause those trimmed hoof parts to get caught up in the shorn fleece. Processers hate this as it is hard on their equipment.

Tools and Equipment

Shearing: Cashmere goats are typically shown in the standing position.
You will need a stanchion or a head-bail to secure your goats in while shearing, quality power shears, new teeth and cutting blade for every 10 goats, shear oil, blade lubricant and blade cleaner. Individual marked bags for each fleece or grade lines, a garbage bin, broom, power outlet, and good lighting.

Combing: All the above apply except the power shears. Although a smaller grooming clipper set is nice to have on hand to tidy up the rear end. Double coated dog combs or rakes work well for combing cashmere goats. Find one with a nice comfortable grip that fits your hand well. You don’t want the rake to wide as they can be hard to work with.

Draft; your goats into handling pens noticing which goats look like their coats are lifting. These goats are the goats you want to harvest first. Draft them into pens according to age, sex, and color. Work from youngest to oldest, lightest to darkest. This is a great time to also get a good look at the condition of your goats and to give any needed boosters or parasite control.

Consider how long your goats will be penned up and if they require shade, food and water. Also notice the conditions you will be working in and what your requirements will be.

Sample the Fleece; once the goat is in the stanchion in three to five spots to compare uniformity and fineness grade. Also take note of vegetation in fleece and long guardhair. Decide what needs to be removed from the clip and if the clip needs to be sorted into different grades.

Recording the correct fleece weight harvested for each goat is important for clip improvement in the future. Record the method of harvest, uniformity, fineness, weight, color and any other trait that you desire. It is important to keep records on your harvest so you can keep improving your clip. Have each goat’s records and record all information gathered.

Skirting; the fleece can happen while you shear or after you shear. Skirting must be done while you comb as trying to remove lesser quality fiber after you comb is more difficult.

To skirt while you shear, decide which areas of the fleece you will not be keeping in the clip and toss these areas aside as you shear. You will not keep areas that have heavy vegetation (top line or neck), shorter than 1 ¼ inches, heavy stains, excessive guard hair to down ratio, matted or dung filled fiber.
If the fleece has more than one color, fineness grade or one inch difference in length from neck to breech; separate these areas into different lines.

Summary
The more understanding you can gain about the processing of animal fibers, the different pitfalls to avoid in your clip, and a better idea of what your animals produce the greater chance you have of producing quality cashmere products with less waste of your time and effort.

The need to place your fiber into as few of grade lines as possible and the need for a quality end produce have to be balanced. This is why consistency in your herd is important. You are charged for processing a minimum of one pound for each grade line.

There is much to learn about your cashmere goats and the process of producing quality cashmere products. Don’t give up, just keep learning. Ask your processer what you can do to improve your clip for next year. All of this will help to ensure a quality return product in the end.

2009 Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival

2009-08-25T17:41:00.000-07:00

Belt Buckle Awarded to the Grand Champion Cashmere Doe: Liberty Pear
Owned and shown by Marie Nielsen, Liberty Farm Cashmere, Yakima Washington
Judge: Linda Pfeiffer, Carnation Washingotn

Champion Junior Buck:GK Raider #G40, Owned and shown by Paul Johnson, Goat Knoll Farm, Dallas Oregon
Reserve Chamion Junior Buck: Liberty Silver, owned and shown by Mickey Nielsen, Liberty Farm, Yakima Washington

Grand Champion Doe: Liberty Pear, owned and shown by Marie Nielsen, Liberty Farm Cashmere, Yakima Washington
Reserve Champion Doe: Sun-Up Strawberry, owned and shown by Lillian Mayer, Sun-Up Farm, Colton Oregon

Champion Wether: Liberty Mike shown and owned by Marie Nielsen, Liberty Farm Cashmere, Yakima Washington
Reserve Champion Wether: FXMF Junior, shown and owned by Carol Spencer, Foxmoor Farm, Silverton Oregon

Best Fleece in show: Sun-Up Poppy,owned and shown by Lillian Mayer, Sun-Up Farm, Colton Oregon

NWCA INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION

2009-06-08T15:23:00.000-07:00

2009 NORTHWEST CASHMERE ASSOCATION
INTERNATIONAL CASHMERE FLEECE
COMPETITION RESULTS

Judge: Kris McGuire

Division 1 Class A
Combed Yearling Doe (16 in class)

1st Liberty Pear WA21280158, Liberty Farm, Mickey Nielsen
2nd RWF Daxia 2008-75, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
3rd RWF Donyelle 2008-62, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
4th JAB Evita JAB181, Jabberwocky Farm, Susanne Roth
5th JAB Georgia JAB169, Jabberwocky Farm, Susanne Roth

Division 1 Class B
Combed Two Year Doe (18 in class)

1st RWF Ciciley 2007-W38, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus;
*Junior Champion Doe
2nd RWF Callysta 2007-W8, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus;
*Reserve Junior Champion Doe
3rd RSC Jinx Y50, Living Earth Farm, Joy Cameron
4th RWF Chiquita 2007-W28, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
5th Jasa Yellow 41, Clobver Lane Acres, Corinne Wiedemann

Division 1 Class C
Combed Three Year Doe (6 in class)

1st RWF Brownie Girl 2006-50, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
2nd Lucy USO601, Spring Gate Farm, Jane McKinney
3rd STC Rena, Spring Tide Farm, Wendy Pieh
4th Dora USO602, Spring Gate Farm, Jane McKinney
5th Abigal USO516, Spring Gate Farm, Jane McKinney

Division 1 Class D
Combed Four- Six Doe (16 in class)

1st RSC Giselle R26, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
2nd RSC Gabrielle 48, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adolphsan
3rd Pachelbel USO605, Spring Gate Farm, Jane McKinney
4th RSC Fancy Feet 35, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adolphsan
5th RSC Hanna W26, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus

Division 1 Class E
Combed Seven – Nine Doe (7 in class)

1st RSC Ebony 31, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adolphsan
2nd STC Rachel, Spring Tide Farm, Wendy Pieh
3rd Liberty Seattle WA2128NLF32, Liberty Farm, Mickey Nielsen
4th RSC Eve 28, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adoplhsan
5th STC Felicia, Spring Tide Farm, Wendy Pieh

Division 1 Class F
Combed Over Ten Doe (4 in class)

1st Capricorn Isadora JABoo4, Jabberwocky Farm, Susanne Roth;
*Senior Champion, & Grand Champion Doe
2nd RSC Bijoux 15, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adolphsan
3rd STC Viola, Spring Tide Farm, Wendy Pieh
4th RSC Bodocia 16, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adolphsan

Division 2 Class A
Combed Yearling Buck (9 in class)

1st Dakota TFC 5033, Tannery Farm, Shirley Richardson
2nd FXMF Eclipse HM1, Foxmoor Farm, Carrie & Carol Spencer
3rd RWF Damian 2008-69, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
4th Fiesta 14610088Y4BAMR, Bearlin Acres Farm, Linda Singley
5th Dante TFC5031, Tannery Farm, Shirley Richardson

Division 2 Class B
Combed Two Year Buck (7 in class)

1st BLF Duke, Black Locust Farm, Yvonne Taylor;
*Junior Champion Buck,
2nd RWF Chaplin 2007-W32, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus;
*Reserve Junior Champion Buck
3rd RWF Collosal 2007-W42, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
4th STC Axel, Spring Tide Farm, Wendy Pieh
5th STC Lars Roberts, Spring Tide Farm, Wendy Pieh

Division 2 Class C
Combed Three Year Bucks (4 in class)
1st STC Playto 81087618,Roving Winds Farm,Becky Bemus
2nd RSF Highlander 78, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adolphsan
3rd RSC Iman 82, Spruce Heaven Farm, Helene Adolphsan
4th STC Ferguson 81068578, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus

Division 2 Class D
Combed Four –Six Year Bucks (4 in class)

1st Boom 416, Goatiqae, Ann Bertschy;
*Reserve Senior Champion & Reserve Grand Champion Buck
2nd BLF Gilligan MEX5BLF0102, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Benus
3rd RSC Harley W33, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus
4th CTD Chris, Black Locust Farm, Yvonne Taylor

Division 2 Class E
Combed Seven –Nine Year Bucks (1 in class)

1st BLF Hjort, Roving Winds Farm, Becky Bemus;
*Senior Champion & Grand Champion Buck

Division 3 Class B
Combed Wethers (1 in class)

1st Joey, Andrew Palmer ;
*Champion Wether

Division 4 Class A
Shorn Yearling Doe (1 in class)

1st B351-07, Cashdown Goats Partnership, Trisha Esson

Division 4 Class D
Shorn Four – Six Doe (1 in class)

1st P235-05, Cashdown Goats Partnership, Trisha Esson

Division 4 Class F
Shorn Over 10 year Doe (1 in class)

1st Helena BPC161, Bessey’s Place, Marilyn Acklley;
*Reserve Senior Champion Doe

HARVESTING CASHMERE

2009-06-08T15:04:00.000-07:00

COMBING CASHMERE GOATS FOR DUMMIES:
By Vermeda Fred
Novice Cashmere Goat Owner
March 2009

Perhaps there should be a personality quiz for those of us who have elected to own, and therefore comb, cashmere goats. Similar to depression, obsession and anxiety scales, as a licensed family therapist in my “other” vocation, I feel fairly confident that those of us who choose this avocation (freely, remember) would be found to share some interesting traits.
In my case, I own two absolutely gorgeous and insanely quirky white female cashmere goats. After they survived their first winter in the panhandle of Northern Idaho (2007), it was clear we would be progressing to the next phase of Cashmere goat ownership: combing out their fleece. Like all new millennium goat owners, I came in from the cold, sat down at my computer, careful to protect my laptop from fragments of hay and cedar chips clinging to my sweatshirt, and Googled combing cashmere goats. What I found filled the range from no information (uh, like it’s obvious, dummy . . . just comb them) to a rancher in Oklahoma who has invented a new tool for combing and who attests he can comb an entire goat herd in an afternoon (he admits his rancher friends come to help and he, in kind, returns the favor).

The price for his tool exceeded my ability to pay, and I have no rancher friends in my neighborhood who own cashmere goats.
So, upon further inquiry with other Cashmere goat ranchers, vets, spinners, people standing in line at the airport, I struck out with my own plan. Remembering their writhing dance nine months earlier from the trailer to their new pen, and being told that cashmere goats are like elephants, they never forget a thing, I decided the purchase of a stanchion was an absolute necessity. The head rest fork snaps easily onto the stand, and one only has to wrestle the thing into the barn or goat shed, preferably nuzzled up closely to the grain trough, which should be overflowing with corn. So far, so good. I was halfway there. The other half was my choice of a collie comb, which I had used on my Weatherwax rough collie in years past, his downy undercoat so similar to cashmere, I’ve wondered why we aren’t raising collies instead (who will do just about anything for a few liver treats . . . bring in the paper, pull Timmy out of the well. . . and won’t dirty up their backsides). That possibility will have to be left to another article.

I positioned the stand and looked at my girls who looked back at me from their perch, the three of us finally seeing eye-to-eye. In keeping with my goat ownership training, I picked my older gal, the Queen Goat, Gertie, to set the example. With a firm grip on the base of her horns, talking as soothingly as possible to an animal heavier and stronger than I and packing lethal weapons, my partner and I physically convinced her to jump off her perch and hop onto the stanchion, latching her in behind her head with the chain provided by the stanchion company, and told her to have some corn. She shivered instead. My partner stood on one side, while I started at the bottom of her abdomen area, lifting the guard hairs out of the way, gently combing out the down underneath. Being mid-March with the first warm sunny days arriving only a week before, I was surprised to find the white down wafting off into my hands like clouds. I had a clean trash bag ready, tagged with Gertie’s name and the date. Then, a surprising thing happened: As I combed, Gertie began to rest her body against my partner, and though she didn’t exactly purr, it seemed she was resigning herself to enjoy the experience, as much as any cashmere goat allows themselves a blissful, fear-free moment. It must feel good, after nearly a year since her last combing, to get all the schmutzick cleaned off her body. Makes my skin shiver just to think about it.
I moved slowly, methodically, section to section, covering her torso, back, legs, neck, chin, head, lifting the guard hairs away, gently combing out the down underneath which is softer than any lingerie, until finally reaching the area I had been avoiding for the last hour: her tail. Unlike what I would do with dogs or horses, I knew I couldn’t take a garden hose to her behind. How had she become so soiled from dropping only gravel-hard nanny berries? Her companion’s backside was clean. It surpasses the word limit of this article to put apt description to the entanglement of goat poop in long strands of cashmere. Suffice it to say that you will never complain again about the cost of a cashmere sweater. Knowing there’s no other way around than through, I plunged in there, combed out all the muck, careful NOT to put it in the same bag as the ivory white and amazingly clean raw cashmere down. The trash cashmere was thrown out with the soiled cedar chips, for some enterprising ground squirrel to steal away to its nest.
An hour and a half later, Gertie was done, and young Giselle knew her time had come. She took her place on the stanchion with a stoic grace that only her beautiful white face could convey, we took our positions, one offering a warm body for protection, the other combing out the downy undercoat gently, gently, careful not to pull the skin, catching the ethereal puffs and sliding them into her tagged, clean bag, bits of it floating around us: goat heaven. With some irony, every now and then, we wiped our hands on Downy-sprinkled rags, because the cashmere down will stick to anything, like cotton candy sticks to fingers. I had to remind myself not to lick, and was grateful for the rags that cleaned my hands without clogging up the down in the comb. Giselle didn’t eat the corn either, but I have to believe that having it there within reach of her tongue was a goodwill gesture not entirely lost on an ever-hungry goat.
Both goats combed out, stanchion and bags safely removed, they hopped back onto their perch and regarded us with their same silent stares as if to say, are you done torturing us for today? To which we silently replied: Yes, once we leave, enjoy the corn.
We went through the same process every three weeks through mid-summer, when there was nothing left to comb out. Although we got progressively better and faster at the combing, Gertie nor Giselle ever ate the corn in their trough, although finally, they deigned to allow us to hand-feed them afterwards, knowing full well they were the ones giving us the reward rather than the other way around. I cannot say how the aforementioned Oklahoma rancher combs out a herd in an afternoon (he must have way more ranching friends than I), but if there are improvements used out there in the field, I will search future newsletters for your stories and advice.
As for me and my girls, should goat owners ever be required to complete personality tests, I am sure that combing reveals a sado-masochistic love affair with cashmere goats. Both the goats and we, their keepers, find the process punishing, but oh (!) afterwards, it feels so good!***

COMBING CASHMERE GOATS
By Diane Thompson, Riversong Farm
Retired Professional Cashmere Goat Owner
March 2009

“How do I know when I should comb my goats?”
“I’m combing, but nothings coming out and I’m getting a lot of guard hair!”
“There is lots of cashmere on my goat, but it won’t come out when I try to comb it!”
After a decade or so of combing up to a 100 to 200 goats a year, I guess you do learn a few tricks to make the job easier. Some you just take for granted, and after a while you’ve forgotten what they are and what that first year of combing was like. Mickey’s request for this article was quite timely. I’d just come back from doing a workshop at Sprucehaven Farms in Alberta, where we discussing classing cashmere, assessing cashmere goats, and combing cashmere goats. When you start describing in detail what you are doing, you realize there are a few techniques that have been refined over the years.
Following are the things we do/did at Riversong Farm as part of the “Combing Season”. This can be broken down into a few parts:
• Timing
• Selection
• Health assessment
• Classification
• Combing
• Record Keeping
• Work Safety
TIMING:
We found our goats may start to shed anytime after December. With a large herd you can notice that the variation in the shed cycle is an individual trait, as well as being related to the time of breeding/kidding. Pregnant does generally shed before they are due to kid. Wethers and bucks are a little bit harder to predict. Some individuals tend to shed earlier, others later. You get to know your herd over time.
Timing it right to comb out a clean fleece with minimal guard hair is very important in the overall operation. Processing cashmere is not cheap, as we all know. The more guard hair in the fleece, the more it costs to process it. The cashmere loosens from the follicles and sheds out BEFORE the guard hair does. The trick is to comb the goat when the cashmere has “let loose” and the guard hair is still firmly planted.
Over the years, the fibre we sent to the mill ranged between 70% - 90% cashmere by weight, depending on how well we managed to time the combing. The later we combed the lower the yield because the guard hair was also shedding. Our goal was always to make sure the yield was above 75% cashmere.
In our climate, temperature is also a factor. It takes a goat a couple of days to readjust to the winter climate without their cashmere under down. For this reason, we never liked to comb on really cold days. If it was -20C (-2F) or colder, I would hold off on the combing. At those temperatures or warmer, the goats in no way showed any stress by loosing their cashmere (and keeping their guard hair). They would be on higher rations of grain and hay to meet their energy requirements, and with their large rumens emitting heat from their insides out, they never seemed bothered at all. They should also be dry when combing….if there has been snow or rain and the fleeces are wet, put off combing another day.
SELECTION:
Our Combing Season is January 1 to March 31, with the bulk of the harvest in February. At this time of year we would feed grain rations daily. Having a central feeding pen where you can bring the goats in for their grain makes it easier to evaluate them. As they are chowing down on the goodies, I would walk up and down the line looking for goats who are ready to comb.
Now, what does a goat who is “ready to comb” look like.? Like wheat or grapes, or any other crop, it takes a bit of experience to know when it is the perfect time for harvesting. It takes a bit to develop an eye for when the cashmere has “lifted”. The cashmere grows out of different hair follicles than the guard hair does. They “let loose” earlier than the guard hair. When the cashmere has released, it will slowly move out of the coat. There are a few clues as to when this has happened. In goats with shorter guard hair, you might notice the cashmere looking more uneven in length. There might even be tufts where some is really sticking out. A tuft of cashmere on their horn is also a good clue. With goats with long guard hair, you might just start seeing their cashmere peeking out from under the guard hair, where it has remained hidden all winter. Sometimes the coat just looks “fluffier” or “lifted” more than normal. If I see one in the grain line-up that looks like it might be ready, I just grab a tuft of cashmere. If it all slides out easily, she is likely good to go. If only a bit of cashmere comes out, she can wait for another day.
At this time I select how ever many I want to comb that day….generally 4 – 5. I never liked to make it so many that I started hating the job. Combing was always a very pleasant harvest time. The ones I selected were haltered and tied up to wait their turn for the combing stanchion. The rest were sent back to the main pens, to wait for their turn another day.
HEALTH ASSESSMENT:
This is a great time to do a complete hands on inspection of the doe before she kids. I take the opportunity to run my hands over her, looking for any lumps or bumps or things that shouldn’t be there. I can check her teeth, her gums, her eyes, and her udder, and make notes of anything I want to record. Check for lice too, although louse checks and control is best done in the fall so you don’t have any lice in your fleeces in the winter. At this point you can also assess her weight, using a tape if you don’t have a proper scale.
I also trim their feet, since there tends to be more growth in the winter when they are getting grain and not running around on hard ground to wear the hooves. It is too good an opportunity to miss.
I did not vaccinate or worm at this time, as I preferred to do these procedures to the entire herd or sub group at the same time. In this way I can more accurately choose the ideal time for the maximum benefit to the animals for these drugs:, eg, vaccinating 4 weeks before kidding starts to get maximum immunity passed on to the new born kids.

CLASSIFICATION:
This is the time where you can examine the fibre on the goat, and see what she is producing. I liked to check it on the shoulder, mid-side, and rump, noting variations. I would class each sample for cover, colour, fineness, style, and length. This type of assessment and record keeping allows you to select the right buck for each doe to try to improve on anything that could be improved on. We used a form like the one below to assess and record the information on the goat, but each breeder can design and use a form that best meets their needs for classing or assessing. This was probably one of the most important tools we used for herd management and breeding decisions. This information was then transferred into the main data spread sheet for the herd, along with the total weight of the fleece after combing.
Date ID B D
Colour
Ww wc gy br sgb dgb MFD
F+, F, M, C, C+ Cover
1 2 3 4
Length
N- S- Br Style
1 2 3 4 Weight
Condition
1 2 3 4 Teeth
Comments:

We would take samples at this time, to get a histogram done. We would sample every animal on the second fleece, as vs. the kid fleece, to get a more accurate measurement of what the adult animal is producing. Older animals may also be tested, to make sure they remain in the cashmere range, or confirm they are as fine as they appear to be.

COMBING:
And then the actual combing begins. Always a pleasure to get my hands into those fleeces!. Now, actually combing the fleece might seem simple enough. But there are a few tricks to that too, which will make the process go a lot faster and more efficiently. At this point I have a plastic garbage bag in a bucket, with the fleece classification form for that doe in the bag. This will be her fleece bag
The first step is tying the goat properly, if she is not already. If you do not have a stanchion, and are tying the goat to a post or fence with a halter, make sure the goat is tied as snugly to the fence as possible. The more room they have to move, the less secure they will feel and the less pleasurable the process will be for both goat and human. Once they are restrained safely, comfortably, and completely, I start the combing. Keep in mind that this is particularly important for the kids. This is all new to them, and some will be pretty sure you are up to no good at all, and really object loudly and energetically to the process. By the time they have gone though a few combing seasons, many of them actually enjoy it; full massage and total body scratch. Some even lean into the brush to direct the “scratchin”.
The first brush to use is the classic dog brush with a gazillion little short (1/2” ) wires. This is used only to clean off the surface of the fleece of bits of hay, grain, poo balls, matted cashmere (there shouldn’t be any if your timing is right) or other undesirable materials.
Then the actual combing. The brush we used is a 3” dog rake. The head has one row of ¾” teeth. A larger rake takes too much hair and pulls too much, so we stayed with the smaller size. Another comb that works well, but is hard to find is a small round rake. There are two rows of 1” teeth, set in a “V” pattern on the head. This comb works well for animals with very long guard hair.
We start the combing on the side, in a vertical line from the withers to the elbow. Starting softly, repeatedly comb the one line until the hair and cashmere are all lying in the same direction, and the rake runs through it with less resistance. This takes roughly 5 – 10 strokes. Once you feel that the hair is all in line, then change the angle of the comb by lifting the handle to a 45 degree angle. This rotates the teeth so that they are going into the hair at a similar angle to that of a hoe going into the garden. Combing with this increased angle “lifts” the cashmere out. Every 4 – 5 strokes I take the cashmere off the comb with my free hand and either hold it or put it into the bucket, depending on the quantity. Slowly you move down the body of the goat with the leading edge of the comb. Try to comb a row only about one inch wide, to minimize the amount of pulling. In this way you move the comb down the body, taking strokes from top to bottom, move over about an inch once the cashmere is combed out of the row you are combing. Properly done, on a goat that is ready to comb, the cashmere should just roll out, leaving virtually all the guard hair on the goat.
Some parts of the goat do tend to shed later than others. Generally the neck hair is the last to shed. This means it might be tough to comb out, while the rest of the cashmere comes out easily. If you have only a few goats, as we do now, you can always choose to leave it and catch her up another day. If you’re combing many goats, it is a one shot deal. That means you get all you can while she is in the stanchion, even if it is a little more resistant.
Bucks – to comb or not to comb. By this time of year, most of the soiling has worn off our bucks. There is still some around the front legs and chest, but the rest of the body is pretty clean. Certainly there is still that bucky smell, so you don’t want to go down to the local cafe for a quick cup of Java immediately after combing the bucks. However, if you don’t comb these fellows, you can’t keep track of what kind and amount of fleece they are producing. This is even more important with your boys, since they have the most influence on your kids. And again, it gives you the chance to really check the guys over to make sure they are in good condition. Our bucks get the same treatment as the does.
Some items worth noting:
• Clean the comb off between goats, or during the combing if the fleeces are dirty. A sticky comb will make it much harder to slide through the fibre and lift out the cashmere.
• Clean goats are much easier to comb than if the cashmere is soiled or dusty.
• Healthy hair is also easier to comb. If the fleeces are dry or brittle from lack of zinc or copper the cashmere does not slide out as easily.
• Scurf or dandruff in the fleeces indicates lack of zinc. Interesting to note that zinc is a main ingredient in many dandruff shampoos.
• Poor differentiation between the cashmere and the guard hair will make them harder to comb. This is most often noticed on the first fleeces, when a doeling has very long fine guard hair. By her second fleece the guard hair is generally much coarser, and the differentiation is not an issue.
• Feeding alfalfa hay or using overhead feeder’s results in more bits of leafy material in the fleeces, particularly along the top-line.
• Straw bedding is much better than shavings or pellets to keep the fleeces clean.

When everything is done right it is about a 20 – 30 minute job to comb the goat, moving at a good pace. Of course that is assuming everything is as it should be: the fleece is ready, the hair is healthy and clean, the goat is secure and relaxed, and all is well.

RECORD KEEPING:
Once you have your daily bags full, and have let the newly groomed goats go back with the herd, you can take the bags of fleeces back to your house. At this point you can weigh each fleece, and record the weight on your combing records. Assess the fleeces again, off the goat, to see how they look, compared to your “on the goat” assessment. You can also feel the handle of the fleeces better in the bag than on the goats.
Now you can sort them depending on if they will go to the mill, or sold as raw fleeces, or used by you, or to go to the fleece competitions.
Keeping good records of each animals fleece over the years is absolutely critical to a good breeding program. With this information you can make sound breeding choices, as well as set and measure production goals.

WORK SAFETY:
Always, when handling stock, be very careful to keep both you and the goat safe from injury. Watch those horns, especially on the kids. Bruises on your legs are one thing, but you really want to make sure you don’t loose an eye. An uncomfortable goat is going to be harder to handle, as they will be struggling. Check halters to make sure they have not moved down the nose and are interfering with breathing or putting pressure on the soft cartilage. “Give them enough rope and they’ll hang themselves” definitely applies here – tie them snugly. Secure haltering and tying is much safer for both the goat and the human. And, from personal experience, I also recommend to make sure your stanchion is on level ground. Falling off a tipping stanchion with a 130lb very annoyed Queen doe on top of you is not a pleasurable moment.
For those of us with weak wrists, the repeated motion of the combing action can lead to some pretty tender wrists as the combing season continues on. Wrist support and an aspirin before combing (to prevent inflammation) can work wonders. I had totally forgotten about this, until at the combing and classification workshop this February. Not having combed in a year, I wasn’t prepared or thinking about it being anything but a lot of fun. Add to that the challenge of “We want to see how Diane combs a goat in 20 minutes” and I had a brutal reminder. After the third goat I knew I was going to hurt that night. I won’t be forgetting my wrist support or the aspirin next time! _____________________________________________
Dan and I have now retired from full time farming, and this year’s combing season was a totally different experience with only 10 does to comb. I do miss the herd, and the thrill of the “Cashmere Harvest”, with all the fleece bags filling up with that beautiful, amazing, incredible fibre. But my little “motley crew” of 10 still allows me to hold on to the excitement of harvest time, and the really rewarding experience of producing this amazing fibre that we all share. I hope our experiences here are of some interest/use to other producers,
Kind regards, Diane

GETTING THE FLEECE OFF
Mickey Nielsen, Liberty Farm Cashmere
2006

This article must be reproduced in its entirety and the name and contact information must be included at the beginning of any reprint. americancashmere@aol.com

Cashmere goats shed their fleece once each year. Depending on where you live this can happen anywhere from December to March. Generally in the areas with colder longer winters goats shed later and areas with warmer shorter winters the goat's shed earlier.
So learning when your goats are likely to shed is the first step in knowing when to remove the fleece if you are combing or shearing. With in this time frame each goat is a bit different in their shedding cycle. Some goats shed from the front to the back, some from the back to the front and still others (the goats I like to keep) shed their complete coat at one time. The diameter of the cashmere fibers: average fiber diameter (AFD) or mean fiber diameter (MFD) which ever you choose to call it, and the Co-efficient of variation (CV) play a big part in how a cashmere goat sheds its fleece. It has been my finding that goats with a CV under 20% are the goats that shed their coat at one time. These also are generally the goats with the lower AFD.

The health of a fleece is something that must be considered be it shorn or combed. You must keep your goats lice free, in good health, and fairly clean to grow a fleece that is of value. A fleece contaminated with lice, excess dander, excessive vegetation, and with stress breaks, is of no value to a hand spinner.

Some times if the lice, dander, or vegetation is limited it will not show up after machine processing, but if the contamination is bad the processor will not accept it.
A fleece with breaking points from ill health has no value because it breaks as you process it, a fleece that is less than 1 ¼ inches long maybe of no value. You have wasted money feeding through the winter if you allow these things to ruin your fleece. It happens to the best of us if we are not diligent in our herd management.
Harvesting a fleece for the best resulting product requires you to understand how the fleece grows on your goat. Most, but not all cashmere goats grow coarser fiber on their necks. The fiber on the underside of the belly, and lower front and hind legs tends to be shorter and coarser. The premium fleece is from the shoulders down the side of the goat to its rump. The top line can hold heavy vegetation; this must be considered before adding it to your harvest. The goal is to harvest as much of your goats fiber without down grading the whole fleece. Fleece with variable lengths is not desirable because of the results while spinning. Yarns spun with variable lengths of fiber tend to pill more and not retain their integrity.

Combing or Plucking
Timing can be everything when combing your goats. Try to comb too early and you may break the fibers, comb to late and you may have a matted mess. I have found that I love to comb my goats over shearing them. I just find it more pleasing to me…..so that is what I breed for; goats that comb well. I comb about 20 goats each year. I prefer goats that have guard hair about one inch longer than the cashmere. It helps hold the cashmere on the goat as it sheds. This affords me a little leeway in the combing window. I have found that combing goats with longer guard hair is not a big problem, but that I may need to shear off some of the guard hair just to keep it from getting out of control.
A stanchion is a must; when we first started with cashmere goats the head bale was used to hold a goat. This was a strange contraption of metal that wrapped around their face with a chain that went behind their horns and hooked on the other side. Personally I hated those things. No goat was ever or will ever willingly walk up to one of these head bales and put their head into it. You have to handle each and every goat and force its head into it. And the whole reasoning behind them was so you could shear the neck. Not worth it to me!
As I learned more and reality seeped in I realized three things.
I was going to become the sole person handling our goats.
I had no desire to man handle goats every time I needed to work with them.
I wasn’t going to bother shearing the neck on most of my goats for three reasons.
Leaving the neck fleece on kept the goat warm, so I didn’t need heat lamps.
I didn’t want the coarse necks in with the premium fleece.
There is normally heavy vegetation contamination on the neck.
Thus it saved me money and time to not shear the necks.
Using a stanchion has allowed me to work my goats without physically handling them. A little training with grain and 95% of my herd willingly jump up and into the stanchion, all I have to do is pull the lever over and secure it. The goats are pleased because it allows them to eat a little grain while I do what ever needs doing. The goats don’t jump around quite as much, I can check teeth, check the eye for worm load, drench, and I can still comb or shear the neck on the goats I want too. I drag fewer and fewer goats each year. Yippee!! Now, others still use the head bale and love it. It’s all about what works best for you. But I can tell you my body really likes the stanchion.
Yes, we built our own stanchion with bars that open wider than standard stanchions too allow room for horns to fit through. We also made it so we can open it extra wide when we work with the big bucks. These types of stanchions are offered for sale in more places as the horned goat population is growing.

A long tooth pin brush used to groom dogs is of great help when combing your goat.
#1 All Systems has a great pin brush that has no heads on the ends. I have been unable to find it in local stores but the website for the Show Dog Store sells them for about $10.00. http://www.showdogstore.com/index.asp
Use this brush to first comb out the tangles and as much vegetation as you can. Then you need an undercoat rake to comb out the cashmere. Starting at the bottom of the goats side raise the guard hair and begin combing out the cashmere. It is best to clean off the brush after each stroke to avoid matting the fiber. Sometimes it becomes a real challenge as you are combing to get the cashmere to not stick to your hands, the comb, and anything else it touches because of the static. It is helpful to have a fabric softener sheet around to rub on your hands once in a while. Now if you really want to keep your fibers nice and neat as you comb, having a shoe box is the way to go. That way you can lay the fibers in the box and they will not be crushed so much as in a paper or plastic bag.
I use plastic grocery bags. I can label them with the goat’s information and the date, tie them to the panel by my stanchion and place the fiber in them as I go. They are also light enough that I can weigh the fleece right in them without having to subtract the bags weight. Then they easily tie up to be transported back to the house.

Shearing
Timing is also important when shearing your goats. Ideally you want to shear just before they start to shed. This avoids losing any fiber to shedding and lessens the occurrence of matting. If you are planning to raise goats to shear you have to think of your yield/production and breed for goats with shorter guard hair. Shearing your goats also requires a stanchion, and a quality power shear with a 20 tooth goat comb. If I were looking to buy a set of shears I would purchase one from Premier 1 Supplies. http://www.premier1supplies.com/ Quality shears make shearing a breeze and good maintenance of the shears and the blades saves you time, frustration and money. Blades require a more precise “edge” to cut fine fiber, so you must keep your blades sharp, expect them to need frequent sharpening and keep them oiled as often as every 2 minutes while shearing. That is oiled not a “kool” spray.
It is important when shearing to start with your youngest, lightest colored goats first, this ensures that if you nick a goat you are not passing a health problem on to your younger goats that your older goats may have, and that you are not contaminating white fiber with dark fiber. Also you do not want to trim the goats hoofs at the same time you shear to avoid picking up hoof trimmings in your fleece; the processors do not like this! You may not see the importance of these precautions right away but as you do more you will see the wisdom in these steps.
Before you start to shear you need to quickly assess the goats fleece, are you going to want the neck with your premium fleece? If not shear it last or not at all, if you shear it and it is coarser place it in a bag just for neck fiber.
I use the pin brush also before I shear to untangle the guard hair and remove as much vegetation as possible.

Start shearing with the top line first. Begin at the top of the tail head and shear towards the neck. If the top line is full of vegetation shear it off and throw it away. You don’t want this in with the rest of your fleece.
Shearing requires you to be ambidextrous; you will shear the right side of the goat with your right hand and the left side of the goat with your left hand.
Standing on the opposite side you are going to shear; lean over the goat and shear up the hind leg to the top line you just cut. This is the breech area. If it is covered with long or short dense guard hair and short coarse fiber don’t keep it. Shear it off and throw it away. It cost you to mail it to the processor and it will degrade your finial product. Next return the shears to the tail head and shear horizontally from tail to head, tipping the blade down to follow the curve of the goat’s body. You want to avoid second cuts. Second cut is a term used to describe when you cut a portion of the fleece twice, thus cutting it in half. Continue shearing down the side of the goat in this fashion until all the fleece is off on this side, gather it up and place in it in a bag. If the lower front leg fiber is short don’t put it in with your premium fleece. Repeat on the other side of the goat using your other hand to shear horizontally from tail to head.
Areas on the goat to watch to avoid nicking the goat are; coming up the breech area, and just behind the front legs in the arm pit area.
Stretching out the goat’s body while shearing is helpful in avoiding nicks. Shearing up the back of the hind legs must be done with care, goats have a major artery in the back leg. You do not want to nick this. Shearing vertically down the side of the goat should be avoided because of the greater chance of nasty nicks. Nicks happen on the edge of your cutter.
After I have sheared off the fleece I want to keep I than go back and do a clean up around the goats rear, or any other ugly spots that I will not want to look at for the next three months in the pasture.*

HERD MANAGEMENT

2009-06-08T15:01:00.000-07:00

CULLING
WHY DO IT AND HOW TO START
By Carol J Spencer
Foxmoor Farm, Silverton Oregon

Winter has come and with it are many overcast days, often accompanied by fog, mist or a light rain. Now that breeding is over, the does are usually lying under the shed, heavy with babies and chewing their cud.

When the kids come in the spring they are all darling, so cute playing and jumping. I could sit and watch them all day. But it is not practical or economical in to keep everyone. So how do we decide?

During this time of quiet it is a good time to review or make a farm plan. The farm plan is a simple list of things we like and dislike to see in our goats. It’s also helpful to list the management practices you intend to use year after year and calendar for them.
The first question you need to ask yourself is why you have goats, and what are your goals? Everyone will have a different answer depending on what part of goat rising is their interest. But hopefully we all want to improve our animals and that means culling.

To decide on who is to be kept, make it easy by breaking up the traits you hope to see at different times of the kid’s development. This should be at these stages; birth, weaning, yearling, first kidding or breeding, each year at kidding and fiber harvest time thereafter.
From birth to weaning; concentrate on conformation and color. Because of our goal for unique colored hand spinning fleeces color is really important to us. In the following picture the light colored goat is what we call “graffiti” this type of markings in cashmere goats should be culled at birth.
We also have found for our goals we cull goats with too much white on their heads such as the goat in the center of the picture. The doe with the rear end view was culled because of the steep rump, the dark colored doe was the only one kept for breeding.

At weaning time check the mouth and pallet to see if they fit correctly, check genitals; doelings should have only two teats without splits, buckling scrotum’s should be large and not split more than ½ inch or better yet be without a split. If kids have fiber you can usually get an idea of color and crimp at this time.

As soon as kids hit 45-50 pounds they should be off to the auction if they haven’t measured up. Keepers who have pasted all check points need to be in their own pasture group. Look them over at least every three months. As this is the time that many things undesirable will develop. Pay extra attention to genitals and growth.

As yearlings it is time to evaluate their fiber for all traits, yield, color, length, crimp, and micron. Goats that pass the test will then become part of your breeding herd or sold as quality breeding stock.

At our farm we have about twenty to twenty five animals for breeding. For the past five years we have been working on establishing a herd of red cashmeres, which have unique, natural colored fleeces for the hand spinning market.

Our goals are to produce the best animals, fleeces and hides which will sell in hopes that the goats will pay for their up keep and more.

The other plus we receive is our property is listed as a farm and therefore eligible for a farm tax deferral.

Why do we cull heavily? Red is a recessive color, so the more animals in a pedigree who are red or of a darker color, the better the desired color of the fleece. To accomplish results quicker and keep our herd small we replace the breeding does with their daughters when they are as good as or better than their mothers. New blood is brought in from purchased does from other farms. Herd males are from our own lines and breeding because we know all animals in their backgrounds. We find we have less surprises show up this way. If you are willing to try culling, remember!
“KEEP THE BEST AND CULL THE REAST”
Still not sure, need some help? There are several members who have had goats for many years. You have only to ask as this is one of the benefits of joining the NWCA. May 2009 be a good year for us all! ***

CULLING IN A MEAT-GOAT HERD
Suzanne W. Gasparotto
HC 70 Box 70
Lohn, TX 76852
Phone 325/344-5775
Originators of Tennessee Meat Goats
"Healthy," "hardy," and "adaptable" are adjectives that must be descriptive of goats in a meat-goat herd. Unlike humans, there are no EMS services, doctors, or hospitals "on call" for the weak and infirm; if not culled, they will spread illness and attract predators to the herd. Each goat must function at its optimum every day of its life in order to survive, thrive, and not be a risk to the rest of the herd.
How does a producer decide who and when to cull? The following list is in no particular order and may leave something out that is important to your unique situation. Conditions and needs vary from location to location. Some of these categories overlap.
1) Age and Sex. Pasture/forage-raised meat goats tend to *peak* at six to seven years of age. An udder on breeding does begin to show wear and tear from briars/bushes and from nursing multiple kids. Males usually have shorter life spans than females. A six-year-old male goat is middle aged; his teeth are beginning to wear down and he finds it more difficult to feed himself on forage. The rougher the conditions, the younger they should be culled.
2) Hooves and Legs. Goats must be able to travel over much territory daily as they forage/browse and keep up with the herd. Staying with the herd means protection from predators. Bad hooves make this impossible. "Bad" hooves include overgrown feet and claws that are too soft. Goats with weak pasterns (the part of the leg above the hoof's fetlocks) will not be able to survive on forage. Weak pasterns may be attributable to White Muscle Disease and can sometimes be remedied by giving injections of selenium and vitamin E (BoSe).
3) Udders and teats. Pendulous udders and bulbous teats are difficult for newborns to grasp and nurse. Multiple pregnancies resulting in litters of kids are very hard on pliable udder and teat tissues. Udders that are sagging and/or have poor attachment to the body are prone to injury as the goat walks over varying kinds of terrain daily. Mastitis (infected udder) is usually incurable and recurs with subsequent kiddings (chronic), making it a cull factor. A doe with a damaged or torn udder should be culled.
4) Teeth and Mouth. Goats have all four sets of permanent teeth usually by four years of age. After that, teeth begin to buck outward, spread, and wear down from years of grasping and tearing plant materials. A goat with worn-down teeth can't feed itself and will starve to death. An overbite or under bite prevents the goat from properly grasping and efficiently grinding its food because its teeth are out of alignment.
5) Body Conformation. Pelvic structure is important for does to kid easily. Hips that are too narrow make for difficult delivery of kids. A large body barrel is important for carrying multiple fetuses. In both females and males, a sizeable rumen is a sign of a good digestive factory. (A goat with a big rumen is not a fat goat.) A doe that has problems kidding over and over again should be culled.
6) Non-Breeders. Both males and females who do not breed on a recurring basis should be culled. This obviously includes hermaphrodites (goats with both male and female genitalia).
7) Poor Mothering Instincts. Does that are not interested in nursing their kids don't belong in a meat-goat herd. Sometimes bottle babies who grow up to become mothers exhibit this behavior, never having been dam-raised themselves. This is just one more reason to never have bottle babies.
8) Low or No Milk Output. Occasionally a doe kids and has no milk. Sometimes the problem is nutritional. Some diseases (Caseous Lymphadenitis, Caprine Arthritic Encephalitis, mastitis, abortion diseases) reduce milk production. If the producer determines that the doe is genetically a poor milker, cull her.
9) Recurring Kidding Problems. A doe that consistently needs assistance in kidding should not be kept in the herd. The producer will lose production when does on pasture produce weak or dead kids or they die in childbirth.
10) Abortion Diseases. Each producer must decide how to handle abortion diseases in the herd. Since goats are the poor step-children of the livestock industry, many illnesses/diseases have not been well researched and medications have not be developed specifically for goats. Producers must either use off-label products or nothing at all. Many abortion diseases fall into this category. Oxytetracycline 200 mg/mL is the drug of choice in most cases. The producer may consider the costs, both in time and money, to be prohibitive and instead choose to cull the does affected. Because the various abortion diseases which affect goats are transmitted in so many different ways over which the producer has little to no control, this writer does not believe that severe culling will resolve this problem long-term. Such constant turnover presents its own risks -- the producer will cull some does that possess desirable characteristics and will further risk the introduction of new diseases via new goats into the herd . Aggressively addressing the issue with medicines and improved hygiene should result in a herd of does with improved resistance to the organisms. Example: Preventatively injecting pregnant does with Oxytetracycline 200 mg/mL every 40 days from breeding until birthing and efficiently and properly disposing of infected placental materials are essential steps towards reducing abortions..
11) Internal Parasites. Maintain records so that parasite-tolerant goats can be retained and wormy and coccidiosis-prone goats can be identified for culling. (There is no such thing as a parasite-resistant breed of goats.) Parasite-tolerance means that the goat can tolerate a certain level of internal parasites and still function effectively. Assuming that the goats are not overcrowded and pastures are rotated every three weeks (the life cycle of a stomach worm), parasite-tolerance is a trait that can be passed from generation to generation (heritable trait). Depending upon dewormers and coccidiosis medications to control internal parasites will not result in a parasite-tolerant herd. Instead, the producer will have a herd of goats whose internal parasites have developed immunity all classes of dewormers.
12) Unthrifty. Goats that do not maintain body weight/conformation and are always too thin should be checked for internal parasites. (A goat with visible ribs is too thin. A thin layer of subcutaneous fat should cover the ribs.) Sometimes these goats are heavily infested with worms or coccidia oocysts or might have Johnes Disease. If unthrifty goats cannot be turned around quickly, cull them.
13) Slow Growers. Some producers cull because they consider the growth/weight gain rates to be sub-par. A variety of factors unrelated to the breed or cross-breed can affect growth rates: worms, coccidiosis, inadequate nutrition (overcrowding leading to lack of forage/browse), and un-identified chronic illness to name a few. Inexperienced producers may incorrectly conclude that the goats need to eat more grain concentrates for faster weight gain. Not true. A goat can only process so much feed into muscle and bone; the rest goes to deposit fat and exit the body via waste materials..
Some breeds are historically known as slower growers than others. This writer does not view this condition as a drawback. There are many different markets for varying live weights of slaughter goats and the demand so much exceeds the supply that the meat-goat producer should be able to sell his production without difficulty. The keys to profit are to know your market, breed for your market, and keep input in the form of feed, labor, and medication to the minimum.
14) Disease Tolerant. There are some goats that are simply not healthy animals. For a variety of reasons, their immune systems can't handle the stresses that goats encounter daily. For some reason -- sometimes never discovered -- they are illness prone. Give such a goat a chance to get well and adapt; if it can't, cull it. It is a threat to the rest of the herd.
15) Culling for Incurable Diseases: Caseous Lymphadenitis (CL), Caprine Arthritic Encephalitis (CAE), Johnes Disease.
CL is manageable in meat-goat herds. See this author's article on Managing CL with Formalin on the Articles page at www.tennesseemeatgoats.com. Colorado Serum will soon have a CL vaccine for goats. Remember that goats must be negative for CL for it to work. If a goat has multiple CL abscesses, it should be culled; that goat probably got a very large dose of the bacteria and will be a recurring problem.
CAE usually isn't a problem in meat-goat herds, because animals destined for slaughter generally don't live long enough to display full-blown symptoms.
Johnes Disease -- a chronic wasting disease -- is hard to diagnose and is thankfully apparently not wide spread in meat-goat herds. When all else is ruled out, test for Johnes. If contagious Johnes (yoh-knees) is in the herd, the producer has a serious herd-wide problem and needs to cull heavily and immediately.
16) Number of Offspring Born. Some producers cull for single births. Many first-time mothers have singles -- particularly when they are young. It is God's way of protecting their young bodies from too much demand on them. Give the doe a second chance.
This writer finds triplets and quadruplets to be less desirable than singles and twins. Most does struggle to feed three or four kids. Bottle babies are cost- and time-inefficient for meat-goat producers. Twins are the ideal. Studies have revealed that twins bring the most money to the bottom line.
17) Non-pigmented Hairless Skin. If the producer lives in climatic conditions where the sun's rays are very strong, pink skin is prone to melanoma (skin cancer) -- particularly on tail webs. Unless caught very early, skin cancer is impossible to remove. Sometimes it is not cost effective to remove regardless of when discovered.
18) Guard Hair. In very cold climates, guard hair is essential to keep the body warm.
19) Overly Aggressive/Difficult "Keepers." Bucks and does that are overly aggressive are dangerous animals. All goats need a certain level of aggressiveness in order to survive. Outright mean goats will injure or kill other goats in the herd and should be culled. Goats that repeatedly jump fences and gates make the producer's job more difficult and can destroy carefully-established breeding programs.
There are pros and cons to almost all issues involving culling. Each producer must evaluate his own needs and make decisions that fit his goals. ***
Important! Please Read This Notice!
All information provided in these articles is based either on personal experience or information provided by others whose treatments and practices have been discussed fully with a vet for accuracy and effectiveness before passing them on to readers.
In all cases, it is your responsibility to obtain veterinary services and advice before using any of the information provided in these articles. Neither tennesseemeatgoats.com nor any of the contributors to this website will be held responsible for the use of any information contained herein.
The author, Suzanne Gasparotto, hereby grants to local goat publications and club newsletters, permission to reprint articles published on the Onion Creek Ranch website under these conditions: THE ARTICLE MUST BE REPRODUCED IN ITS ENTIRETY AND THE AUTHOR'S NAME, ADDRESS, AND CONTACT INFORMATION MUST BE INCLUDED AT THE BEGINNING OF THE REPRINT. Acknowledgement must also be made that the articles were first published in GOAT RANCHER Magazine, for which Suzanne Gasparotto writes exclusively. We would appreciate notification from any clubs or publications when the articles are used. (A copy of the newsletter or publication would also be a welcome addition to our growing library of goat related information!)

KHIMAIRA FARM
2974 Stonyman Road
Luray VA 22835 USA
540-743-4628 (Voice) 540-743-7932 (Fax)
web@khimairafarm.com (e-mail)
Presented to: Florida Goat Conference June 14, 1997 Linda S. Campbell

CULLING DAIRY GOATS
Culling within your herd is an ongoing process; it never ends. It should start the day you bring home your first goat. Before it can even begin, however, you have to decide upon the goals for your herd. If you have a commercial dairy, good production will be a major requirement. If you are selling fluid milk, then volume will be more important than fat percentages. If the majority of milk is used for cheese production, then fat and protein content will play important roles. Long and even lactations will also yield a higher return for your dairy. Excellent tools for those breeding dairy animals are available through the American Dairy Goat Association. These include the linear appraisal system, official testing (DHIR), sanctioned shows and blood typing (which may soon be replaced with DNA typing as technology changes).
• Is your herd on pasture and traveling many miles to forage? If this is the case, you’ll want a strong emphasis on feet and legs.

• If you only want a family milk supply, you’ll probably be much less demanding that conformation be quite the level required by someone with a breeding operation. Good temperament, however, will probably be an important criterion, especially if young children are spending time with the animals.

• If you are dam raising kids, then a strong mothering instinct will be essential in your selection process.
• Do you want to have a small hobby herd selling foundation stock to other breeders? If this is the case, you’ll probably be inclined to spend more effort on selecting for good type as well as production. If it’s important that you stand at the front of the class in the show ring then a strong mammary will be a definite goal.
What is a cull in one herd might be perfectly acceptable in another. The longer we breed our dairy goats, the more demanding of perfection we can become. At the same time, our goals are likely to change to reflect our level of knowledge or the use of the animal. This experience factor will greatly influence the end result of our culling efforts. Talk with fellow breeders in your area and at shows and seek their opinions.

RECORD KEEPING
In order to determine patterns of problems within the herd, it can be very helpful to keep complete records of animals that have been removed from the herd. An easy summary and overall view of reasons for culling can be seen if a simple chart method of record keeping is used. The pieces of information can be varied according to personal choice, but some items could include:

• Date
• Name
• Tag or ID Number
• Registration Number
• Age when culled

Next we start identifying the reasons for removing the animal:

• Reproductive problems: This can range from infertile animals through difficulty in kidding.
• Production: By using more specific information, this could include low production, low butterfat, high somatic cell count, short lactation.
• Mastitis: If you have cultured the milk to try to determine the causative agent, this could be a very useful item to see if there is some pattern.
• Other Diseases: Specify the problem. Often when an animal goes down in condition from one major problem, stress situations can make the animal susceptible to illnesses such as pneumonia. Try to record primary and secondary causes. When deciding whether or not to cull for particular diseases, consider whether or not the animal will be able to fully recover. For example, sore mouth is a nuisance disease, but once the animal recovers, it basically as no residual or ongoing problems. Caseous lymphadentis, however, is a disease that will cause lingering problems, infect others in the herd, and there’s no permanent cure. You have to decide what you will tolerate.
• Temperament: If the goat is too aggressive or just plain stubborn with an attitude problem, she may be just fine in a very small herd, but a real nuisance in a large herd.
• Structural problems: Using the linear appraisal method of looking at body components can be helpful in identifying specific problems. Maybe the front end assembly is consistently a problem, or perhaps weak pasterns, or postiness. Again, animals that must spend hours foraging will need good feet and legs to live a long and productive life. The animal that barely leaves her pen will not have as much dependence on that area of strength.
• Injury: Sometimes involuntary culling must occur due to accidents. This could range from dog attacks to falling gates or poor fences. If you are seeing consistent specific injuries, you should make management changes to reduce those injuries.
• Finally: take note of where your culls are going. Animals that are culled for poor health or disease should not be passed on to uninformed buyers, but rather sold for meat. When a goat goes through local stock sales, we have little control over how the animal will be used. It seems that the largest majority of goats sold through such operations are health culls. Goats that can’t be a part of a strong show string can still find a good niche as a family milker, and most of those sales can be successfully done in a one on one arrangement.

SUMMARY
So, if you can take some time to identify your goals for your dairy goat operation, you will have taken a major step in progressing towards those goals. Decide what is important to you in your own personal situation. Keep those complete records on the culls you make, and you’ll find that you may be able to identify consistency of problems that you may have missed by relying upon memory or by only noting minimal information.
Remember that culling is necessary and ongoing, and by keeping your goals in mind, you’ll soon find that you’ve make progress in producing the dairy goat that suits your specific purposes and helps you achieve your goals.

Key word: CULL - (Think: Cut Your Losses! )

Culling
Jodie A. Pennington Professor - Dairy
Jeremy Powell Assistant Professor Veterinarian
Culling is essential to the overall productivity of the herd. Goats will be injured, some will not become pregnant during the breeding season and some will produce less milk than you are willing to accept. Some animals become unthrifty and “waste away.” Animals with these symptoms may not have a single disease but a syndrome. Generally, if a goat is well fed and has good teeth and a low parasite load, it should thrive in a sound environment. If it begins “wasting away” and does not respond to antibiotics, it should be culled.
The major causes of this syndrome, in addition to poor nutrition, parasitism and dental problems, are paratuberculosis or Johnes disease caused by Mycobacterium paratuberculosis (contrary to cattle, goats show little or no diarrhea and thickening of the intestinal walls); internal abscesses associated with caseous lymphadenitis due to Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis (ovis) or Corynebacterium pyogenes; locomotor problems (particularly arthritis due to retrovirus infection [CAE virus or caprine arthritis encephalitis]); and any chronic hidden infections (e.g., metritis, peritonitis or respiratory problems). Tumors occur rarely. These diseases are usually not treatable, and many are contagious. Also, the chronic nature of their symptoms make the diseases difficult to diagnose. Culling is the best option for the infected goat in most cases.

MANAGEMENT OF BREEDING BUCKS AND DOES

2009-06-08T14:56:00.000-07:00

Fertility and Sterility in the Buck
Carol RaczykowskiReviewed by Dr. William Holleman
(Reprinted from Pygmy Goat WORLD magazine with permission)
Sterility in the buck is usually the exception rather than the norm and is usually temporary. Male fertility is affected by such things as age, maturity, nutritional status, general health, endocrine balance and normality of sex organs. Sperm quality, nutrition, body weight, maturity, stress, disease, mating frequency, seasonal climatic changes, and management also play roles in male fertility. With so many things affecting fertility, it's a wonder that sterility is rarely a problem.
A buck kid starts mounting behavior as early as one day old. Puberty, the age at which spermatozoa is present in the ejaculate, can vary depending on breed, age and nutrition. Pygmy bucks are capable of breeding as early as 8-12 weeks of age, and they are one of the most outwardly sexually aggressive animals I've treated.
From the time of birth the male body begins to changing to prepare them for this experience. A buck is born with his urethral process and glans penis adhered to the inside of his sheath (prepuce) by the frenulum membrane. This adhesion makes it impossible for the buck to copulate until testosterone (a steroid) and practice mounting frees penis from the prepuce. He will then be able to fully extend his penis and copulate.
As this takes place, the buck kid will start urinating on front legs and beard and develop a strong odor. Part of his odor is due to the urine, but mostly it is a result of the influence of testosterone on the scent glands located near his horns. This behavior and odor make the buck more attractive to females and stimulates their estrus and receptivity.
The blubbering noise and behavior is one of the buck's comical displays. In the early 1990s, someone won $10,000 on the television program, America's Funniest Home Videos showing this behavior.

To a buck, this is serious business. He may paw the ground, wet on his chest and forelegs and exhibit mounting and thrusting behavior. He may nudge the doe and lick her genitalia and smell her urine. This precedes another comical action called flehmen in which the buck raises his head and curls his upper lip in odor detection mode; it looks like he is smiling. All of this usually occurs very quickly with a cooperative doe, and a successful breeding occurs when the buck mounts and ejaculates. Ejaculation is best confirmed by the buck's head jerking back immediately before he dismounts. The doe may react by moving her hindquarters forward, and a drippy discharge can usually be seen coming from her vulva.

To increase the volume of semen and concentration and number of the sperm, you can put the buck on a lead and allow him to make a few false mounts on the doe before he ejaculates. This may not work with all bucks, but it is sometimes done with great success in semen collection.

How the Reproductive System Works
Each intricate part of the buck's reproductive system has one or more function, and every one must operate properly for the whole system to work. The following is a brief description of the major parts and the roles they play.
The major function of the testes is to produce high quality sperm. Muscle contractions help sperm move from the testes into the ductus (or vas) deferens. From there the sperm travel through the abdominal cavity in the ductus deferens to the urethra where it exits the body through the penis. Sperm is stored several paces with various functions. The epidiydymis functions as a maturing station, and sperm are held there for up to 14 days before entering the ductus deferens. During this maturation process, the fertilizing ability and motility of the sperm is increased. When the sperm reaches the ductus deferens, it is mature.

On the sperm's journey various glands add their secretions. The prostate gland's secretion thickens the semen and helps regulate the acid base balance. The vesicular glands add fructose and citric acid to nourish the sperm. The bulbourethral gland secretes liquid that neutralizes the acidic urethra before the sperm travel along it in an ejaculate. After all the ingredients are added the sperm officially becomes semen capable of fertilization.
The penis' S-shaped sigmoid flexure is controlled by contracting muscles and, in turn, so is the erection. Erection is the result of sexual excitement that stimulates blood flow to specific tissues in the penis which increase pressure in the organ and straighten the sigmoid flexture. At the same time, retractor muscles relax and the penis is extended from the sheath. Ejaculation is a nervous system reflex, the result of muscular contractions that begin in the epididymis.
If the buck fails to ejaculate, one of the first things to check for is a condition known as a persistent frenulum. This membrane usually detaches as a buck matures but rarely it does not. To examine a buck for this, he is set on his rump and the sigmoid flexure is pressed from behind to manually extrude his penis. If you are not sure how to do this or what to look for, your veterinarian can help. Simple corrective surgery can fix the problem.
If the buck fails to impregnate does, it's time to investigate with a breeding soundness examination. This is also a good time to check for the presence of extra teats and other hereditary defects, such as hernias and jaw malformations. A buck with any faulty traits or who is hormonally unbalanced should not be used.

The first thing to look for in the physical examination is general health. Does the buck look healthy, including a shiny hair coat, clear eyes and nose? Feet, joints and teeth in good condition? Are his temperature, respiration and pulse normal? Is he too fat or too thin?
The reproductive organs should be examined next. This includes palpation of the testicles for size, symmetry and other normal values, and inspection of the prepuce and penis. The larger the testicles, for a given age, the better the sperm production. Bucks with above average scrotal circumference for their age and birth weight can be expected to produce offspring with earlier sexual maturity and greater fertility. Scrotal circumference can be measured with a measuring tape and then transcribed to a ruler. The measurement should be taken at the widest part of the scrotum with both testes held at the same level. The scrotum should be firmly attached.

The texture of the scrotum is important. Normal testicular tissue should feel resilient and approximately as firm as muscle. Some problems may be associated with texture and size/swelling. For example, testicular atrophy (marked by abnormal spermatozoa) results in elongation or smaller than normal testes. Abnormally small testes may indicate severe malnutrition or an intersex (genetic) condition.

Bucks occasionally get orchitis, an inflammation in one or both testicles. This soft swelling (no heat) is usually physiologically caused and not infectious. This may have something to do with semen storage in the testicles but if it becomes a chronic problem, the testicles may harden and shrink, causing sterility.
Inspect the prepuce and penis for infection or injury. For example, in posthitis (pizzle rot) the prepuce will be inflamed with ulcerations or scabs and accumulation of urine and dirt. These lesions make breeding too painful or physically impossible. It can take a few days to a few weeks to treat this condition before the buck will be willing to breed.

Collection and evaluation of semen is part of a comprehensive breeding soundness exam. The best semen sample comes from using an artificial vagina, versus electroejaculation. Morphology, numbers, motility (movement) and longevity of the sperm are all important. The normal sperm count in a buck is about 2,000 per millileter. Too many malformed sperm indicate poor quality semen. Very young and very old bucks may have more sperm irregularities, as well as those who are deficient in selenium. A densometer can be used to count sperm, but semen color can give you some indication. Thick, milky semen is good. Thin, milky semen is mediocre and clear/amber semen may indicate poor quality. Sperm motility is difficult to check in collection samples. Physiology and biochemistry of the semen is also important. Semen evaluation is best left to a veterinarian or an experienced qualified semen collector/processor.

If he passes the breeding soundness examination with flying colors but he still not settling does, you need to consider other management possibilities. Is he overweight? Obesity definitely plays a big role in fertility. What are you feeding him? Feeds like timothy grass and clover with high estrogen content may suppress the antigens of a buck and in time the testicles may atrophy (shrink) and feel cold. An emaciated buck can become sterile. In either sex, the reproductive system is one of the first functions to shut down during starvation. Excess fat or thinness can be reversed with better management.

Reluctance or inability to mount may be due to painful hind legs, hips, stifles, hocks or feet, and the cause should be defined. Arthritis seems to be fairly common in older stud bucks. Is it due to excessive calcium in the diet or housing on cold, damp, bedding? All possible causes need to be considered. You can use a buck after injury, when he is healed, and if he is able to work, however, if you suspect a structural fault or disease, further use is not be recommended since he may pass these features. It is best to be very discriminate in propagating any negative traits; the buck is the major part of your herd.

A high fever in a buck can render him temporarily or permanently sterile. Sperm is produced at an optimum temperature, and this process is very sensitive to heat. If the temperature is increased dramatically, it affects the testicles and the quality and life span of sperm. A buck regulates the temperature of the scrotum and testes by controlling the distance they are from the body. When it is cold, the dartos muscle contracts to pull the testes closer to the body. When it is hot, the muscle relaxes and allows the testes to hang further from the body. When a buck has a fever it is almost impossible for his body to maintain the proper temperature for sperm production. Very hot weather can also render a buck temporarily sterile. Remember, the sperm in the ejaculate originated 4-6 weeks ago; what he produces today is a result of what happened way back then. This is an important fact to remember when you are looking for answers to a sterility problem or planning ahead for breeding.. Think in terms of more than just the last several weeks.

Infection may be another cause for sterility. If the penile sheath is injured it is vulnerable to infection. If the sheath is allowed to accumulate sebum (fatty secretion of the sebaceous glands) he may transmit coital vesicular exanthema which creates small ulcers on and around the vulva of the doe. For this and other reasons, cleanliness of the buck is very important, especially in a buck that is used heavily on a large variety of does from a number of herds. In heavy use, the buck's penis should be washed several times a month. The penis can be washed with soapy water, or a 1:5,000 dilution of Nolvasan™. Good hygiene can eliminate several problems that may eventually cause sterility.

Stones can become blocked in the urethra, causing sterility and sometimes death. When a buck or wether has a dietary imbalance of calcium and phosphorus, stones form in the bladder and move through the urethra. The urethra and ductus deferens join near the urinary bladder, so if the urethra is blocked neither sperm or urine will be able to exit the body. This is fairly common in wethers or bucks that are fed too much grain. Partial blockage is also possible. Treatment for this is difficult at best.

Other factors affecting sterility are anatomical defects, and other injuries and diseases. Scrotal hernias are seen in sheep and are presumed hereditary in that species. If a hernia (distention of one side of the scrotum with a movable loop of intestine) is identified and surgical correction is desired, the buck should be castrated.

Injuries or wounds involving the scrotum may result in purulent orchitis or periorchitis. Other causes of scrotal dermatitis include mange, bacterial infections, zinc deficiency and frost bite. Many different types of injuries may take place if two bucks are allowed to be in the same area while one is breeding; common ones are a broken penis and a broken leg.

Sperm granulomas are strongly correlated with the homozygous polled condition and can be avoided by culling all young bucks that are, by phenotype, homozygous for the polled gene. This condition is virtually unknown in the Pygmy, as it is a disqualifying fault in their Breed Standard. Another rarity is the protozoan parasite, Trichomonas. This protozoa has been observed in the semen of Alpine and Saanen bucks in France and Sardinia and in Angoras in South Africa. It infests the sheath and urethra of the buck, causing the quantity and quality of ejaculates, as well as libido, to decrease.
Testicular tumors in goats are rare but do occur.
It is possible to overwork a buck, especially when it is undernourished. Special attention should be given to the breeding buck's nutrition. Many bucks ignore their food during breeding season while increasing physical activity and the attentive owner should vary the diet to tempt him to eat.

A frequently used buck will also be less fertile per doe than a buck that has rest periods between services. After around 3 ejaculations the sperm count is reduced, and after 7 ejaculations the buck produces immature sperm that are incapable of fertilization. Overuse can be hard to determine since bucks can settle a hundred or more does in one season, depending on his condition, nutritional level and general health. It is better to err on the conservative side.

Genetics, nutrition, sanitation and other good management practices play important roles in the buck's life.
From birth a buck's body prepares itself for its main function - breeding. It's up to you to make sure that the things you can control, like proper nutrition and a positive environment, are in his favor. After all, he is the single most important ingredients in your breeding program.***

GETTING YOUR BUCKS READY
FOR THE NEXT BREEDING SEASONCarol J. Spencer, Foxmoor Farm, Silverton, OR

August has come with its lovely warm and sunny weather, but the signs are there that fall is just around the corner. The goats are enjoying a needed time of rest and relaxation and this year the pastures were tall with grass, so they still have lots to eat without having to have extra supplements.
The cool nights have started the cashmere to grow and the herd bucks are becoming aggressive with each other; snorting and wetting on their legs and beards. So before they get too aromatic it’s time to catch them up for a once over to make sure they are healthy and in condition.

Mature bucks can be a handful. At this time of year they seem to be very macho with their horns, so we find it easiest to put both a halter and a collar on them. Then they are tied to the fence and a double snap is fastened to the collar.
Then we give a worming drench, shots of selenium and Covexin 8 (CDT), trim the hooves, tail and sheath hair.
Male feet are huge and heavy, so I do them same as horses. Bending the front feet and resting it on your knee; gives the animal stability. The back feet are straddled and put between your legs; this keeps them from kicking, your back is against the back of the goat.
Since I hand comb, any goats with long guard hair are given a short trim, using a small portable show shear which is so quiet the boys don’t mind it. Now that their coat is short, they are sprayed with a dog coat conditioner containing mink oil, then dusted with 5% Seven, (insecticide dust for your garden).
This not only keeps lice away but helps with the flies and gnats, which are plentiful now in the pasture.
The finishing touch is bag balm on knee pads, bottom of testicles, and horns. These get very dry from the sun.

Lots of work – yes! But remember the male gives you one half of what your kid crop and cashmere quality will be like. Even more if you line breed. This year I have great granddaughters being mated to their grandfather.

Now that the handsome bucks are groomed, they are given individual pens where they will wait for the does selected for them, with hope of a nice crop in February.***

BUCK HOUSING AND MANAGEMENT
Suzanne W. Gasparotto
HC 70 Box 70
Lohn, TX 76852
Phone 325/344-5775

Male goats have one purpose in life -- breeding. The instinct to reproduce is stronger than anything else -- even eating; bucks will often go off-feed when in rut. Producers should give much thought and preparation into buck housing, pasturing, and overall management. A primary consideration is good fencing. Good fences make good neighbors -- and prevent unplanned pregnancies -- by keeping does and bucks apart.

Do not pen or pasture bucks across a common fence from breeding-age does. Typical goat (or *field*) fencing will not prevent through-the-fence breeding. Don't depend upon gate chains or latches to keep does and bucks apart; wire gates shut and check them regularly. Rutting bucks and flagging does have been known to literally lift gates off hinges and "make a party." Does who get bred under such circumstances are known at Onion Creek Ranch as "party girls." Despite all our efforts, one or two does a year manages this feat.

The solution at Onion Creek Ranch has been to create a center alley 25 feet wide, with large paddocks to the left and right of it. Bucks are pastured on one side of the alley; does, on the other side. This of course means that bucks are up against other bucks during rutting season, so pasture fencing has been paneled over with 20 ft long by 4 ft high six-gauge "cattle panels" of 4" x 4" squares -- and they still beat up the fencing, but it contains them.
Polled (born without horns) bucks are pastured separately from horned bucks. When rutting season arrives in Texas' hot climate, bucks in a given pasture will select a buck to chase, harrass, mount, and generally treat as if he is a desired mate as they practice breeding techniques. If polled bucks are penned with horned bucks, that sought-after male is usually the less aggressive polled buck. Horns serve as radiators for removing heat from the goat's body. Polled bucks by definition have no radiators. This writer has lost two terrific polled bucks to death from heat stroke thanks to sexual harassment by multiple horned males.

At Onion Creek Ranch, there are three buck pastures. The old bucks (over eight years of age) are pastured together. Bucks 18-24 months old to eight years of age occupy another paddock. Males less than 18 months of age live in a third pasture. Since separate space for polled bucks usually isn't available, they are pastured with the youngest group of bucks over whom they can exert dominance.

When moving bucks into buck paddocks, the producer should be prepared for male-on-male activity to establish the new members' places in the pecking order. Goats are serious herd animals and have a fairly rigid pecking order within each herd. Minimize the problems that these actions will cause by (1) never introducing a single buck into a new herd; (2) taking climate/weather into consideration and moving them during the most favorable time of the day (coolest in hot climates and warmest in very cold climates, never during rain or snowstorms, etc.); and (3) penning bucks with other males of similar size and age. Example: Remove bucks from breeding pens and house two or more together for at least a week so that they can form their own mini-herd before moving them to the larger buck pasture. Think like a goat; both you and your goats will be less stressed.***

Breeding Management
Linda I. Spahr
York County Extension Agent

In the competitive world of market goats, good management cannot be stressed enough. A few does here or there not getting bred may not seem like an issue, but keep in mind that an open doe represents money spent without any return. There are several factors that will affect the breeding status of your does. There will always be those few does that you never see in heat or that never seem to get bred. They need to be culled; no excuses.
In this section we have discussed buck goat soundness, a very important part of the breeding equation. Lame or sick bucks don't breed does. It's time to look at factors that affect breeding from the female side of the equation.

Breeding Management
Doe goats of breeding age should be considered production units. Costs incurred by maintaining or supplementing this unit must be balanced by a return in the form of live, salable product. In other words if you have to feed more feed, call the vet more often or give more medicine, you have to be able to produce more live kids to balance the check book.

Flushing your does is one supplemental cost that should balance by producing more live kids.
Female goats are for the most part, easy to spot when they are in heat. An observant manager should be able to identify most does in heat by observing the females a few times a day. There are does that are nearly silent in their heat periods. Even the most observant managers may not be able to identify does in "silent" heat.

Goats are for the most part seasonal breeders. This means that they do not exhibit heat or periods of estrus year round. Most goats are fall breeders and will come into heat during the months of September thru February. Does experience estrus or come into heat about every 18-22 days during that period.
Does in heat will usually display several signs to let you and the buck know that they are ready to breed. The doe will bleat as if hungry or in pain, driving your close neighbors crazy. She will usually wag her tail from side to side constantly. In most does the vulva will swell slightly and appear reddened. Some does will have a discharge from the vulva that can make the tail look wet or dirty. Does will often refuse feed or will decrease their consumption of feed. You may notice your nannies urinating more frequently as they try to let the buck know they are interested.

If you have a group of nannies that don't seem to show many signs of heat, it may be necessary to bring an old, smelly buck into fence line contact to force them to display. When a buck has been introduced into the pasture next door the does will tend to pace back and forth along the fence or stand backed up to the fence, allowing the buck to smell them. Many times one doe in heat will cause other does to exhibit heat as well. Most folks who don't observe signs of heat in their nannies usually only have one or two does. These small producers will need to be very observant of any display of heat their nannies may exhibit. I like to mark the calendar when I observe a doe displaying unusual behavior. Eighteen to twenty-two days later, I can usually count on a repeat of the behavior, a good indication she is in heat.
The period of estrus or heat in your goats will usually last between 12 and 48 hours. This period is referred to as "standing heat". Ovulation in the female occurs 12 to 36 hours after the onset of standing heat. If there is a discharge from the doe's vulva during the heat period, it will begin as a clear, sticky substance and become white toward the end of the heat period.
It is not a good idea to leave the buck in with the does for the entire breeding season. When the newness of a buck in the pasture has worn off the does become so familiar with the buck that they will not allow him to mount. As the newness wears off the buck tends to get lazy and the manager assumes all of the does are bred.
Turning your buck in with your does for about 45 days will cover two complete heat cycles and should be long enough to settle your does. Bucks in good condition should be able to service 20 to 30 does.

Prepare for breeding season by trimming feet, deworming, and vaccinating. You will need to make sure that your does are ready for the breeding season by worming them, trimming hooves and vaccinating the females. Vaccinations should be done before the start of breeding season and then again 4 to 6 weeks before the first expected kidding date. If you are planning to give your does one booster vaccination, it's best to wait until 4 to 6 weeks before kidding. The vaccination before kidding will allow some immunity to be passed to the newborn kid. Most producers use Clostridium Perfringens Types C & D + Tetanus toxoid vaccine. This vaccine is marketed by a variety of companies and each company calls the vaccine something different. One common brand name is Bar Vac CD/T. This particular vaccine sells for about $8.00 for a 50 ml bottle. This 50 ml bottle will give you 25/2 cc doses of vaccine. This vaccine is a fairly inexpensive way to provide protection for your herd.

Feet should be trimmed on the nannies as well as the buck before breeding season. Check for any sores or infections in the feet and legs. Nannies with sore feet may not stand for a buck or may get pushed away from feed at a critical time. Goats should also be wormed before they are bred. Nannies with a high worm load will not gain the weight necessary to make the flushing process effective. Goats should be wormed before the flushing begins.

One last thing you need to keep in mind as you plan your breeding season is general goat behavior. Goats establish a pecking order. If this order is disrupted by moving or regrouping, you will need to allow enough time for a new pecking order to be established before beginning breeding season. Pecking orders usually take 2 to 3 weeks to establish and may vary with the number and temperament of individual does.
Production managers need to be sure they do not breed does at too young an age. There are two schools of thought on this subject. There are those who will breed a female goat as soon as she is 7 to 10 months old, regardless of size and weight. A better practice is to use the mature estimated body weight as a guide when deciding to breed. A doe kid should be at 70 to 75% of her mature weight before breeding. In other words if you expect a doe to mature at 100 pounds you could breed her if she weighed between 70 and 75 pounds. Small doe kids tend to be less productive and they will never reach their potential weight if bred too early.***

Meat Goat Breeds, Breeding Management, and
4-H Market Goat Management
Bagley, MN January 28, 2006
Doug Thompson
Improvement Potential - Goats have some great advantages over cattle in terms of potential for improvement through a breeding program. First, does can be bred and bucks can be working in their first year, generally at 6-8 months so you can get a sense of improvement through breeding within the first year or year and a half. Second, with multiple births you have more animals to select from in choosing which stock you are going to keep to use in the future. These factors alone are said to account for an improvement potential at a rate four times faster than one could expect with cattle.

Reproductive Characteristics – Goats are
generally seasonal breeders though this varies
from breed to breed, between individuals, and differs from one climate to another.
Shortening day length in the fall, which sets up a yearlong cycle of reproduction, triggers their breeding season. Generally, does will come into estrus or heat for a two to three day period every 18-21 days in the fall until settled. The day-length trigger can be manipulated by putting goats artificial darkness or artificial light to promote off season breeding, which can be an advantage in timing the markets at some point down the line.

If this were used, the bucks would also have to be subjected to the same light manipulation since they have a specific rutting season from early fall through early winter. Hormone treatment is also widely used in other parts of the world, at least for
dairy goats, to get off-season breeding and ensure a more uniform milk supply through the year. There are some breeders that would try to work in two breeding in three years, which is possible.

Breeding Management - Important to any breeding program is proper nutrition and health management.
Does can be “flushed” with “improved” nutrition two weeks prior to the breeding season and lasting five weeks in order to increase egg release in increase kidding percentage. On the other hand, too high a plane of nutrition for too long, especially with high quality alfalfa hay can delay the onset of estrus in an entire herd of does.

Goat bucks are one of the most accursed animals on earth when it comes to breeding season. They become extremely aggressive and will expend an enormous amount of energy whether or not they are with does, so their nutrition has to lead that effort.
To understand that imperative, one has to picture a native herd of does in the wild with a dominant herd sire having to defend a harem of 30-40 does from younger bucks surrounding the harem and continually testing the dominant male. Aggressive behavior is the name of the game and it carries through today.

In dairy goats, small breeders tend to keep far too many bucks. So much so, that it has been light-heartedly suggested that dairy goats in the US are monogamous breeds. Of course, they are in fact polygamous and a mature buck can handle 30-40 does. Younger bucks would be at a ratio at least half of that.

Following breeding, to narrow the kidding season, you may want to remove the buck from the does. This certainly won’t make the buck happy. Bucks with does, unchallenged by other bucks, can become quite docile and live a “normal” existence, even in the breeding season.
Generally, you can cut back on the doe’s ration to a maintenance level. In fact, it has been suggested that a higher amount of fiber and roughage at this point in the reproductive cycle is important in conditioning the rumen of the doe, so she is ready to efficiently consume more of the higher protein rations as she goes into milk production.

The last two months of the 5-month gestation are the most important in
resuming a higher plane of nutrition, since that is when the most growth of the fetus occurs and when the doe is gearing up for milk production.***
Fertility and Sterility in the Buck
Carol Raczykowski
Reviewed by Dr. William Holleman
(Reprinted from Pygmy Goat WORLD magazine with permission)

Sterility in the buck is usually the exception rather than the norm and is usually temporary. Male fertility is affected by such things as age, maturity, nutritional status, general health, endocrine balance and normality of sex organs. Sperm quality, nutrition, body weight, maturity, stress, disease, mating frequency, seasonal climatic changes, and management also play roles in male fertility. With so many things affecting fertility, it's a wonder that sterility is rarely a problem.
A buck kid starts mounting behavior as early as one day old. Puberty, the age at which spermatozoa is present in the ejaculate, can vary depending on breed, age and nutrition. Pygmy bucks are capable of breeding as early as 8-12 weeks of age, and they are one of the most outwardly sexually aggressive animals I've treated.

From the time of birth the male body begins to changing to prepare them for this experience. A buck is born with his urethral process and glans penis adhered to the inside of his sheath (prepuce) by the frenulum membrane. This adhesion makes it impossible for the buck to copulate until testosterone (a steroid) and practice mounting frees penis from the prepuce. He will then be able to fully extend his penis and copulate.

As this takes place, the buck kid will start urinating on front legs and beard and develop a strong odor. Part of his odor is due to the urine, but mostly it is a result of the influence of testosterone on the scent glands located near his horns. This behavior and odor make the buck more attractive to females and stimulates their estrus and receptivity.
The blubbering noise and behavior is one of the buck's comical displays. In the early 1990s, someone won $10,000 on the television program, America's Funniest Home Videos showing this behavior.
To a buck, this is serious business. He may paw the ground, wet on his chest and forelegs and exhibit mounting and thrusting behavior. He may nudge the doe and lick her genitalia and smell her urine. This precedes another comical action called flehmen in which the buck raises his head and curls his upper lip in odor detection mode; it looks like he is smiling. All of this usually occurs very quickly with a cooperative doe, and a successful breeding occurs when the buck mounts and ejaculates. Ejaculation is best confirmed by the buck's head jerking back immediately before he dismounts. The doe may react by moving her hindquarters forward, and a drippy discharge can usually be seen coming from her vulva.

To increase the volume of semen and concentration and number of the sperm, you can put the buck on a lead and allow him to make a few false mounts on the doe before he ejaculates. This may not work with all bucks, but it is sometimes done with great success in semen collection.
How the Reproductive System Works
Each intricate part of the buck's reproductive system has one or more function, and every one must operate properly for the whole system to work. The following is a brief description of the major parts and the roles they play.
The major function of the testes is to produce high quality sperm. Muscle contractions help sperm move from the testes into the ductus (or vas) deferens. From there the sperm travel through the abdominal cavity in the ductus deferens to the urethra where it exits the body through the penis. Sperm is stored several paces with various functions. The epidiydymis functions as a maturing station, and sperm are held there for up to 14 days before entering the ductus deferens. During this maturation process, the fertilizing ability and motility of the sperm is increased. When the sperm reaches the ductus deferens, it is mature.
On the sperm's journey various glands add their secretions. The prostate gland's secretion thickens the semen and helps regulate the acid base balance. The vesicular glands add fructose and citric acid to nourish the sperm. The bulbourethral gland secretes liquid that neutralizes the acidic urethra before the sperm travel along it in an ejaculate. After all the ingredients are added the sperm officially becomes semen capable of fertilization.
The penis' S-shaped sigmoid flexure is controlled by contracting muscles and, in turn, so is the erection. Erection is the result of sexual excitement that stimulates blood flow to specific tissues in the penis which increase pressure in the organ and straighten the sigmoid flexture. At the same time, retractor muscles relax and the penis is extended from the sheath. Ejaculation is a nervous system reflex, the result of muscular contractions that begin in the epididymis.
If the buck fails to ejaculate, one of the first things to check for is a condition known as a persistent frenulum. This membrane usually detaches as a buck matures but rarely it does not. To examine a buck for this, he is set on his rump and the sigmoid flexure is pressed from behind to manually extrude his penis. If you are not sure how to do this or what to look for, your veterinarian can help. Simple corrective surgery can fix the problem.

If the buck fails to impregnate does, it's time to investigate with a breeding soundness examination. This is also a good time to check for the presence of extra teats and other hereditary defects, such as hernias and jaw malformations. A buck with any faulty traits or who is hormonally unbalanced should not be used.

The first thing to look for in the physical examination is general health. Does the buck look healthy, including a shiny hair coat, clear eyes and nose? Feet, joints and teeth in good condition? Are his temperature, respiration and pulse normal? Is he too fat or too thin?

The reproductive organs should be examined next. This includes palpation of the testicles for size, symmetry and other normal values, and inspection of the prepuce and penis. The larger the testicles, for a given age, the better the sperm production. Bucks with above average scrotal circumference for their age and birth weight can be expected to produce offspring with earlier sexual maturity and greater fertility. Scrotal circumference can be measured with a measuring tape and then transcribed to a ruler. The measurement should be taken at the widest part of the scrotum with both testes held at the same level. The scrotum should be firmly attached.
The texture of the scrotum is important. Normal testicular tissue should feel resilient and approximately as firm as muscle. Some problems may be associated with texture and size/swelling. For example, testicular atrophy (marked by abnormal spermatozoa) results in elongation or smaller than normal testes. Abnormally small testes may indicate severe malnutrition or an intersex (genetic) condition.
Bucks occasionally get orchitis, an inflammation in one or both testicles. This soft swelling (no heat) is usually physiologically caused and not infectious. This may have something to do with semen storage in the testicles but if it becomes a chronic problem, the testicles may harden and shrink, causing sterility.
Inspect the prepuce and penis for infection or injury. For example, in posthitis (pizzle rot) the prepuce will be inflamed with ulcerations or scabs and accumulation of urine and dirt. These lesions make breeding too painful or physically impossible. It can take a few days to a few weeks to treat this condition before the buck will be willing to breed.
Collection and evaluation of semen is part of a comprehensive breeding soundness exam. The best semen sample comes from using an artificial vagina, versus electroejaculation. Morphology, numbers, motility (movement) and longevity of the sperm are all important. The normal sperm count in a buck is about 2,000 per millileter. Too many malformed sperm indicate poor quality semen. Very young and very old bucks may have more sperm irregularities, as well as those who are deficient in selenium. A densometer can be used to count sperm, but semen color can give you some indication. Thick, milky semen is good. Thin, milky semen is mediocre and clear/amber semen may indicate poor quality. Sperm motility is difficult to check in collection samples. Physiology and biochemistry of the semen is also important. Semen evaluation is best left to a veterinarian or an experienced qualified semen collector/processor.

If he passes the breeding soundness examination with flying colors but he still not settling does, you need to consider other management possibilities. Is he overweight? Obesity definitely plays a big role in fertility. What are you feeding him? Feeds like timothy grass and clover with high estrogen content may suppress the antigens of a buck and in time the testicles may atrophy (shrink) and feel cold. An emaciated buck can become sterile. In either sex, the reproductive system is one of the first functions to shut down during starvation. Excess fat or thinness can be reversed with better management.

Reluctance or inability to mount may be due to painful hind legs, hips, stifles, hocks or feet, and the cause should be defined. Arthritis seems to be fairly common in older stud bucks. Is it due to excessive calcium in the diet or housing on cold, damp, bedding? All possible causes need to be considered. You can use a buck after injury, when he is healed, and if he is able to work, however, if you suspect a structural fault or disease, further use is not be recommended since he may pass these features. It is best to be very discriminate in propagating any negative traits; the buck is the major part of your herd.

A high fever in a buck can render him temporarily or permanently sterile. Sperm is produced at an optimum temperature, and this process is very sensitive to heat. If the temperature is increased dramatically, it affects the testicles and the quality and life span of sperm. A buck regulates the temperature of the scrotum and testes by controlling the distance they are from the body. When it is cold, the dartos muscle contracts to pull the testes closer to the body. When it is hot, the muscle relaxes and allows the testes to hang further from the body. When a buck has a fever it is almost impossible for his body to maintain the proper temperature for sperm production. Very hot weather can also render a buck temporarily sterile. Remember, the sperm in the ejaculate originated 4-6 weeks ago; what he produces today is a result of what happened way back then. This is an important fact to remember when you are looking for answers to a sterility problem or planning ahead for breeding.. Think in terms of more than just the last several weeks.
Infection may be another cause for sterility. If the penile sheath is injured it is vulnerable to infection. If the sheath is allowed to accumulate sebum (fatty secretion of the sebaceous glands) he may transmit coital vesicular exanthema which creates small ulcers on and around the vulva of the doe. For this and other reasons, cleanliness of the buck is very important, especially in a buck that is used heavily on a large variety of does from a number of herds. In heavy use, the buck's penis should be washed several times a month. The penis can be washed with soapy water, or a 1:5,000 dilution of Nolvasan™. Good hygiene can eliminate several problems that may eventually cause sterility.
Stones can become blocked in the urethra, causing sterility and sometimes death. When a buck or wether has a dietary imbalance of calcium and phosphorus, stones form in the bladder and move through the urethra. The urethra and ductus deferens join near the urinary bladder, so if the urethra is blocked neither sperm or urine will be able to exit the body. This is fairly common in wethers or bucks that are fed too much grain. Partial blockage is also possible. Treatment for this is difficult at best.

Other factors affecting sterility are anatomical defects, and other injuries and diseases. Scrotal hernias are seen in sheep and are presumed hereditary in that species. If a hernia (distention of one side of the scrotum with a movable loop of intestine) is identified and surgical correction is desired, the buck should be castrated.

Injuries or wounds involving the scrotum may result in purulent orchitis or periorchitis. Other causes of scrotal dermatitis include mange, bacterial infections, zinc deficiency and frost bite. Many different types of injuries may take place if two bucks are allowed to be in the same area while one is breeding; common ones are a broken penis and a broken leg.

Sperm granulomas are strongly correlated with the homozygous polled condition and can be avoided by culling all young bucks that are, by phenotype, homozygous for the polled gene. This condition is virtually unknown in the Pygmy, as it is a disqualifying fault in their Breed Standard. Another rarity is the protozoan parasite, Trichomonas. This protozoa has been observed in the semen of Alpine and Saanen bucks in France and Sardinia and in Angoras in South Africa. It infests the sheath and urethra of the buck, causing the quantity and quality of ejaculates, as well as libido, to decrease.

Testicular tumors in goats are rare but do occur.
It is possible to overwork a buck, especially when it is undernourished. Special attention should be given to the breeding buck's nutrition. Many bucks ignore their food during breeding season while increasing physical activity and the attentive owner should vary the diet to tempt him to eat.

A frequently used buck will also be less fertile per doe than a buck that has rest periods between services. After around 3 ejaculations the sperm count is reduced, and after 7 ejaculations the buck produces immature sperm that are incapable of fertilization. Overuse can be hard to determine since bucks can settle a hundred or more does in one season, depending on his condition, nutritional level and general health. It is better to err on the conservative side.

Genetics, nutrition, sanitation and other good management practices play important roles in the buck's life.
From birth a buck's body prepares itself for its main function - breeding. It's up to you to make sure that the things you can control, like proper nutrition and a positive environment, are in his favor. After all, he is the single most important ingredients in your breeding program.***
NEW BUCK BUYER
byMarvin Shurley
For The American Meat Goat Association

Select a herd sire with the utmost care and attention.
With all the new producers getting into the meat goat industry there are many questions being asked as to what breed of goats they should consider buying. There are many breeds and it really falls back on the producer to select what fits their individual taste in size, temperament, type, color, horned, polled, etc. A person would also be wise to investigate the local markets to see what sells for a premium in their area as this varies greatly across the U.S. due mainly to local ethnic influences.

Once a person has decided which type and breed of goat fits their individual needs as determined by independent research, then comes the time to purchase or trade for animals. At this time, if the potential producer is inexperienced in livestock, they would do well to enlist the aid of a knowledgeable "goat person" to aid them in selection. Be sure to let them know exactly what you want. Should you be able to find these exact animals, be prepared to pay a fair to premium price to fill your pens with your special goats.
Now that we've addressed some preliminary considerations to getting into goats, I'll get into the main purpose of this article. This is to admonish the newcomer to select their herd sire with the utmost care and attention. The reason for this is the fact that no other goat that you purchase will have as great an influence on your future in the industry as will the buck you purchase to service your does.

The producer knows what breed they want by now and so we go into selection. A very good suggestion at this time would be for the buyer to attend some breeding goat shows (if possible) which are being held for the specific breed that they are interested in. This is important because some of the finest representatives of any breed will always be present at theses events. Also this can give a person an idea as to what direction and phenotype (visual appearance) to breed towards should they be interested in the show segment of the meat goat, dairy goat, or fiber goat industry. Also at these shows they should have the opportunity to meet persons who are currently engaged in breeding the specific animals they are interested in. Industry publications are also an excellent source for names, addresses, and phone numbers of individual producers. After awhile the newcomer will begin to recognize names of some of the premier producers for the breed that they are interested in.
Now we contact the breeder whose animals best represent what we are looking for. Most of them will be happy to tell you what they have for sale, and the approximate prices for their animals. Having now gotten this far it is now time to make an appointment with the owner to view them. Please do this as far in advance as possible as most breeders are extremely busy people and will need some time to make sure their goats are available for viewing. You can't just drive up unannounced at many places and expect them to drop what they have going at that time; some may, but many won't.

Through your research you had already narrowed down your selections, but please remember not to be pressured into buying an animal not up to your standards. If you don't see what you want, thank them for their time and extend your search. No conscientious breeder will take offense if you are polite and explain your position. I wish to again remind you of your position; you are searching for the most important component of your future breeding program.
When you discover an animal you're interested in, attempt to find out all you can about him. Such as his birth rank; was he a single, twin, or triplet, or possibly a quadruplet. What was his birth weight? What was the animals average daily gain, weaning weight, and if an older animal, mature weight? If his sire and dam are on the premises ask to see them. If he is an older buck check to see if there are any of his offspring where you can see them.

While this article doesn't cover every aspect , I hope that it sheds some light on the buck selection process for our novice goat producer.

Mr. Shurley can be contacted at marvin@sonoratx.net
This article first appeared in Meat Goat News, a RRL Publication, in the March 1999 issue.Reprinted with permission of the author.

Conformation Traits For Breeding Bucks

A bucks main function in a profitable breeding operation is to get a high proportion of does bred early, during a mating period of six weeks or less. To achieve this bucks must be sound for breeding, they must be willing and able to serve a high percentage of does in heat and they must be free of any abnormalities of the penis, testicles, feet and legs.

Almost all bucks that are unsound for breeding can be detected during an examination for breeding soundness. This consists of a physical examination of testicles, legs and feet and a serving capacity test to measure a bucks serving capacity and to detect penis abnormalities and signs of arthritis.

The circumference of the scrotum is the best indicator of testicle size. The head and tail of the epididymis, which are the storage areas on the top and bottom of each testicle, are also examined for abnormalities.

The legs of a buck have a number of functions. Of these walking and load bearing are the most obvious, but all limbs need to be efficient shock absorbers as well. Hip arthritis, hock, knee, fetlock and stifle arthritis will effect a bucks breeding soundness. The hind leg has a weight bearing and propulsion role in mounting a doe. Bones of the hind leg are set at an angle so that the muscles, tendons and ligaments can assist the bones and joints in absorbing the concussion that results when the buck places its weight on the hindquarters, whether standing, walking or serving a doe.

Walking pattern viewed from behind a buck should pull his hind legs through, parallel to the direction of movement as he walks. He should not throw his legs inward or outward and the hind hoof should land in the print left by the front hoof. Post-legged and lame animals usually step short, whereas sickle-hocked animals commonly overstep, sometimes leading to stone damage of the pastern or dewclaw.

Preparing Bucks for the Breeding Season
By Jackie Nix

Let's face it. No one likes to handle bucks, myself included. They're big, smelly and strong. For this reason they are often overlooked in herd management. However, the male is vitally important. If a buck is not reproductively sound, the kidding rate will be reduced drastically and profits will be similarly affected. Therefore, in preparation for the breeding season, bucks should receive a little extra attention prior to being turned out with the does including: good nutrition, disease and parasite control, a breeding soundness exam, foot care and a general physical eamination.

Nutrition
It is very important that bucks be in good physical condition prior to the breeding season, but not too fat. An active buck with a high libido (sex drive) can literally forget to eat during the breeding season. An adult buck can be left thin but a yearling buck can actually be stunted permanently. A young buck needs nutrients not only for semen production and mating but also for his own body growth. It takes about 60 days for spermatozoa to form and mature inside the buck's reproductive tract. Therefore, it is vital that bucks receive adequate nutrition prior to as well as during the breeding season for optimum performance. If your pasture conditions are not adequate right now, you may want to consider a protein supplement to make sure that bucks are in peak condition going into the breeding season. This is especially true for young, immature bucks that are still growing. There are many commercial protein supplement products available including the Sweetlix 20% All Natural protein block formulated especially for goats. Choose the supplement option that works best for you.
Every goat producer should have a working knowledge of the nutritional needs of their animals. While the purpose of this article is not to teach ration balancing, on average a buck will require roughly 5% of his body weight in dry matter intake (the weight of the feed with all water removed) per day. For example, a 200-pound buck will eat 10 pounds of dry matter feed per day. If he is receiving hay that has a dry matter content of 80% (20% moisture), he will then consume 12.5 pounds of hay per day on an as fed basis (10 lbs./0.80 = 12.5 lbs.). An average meat or fiber producing buck will require 60% TDN (total digestible nutrients), 11% protein, 0.4% calcium and 0.2% phosphorus in his total diet. It is important to make sure that the calcium to phosphorus ratio is at least 2:1 to prevent urinary calculi formation. It is also important to point out that these nutritional requirements will vary according to age, breed of goat, activity level, desired weight gain, and other factors. Please consult a nutritionist, Cooperative Extension agent or veterinarian to formulate a ration according to the specific needs of your herd.

Disease and Parasite ControlDisease and heavy parasitic infections will also reduce a buck's sexual performance. Here are some steps that you can follow to control disease and parasites.
Follow a preventative program for internal and external parasites dictated by your local conditions.

Promptly treat any animals showing signs of infection.
Isolate new animals and animals returning from shows for a period of 30 days before adding or returning to the herd.

Vaccinate bucks for enterotoxemia and tetanus whenever does are vaccinated.
Be sure to have a postmortem examination (necropsy) performed for all suspicious deaths. In most states, the Dept. of Agriculture provides a service of free necropsies on livestock in state-run laboratories. Contact the Dept. of Agriculture in your state to receive more information about this service.

Breeding Soundness ExamBefore going on a long trip you probably give your car a tune-up and make sure that all the important parts are functioning correctly. The same concept applies for your bucks. You should physically examine all bucks prior to the breeding season each year to make sure that all "important parts" are functioning correctly. Just because a buck was sound a year ago doesn't mean that he's sound today!

You can begin by carefully examining the penis and prepuce (sheath). To do this, sit the buck on its rump with its back to you (as if you were going to shear him). Then gently push the prepuce down to reveal the penis. If the penis does not appear, gentle forward pressure in the area behind the scrotum will place pressure on the sigmoid flexure and thus protrude the penis. When inspecting, make sure that the penis and prepuce are not adhered together. Next check the penis for sores or cuts. Also feel the pizzle (thin process on the end of the penis) to make sure that no urinary stones are lodged there. Next visually feel the testes. Make sure that they are cool to the touch (heat may indicate a possible infection), roughly the same size, firm to the touch (not too hard or soft), and have no unusual lumps. If abnormalities are detected in the testes, the semen should be evaluated by a veterinarian or reproductive physiologist before allowing the buck to breed does.
Foot CareBucks should receive hoof trimming and an examination of their conformation prior to the breeding season. Foot care is very important since problems will hinder the buck from actively seeking out does and mounting them. Bucks who find it painful to walk or mount will be reluctant to ejaculate even if they do attempt to mount. Possible causes of feet and leg problems include foot rot, overgrown hooves, improper foot trimmings, injury, or CAE.
While you are handling the buck, check his eyes as well. Bucks rely on sight to find does in heat in a large pasture setting, so make sure that the buck's vision is not impaired by cataracts, pink eye, excessive hair or other causes.
In summary, it is of vital importance that bucks be reproductively sound prior to the breeding season. One can prepare bucks for the breeding season with good nutrition; regular health care and frequent foot care. Other precautions include breeding soundness examinations and general physical examinations prior to turning bucks out with does. If forage conditions in late summer are poor, you may want to consider supplementation to ensure optimum spermatozoa production in your bucks, especially for young, growing bucks.

Jackie Nix is a nutritionist with Sweetlix Livestock Supplement Systems and an authority on goat production. You can contact her at jnix@sweetlix or 1-800-325-1486 to ask questions or to receive more information about the Sweetlix line of supplement products for goats. ***

SHOW TIME

2009-06-08T14:48:00.000-07:00

Show Preparation
Mississippi State University Extension Service

Some people are natural showmen, but all exhibitors can learn ways to improve their showmanship skills. Showmanship is the one area of livestock exhibition that gives the exhibitor greatest control of the results.
A good showman has a sense for effectively showing an animal. In meat goat showmanship you will be judged on your ability to control and present the goat to bring out its best characteristics.

Meat goat showmanship can teach many valuable lessons to be used in daily life. These lessons include responsibility and learning how to work to reach a goal. This in turn builds character and increases confidence. You can learn outstanding showmanship skills with hours of practice at home. Advanced planning, practice, and hard work are keys to becoming a good show person.

Training
The time needed to train a goat for show depends on the goat, the size and experience of the
exhibitor, and the intensity of training. Some goats are easy to gentle and train for show, while
other goats are difficult and nearly impossible to train. Most goats can be trained if you spend enough time and effort.

Unlike lambs, goats are shown with a halter, collar, or chain. Halter breaking is an excellent way to start the gentling process, especially if you have several goats. You can make or buy collars, chains, or inexpensive rope halters. Goats should be caught, haltered, chained, or collared and tied
to a fence. Do not tie the goats where they can hurt themselves, and do not leave tied goats unattended.

After your goat begins to gentle, you can start teaching it to lead. Use the collar, chain, or halter
to keep the goat’s head up while you teach it to lead. It is best to have someone assist you by
pushing the goat from behind whenever it stops. Teach the goat to lead with its front shoulder even
with your leg. The goat’s head should be in front of your body. The next step in the training process is to lead the goat and properly set it up. Set up the front legs first, then place the hind legs, keeping the body and neck straight and the head in a high, proud position by using the halter, chain, or
collar. You should stand at all times. Do not squat or kneel. After the training is complete, you should practice showing. Set up your goat and show it while someone else handles it. You must make sure the goat looks good at all times. If the goat responds properly, return it to the pen and do not overwork it.

Remember, in a major show, you may have only a short time to actually show your goat. If the goat does not show properly when the judge handles it, you may get overlooked.

Appropriate Dress
Dress neatly and appropriately for show. Leather boots are preferred for safety and appearance.
Wear clean jeans or slacks and shirt. Tuck your shirt in and wear a belt . You should be neat in
appearance but not overdressed.
Do not wear a hat or cap in the show ring. Proper planning and neat appearance will make a positive
impression on the judge.
Show Time
Your planning, selection, feeding, fitting, training, and grooming all pay off in the show ring. Your skill
in exhibiting your goat in showmanship cannot be emphasized enough. It is often the difference
between winning and losing. You must be mentally and physically ready to enter the show.
Before the show, walk over the ring to find the high and low spots on the arena surface. This will help you get the goat set up with the front end uphill rather than in a hole. By setting the goat’s front
feet uphill you will give the appearance of an extended front end and a longer-patterned animal.
When the judging begins, watch the judge if possible and see how he works the goats. You will feel more comfortable and confident if you know what the judge will want you to do.

In the Ring
When the appropriate class is called, take your goat to the show ring. Be sure to enter the show
ring promptly, leading your goat from the left-hand side of the animal. As the ring steward lines up
the goats, set your goat to look its best. Avoid corners of the ring, and leave plenty of space between your goat and others. Quickly, yet smoothly, set the goat up so all four feet are at the
corners of the body and the weight is distributed evenly to all four legs. Keep the body, neck, and
head in a straight line with the head up and alert.
Never place your hand on the goat’s back or the base of the neck, because this will hide the
judge’s view of the goat’s top. To set up, face the goat with your body and hold the head up with your right hand on the collar or lead and your left hand over the head and underneath the jaw.

Place your leg in front of the goat, and stay in front while the judge is viewing the goat from the rear. As the judge moves around the right side and to the front of the goat, remain on the left side and then face the judge and step to the side to provide a front view of the goat. As the judge moves to the left of the goat, move back to the front of the goat to give the judge a full view of the entire animal.

Handling the Goat
If the judge comes in to handle the goat, be prepared with your leg in front of the goat to keep it from jumping forward, and hold the head straight in line. Do not brace the goat as you would a
lamb. This will only tend to make the goat steep out the rump and less desirable in appearance.
As a good showman you must be alert and know where the judge is at all times. Remain calm and concentrate on showing. Set up your goat and be ready before the judge gets to you. Be careful not to cover your goat with your body and block the judge’s view. Always keep your goat between you and the judge. In large classes it may take some time before the judge handles your goat. Be patient and let your goat relax.
1. How to switch from position 4 to position 2.
2. How to reset up in the same position using position 3.
3. How to go from position 2 to position 7.
4. How to switch from position 4 and 5. 5 would move out first. ring for competition. By completing the preparation activities, you should have confidence that you can do an effective job showing your goat.

Finishing the Class
After handling your goat, the judge usually will step back and look at it. Be sure to keep the goat’s head up and body, neck, and head in a straight line.
Watch the judge and your goat. It is your responsibility to pay attention to the judge and not
miss a decision.
At this point the judge will usually walk the goats and set them up on the profile. Set your goat up as discussed before. Continue to keep it set up, remain alert, and watch the judge. If your goat is not pulled the first time, keep trying. If your goat is pulled, circle it out of the line and follow the directions of the ring steward while continuing to keep an eye on the judge. Move your goat with style and at a steady, moderate pace. Remember to keep showing at all times, because a class is not over until the ribbons are given out. Be courteous to fellow exhibitors. Remain standing at all times, and
always have a pleasant facial expression. Be a good sport, a graceful loser, and a humble winner.

By R. Kipp Brown, Area Livestock Agent. Adapted from Publication ANS96-603S/6,North Carolina Extension Service and Publication AS3- 4.060, Texas Agricultural Extension Service. Mississippi State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status. Publication 2263 Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. RONALD A. BROWN, Director

SHOWMANSHIP
By: Preston R. Faris

Showmanship! It is really important or is it just a class for youth so that the ones who can’t afford a great goat can have a place to compete on a more even footing? I contend that showmanship is extremely important, no matter what the age of the exhibitor. Showmanship is very simple to me and I don’t want to get bogged down in a discussion with the focus of the showmanship class.
Showmanship, as I view it, is the display of the animal and not necessarily the evaluation of the exhibitor’s technique. While there certainly is a place for the competitive showmanship class, there is always a need to use good showmanship technique in every class in which an exhibitor participates.

Too frequently when the showmanship class is held, the exhibitor forgets the basics of good showmanship and begins to be overly concerned with showing himself and not the animal. The other problem that I see with the class itself is that many try to make the showmanship class a venue for measuring the overall knowledge of the exhibitor about the project. While it is certainly beneficial for the exhibitor to be informed about the animal itself,

I choose to leave the measurement of knowledge of all of the management, business and other interests about the specie being shown to another time. In other words, if I ask a question of the exhibitor, it will be specifically about the particular animal, i.e. weight, age, date of birth, twin, single, etc. I personally do not like to ask questions about the industry as a part of judging the showmanship class. To me showmanship means just that, the skill involved in displaying the animal.
With that in mind, let’s get down to the basics of showmanship. I believe that showmanship is a skill and therefore almost everyone can learn to be a functional showman. Since it is a skill, it can be taught and learned. Some, however, are born with the natural ability to do better than others. Some people are just simply gifted. There are even a few who will never quite grasp the whole concept.

First of all, we must understand that showmanship is simply an effort to make the
animal shown always look its very best in the show ring. You will notice that I said we are here to make the ANIMAL look its best, and not the exhibitor. The exhibitor should certainly be neat and well groomed. After all, when a judge is judging, it is impossible to view only the animal and not the handler. Therefore, the whole package makes an impression if only subconsciously. If, however, the handler distracts from the animal by dressing obnoxiously or improperly, then he has defeated his purpose as the showman.
Dress appropriate to the event and the class is important. It is just possible to overdress as it is to over show and neither will be beneficial to the animal’s image as the judge is evaluating it. Neat, comfortable clothing which will not inhibit the exhibitor from moving and maneuvering the animal is important.

Courtesy in the show ring will be discussed later but it perhaps starts with the exhibitor being courteous to the judge in appearance. Therefore, except in instances where the exhibitor is self conscious about uncovering the head, hats or caps generally have no place in the indoor show ring. They may bump the judge as he handles the goat and that can be embarrassing to the judge and the exhibitor. While we are on the subject of embarrassing, it is never appropriate for female exhibitors to wear revealing clothing. If, as a judge, I have to worry about what others are thinking of me while I am looking at an exhibitor and her animal because she is inappropriately dressed, then I will just be forced to ignore that exhibit. Obviously good showmanship would not be anything to cause a judge to be distracted away from the exhibit. Dress neatly, comfortably and appropriately for the class and show.

Now down to the real basics of good showmanship. First, we must decide; what is the proper gear to use on the goat, halter or collar or neck chain. My personal belief is that a simple flat small link chain is the best in the show ring. There may be other things used in the training phase, like a chain with a halter or some of these wicked looking things which put intense pressure with the aid of prongs into the neck. Halters are not my choice because I do not believe larger animals respond to them as well as the chain, and they prohibit easy display from either side of the animal. We must also remember that the general public does not want to see anything that they believe to be cruel to the animal. Don’t give them any
ideas by showing them these harsh looking devices. There may be a need to use them on mature bucks but I can’t see much other use for them except to use at home in training.
Technique. While showmanship really begins at home with an understanding of the weaknesses of your animal, it really is highlighted the instant you enter the ring. Begin showing before you ever walk through the gate into the ring and never stop until you leave the ring. It is never official and never too late for a
judge to change his mind until the ribbons are handed out and the books marked. When the ring is entered, walk in with a good upright posture. Don’t enter stooped over or walking backward dragging the goat. The goat should lead alongside with the point of his shoulder even with your leg. Walk out naturally in a path parallel to the basic path of the goat and with your body sideways basically perpendicular to the line of the goat. Don’t turn your body in toward the goat. Be sure to keep the animal’s head up as high as possible and keep him walking out naturally.

Follow the directions of the ring steward or the judge in moving around the ring. If you’re not entered in the first class, then watch it. Most judges will utilize the same basic procedure as they work every class. A good showman will learn that procedure early in the day. There is little more frustrating to a judge than to have to explain to the same exhibitors, and even sometimes ring help, the procedure for working the class when the show has been underway for several classes.
If asked to enter and line up side-by-side then leave adequate space between you and the next animal, but don’t waste space. Always allow for the novice who comes in behind you and tries to crowd you out by leaving a little extra space to which you can adjust and even up after that exhibitor pulls in the line. Try to stay in a fairly straight line and maintain at least four feet off of the fence in front of you unless told to get closer. Many times the judge will want to walk in front of the animals between the animal and the fence, and he will want to have enough room to be far enough away from the animal to see the chest of the animal and the front legs. If asked to enter and remain at a side view, head-to-tail with other animals, then once again it is the responsibility
of the showman to gauge distance and stop soon enough to leave nice space in front of the animal. Remember that the novice can really mess you up when stopping on the side view if he presses you for room, so stop early enough to adjust if you have to.

Now it’s time to set the feet and legs. The corners of the body are the focus point for the feet. Some adjustment can be made to help an animal look longer or to overcome a weakness such as a weak top or sickle hocked, camped under leg structure. Don’t spread the legs too wide apart when looking at any point, front view, side view or rear view. Don’t stand the animal too narrow on either the front or rear view and don’t stretch the animal out when on the side view. Remember, the corners of a table-type leg setting are the example to shoot for. When asked to move, it is best to do so smoothly but deliberately. Don’t get in a big hurry; but, at the same time, don’t take all day. Always know where you are going and basically move there in a straight line. Look back at the judge with a glance while knowing where you are heading and keep in mind the position of your animal. Always be ready for instructions from the judge. Good eye contact lets him know that you are proud of what you have and would certainly appreciate a good look.

When asked to lead away from the judge, then do just that. Lead straight away, NOT IN A CIRCLE. He wants to see the animal track. The same applies for leading to the judge. Lead straight and stay out of the line of vision of the judge. You may be able to fool him if you know you have an animal that does not move especially soundly off his feet and legs, but you will probably do more harm than
good if you try to hide something. Remember to keep that head up on the animal. Keep your head up as well. Nobody likes a pouter. Always keep your cool in the show ring even if it’s not your day. Everyone has those days when the judge just doesn’t like what you are exhibiting. Remain courteous and do your job. Take
him a different kind next time and hope for the best. Never take your misfortune out on the other exhibitors. Courtesy is a must in the show ring. However, don’t let courtesy get in the way of doing what you must to maintain good position and highlight the best traits of the animal which you are exhibiting.

WHAT IS IN A NAME?
Mickey Nielsen Liberty Farm Cashmere
This article must be reproduced in its entirety and the name and contact information must be included at the beginning of any reprint. americancashmere@aol.com
What is in a name or how about a number?
Why is it important to use the assigned name/number of your goats when showing, selling, testing fiber, or entering their information on a pedigree chart?
There are a number of ways to identify a goat, and depending on the size of your herd, and personal preference you may or may not name your goats. But each goat must have some way to identify them as they age, your herd grows, or you sell them.
Don’t count on always being able to tell who ‘Gazelle’ is by looks alone. Besides that is just a poor way to keep records of your herd, and if you are showing, or selling breeding stock you must have a USDA Scrape Number on each goat.
If names and/or numbers are assigned to your cashmere goats correctly they can tell you a lot about each animal.

In our herd we name each goat, plus give them a number. We started naming the offspring with names that started with the same letter as the dam.
Each year also has a theme; such as candy bars, bible names, places on the map. This was a fun game that my daughter and I started but we kept it going as it helps us remember the different years and the goats that were born that year.
We have chosen to use our farm name LIBERTY as the identifying name before each given name. We could use our registered herd code NLF. But we decided that LIBERTY worked will.
Now if you see a goat with the name Liberty Mouse you know that that goat came from Liberty Farm and it is of my M line of goats.

How many of you have does in your herds back ground with the name Tinkerbelle, or Star, or Helen? It doesn’t tell you much about the goat does it. But if you add the herd code to the front of that name; CHC Tinkerbelle you now know that goats came from Champagne Cashmere out of Bend Oregon. This may help you to know if that is the same Tinkerbelle from another pedigree.
With the government assigned premise numbers you can now identify animals by that number to their farm of origin. Changing the ear tag color each year also helps to identify the age of the goat at a glance. Placing the does tag in the right ear and the bucks in the left ear also help draft them.
Being able to correctly identify the goats in your herd, where they came from and who they are related too is highly desirable. Breeding choices, culling choices, and management tasks can be made more quickly with more information.
It is beneficial to everyone with cashmere goats to take the time to correctly identify their goats.
Use the identifying name or number when you enter your goats or fleece in shows. This gives the herd of origin the recognition they deserve. This should be a standard practice.
Goats born on your property and under your ownership would receive your herd code or premise number.
Never change the identifying name or number when buying a cashmere goat. You can call them by a different name but always use the identifying name/number when showing, selling, or testing.

To register your three digit herd code contact:
Mickey Nielsen
mnielsen7@aol.com

To register for a premise number, contact your State Program.
http://animalid.aphis.usda.gov/nais/index.shtml

AMERICAN CASHMERE

2009-06-08T14:31:00.000-07:00

Editors Notes:
Mickey Nielsen

Happy New Year!
A major concern that is voiced by myself and others repeatedly in this industry is the confusion of what cashmere is; and who/what has set the definition of what CASHMERE is or is not. Since I started on this journey to produce cashmere to the present time I have not seen a change in WHAT cashmere is from those who have defined it. What we have seen is more clarity in the definition from research in the USA, and Australia. For example; crimp, also called style or curvature. (I will call it curvature as this is what the testing facilities call it.)
Curvature has always been a factor in the definition of cashmere, now we have available to us a simple test to measure the curvature of our fiber, and studies have been done that have shown the cutoff point between cashmere and cashgora. This is great news, and we should all use this resource to help evaluate our fleece. Along this same line is the studies of resistance to compression and how it affects the finale feel of the product. These are interesting studies that challenge some of our beliefs about curvature. Is more curvature always better?
Sadly all too often I see goats that are producing a wonderful amount of fuzz being bought and sold as cashmere, but to the trained eye upon inspecting the fuzz it is a cashgora type fleece. This is great spinning fiber, but it is not cashmere! We must all do more to educate ourselves to what cashmere is and is not. It is a major disservice to the industry when goats that are producing something other than cashmere are sold as cashmere producing goats. I would encourage you to formulate a farm plan, to test your harvested fleece, and at the very least send your fleece in to an association sponsored show where it can be evaluated by someone with experience with cashmere fiber. Please do be wary of shows that do not have experienced cashmere judges. For those of you that are new in this cashmere adventure be smart, ask for test results. Have a farm plan, educate yourself before
you purchase goats. Talk to two or three established producers. You will find that we are willing to educate and help. I hope you will find a wealth of information to consider and to learn from in this issue.
The Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI)
Background and History

The Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI) is an international trade association representing the interests of producers and manufacturers of camel hair and cashmere fiber, yarn, fabric and garments throughout the world. Formed in 1984 as the Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute of America, the Institute changed its name in 1990 to better reflect the international character of its membership and activities. Today, the Institute is the leading authority on domestic and international issues concerning these luxury fibers and advises on labeling, international standards, supply and market trends.
The goal of the Institute is to promote and protect the image and integrity of camel hair and cashmere textile products. This is accomplished through:
• Government relations
• Product testing
• Media relations
• Industry relations
GOVERNMENT RELATIONS
CCMI represents the interest of members at both national and international levels and works with appropriate government bodies whose activities affect the industry.
PRODUCT TESTING
CCMI monitors the marketplace for mislabeled camel hair or cashmere garments and provides a free fiber content testing service for CCMI members,
manufacturers and retailers to determine if products are accurately labeled. This service is not available to consumers.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
CCMI actively works with trade and consumer media to communicate to the business community and general public about trends and issues facing the camel hair and cashmere industry and its products.
INDUSTRY RELATIONS
CCMI provides a forum for industry leaders world-wide to meet and discuss important issues and to identify workable solutions for the common good of the industry.
CCMI's staff offers professional consulting services and advice on issues specific to the camel hair and cashmere industries including government relations, international standards, supply and market trends.
Definition of Cashmere
The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute defines cashmere as:
• The fine (dehaired) undercoat fibers produced by a Cashmere goat (Capra hircus laniger).
• The fiber is generally non-medullated and has a mean maximum diameter of 19 microns. The co-efficient of variation around the mean shall not exceed 24%. There can be no more than 3% (by weight) of cashmere fibers over 30 microns. (Reference IWTO Test Method 8-89).
The U.S. Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, as amended, (U.S.C. 15 Section 68b(a)(6)) defines cashmere as:
1. (A) the fine (dehaired) undercoat fibers produced by a cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger);
2. (B) the average diameter of the fiber of such wool product not exceeding 19 microns; and
3. (C) containing not more than 3 percent (by weight) of cashmere fibers with average diameters that exceed 30 microns. The average fiber diameter may be subject to a coefficient of variation around the mean that shall not exceed 24 percent.
Mislabeling - The Key Concern
• CCMI came into existence to combat the influx of garments being sold in the USA claiming to be genuine cashmere, but in reality, were not.
• The problem of mislabeled cashmere has and continues to tarnish the reputation of the product itself, as well as the companies who make and sell the garments.
• Demand for cashmere continues to grow world-wide. As a result, demand for raw material continues to rise and so does the price.
• The increased competition and demand for fiber has resulted in increased product contamination. Sheep wool is being blended with dehaired cashmere and the fibers are being sold as 100% cashmere. These stocks are being sold to Chinese sweater mills as well to Western buyers. As a result, more mislabeled garments are expected to be found in retail stores.
• Cashmere is a rare and expensive luxury fiber and there is a great incentive for unscrupulous manufacturers and vendors to cheat on the amount of the fibers in a garment.
Consumer Fraud: What Can You Do?
• Become familiar with the real thing. Watch out for so-called bargains and look for genuine quality behind the label.
• When shopping for cashmere or cashmere blend garments, check the loop labels and hang tags for cashmere percentage. Sometimes retailers use sleeve hang tags that read "Cashmere" or Cashmere blend", but the garments only have 10% or less cashmere. Without a statement of actual fiber percentages, this is a violation of the Wool Products Labeling Act, enforced by Federal Trade Commission, and it is deceptive advertising.
If you suspect consumer fraud, please contact the Federal Trade Commission, your State Attorney General's office of Consumer Fraud or your local Better Business Bureau.***

Cashmere Fibre Crimp, Crimp Form and Fibre Curvature
Bruce A. McGregor, Primary Industries Research Victoria

SUGGESTED CITATION:
Bruce A. McGregor (2007) "Cashmere Fibre Crimp, Crimp Form And Fibre Curvature", International Journal of Sheep and Wool Science: Vol. 55: No. 1, Paper 8, pp. 106-129.
http://sheepjournal.une.edu.au/sheepjournal/vol55/iss1/paper8
Raw cashmere samples collected from animals in China, Iran and Australia were measured for crimp frequency, crimp form, fibre curvature and other attributes. Eleven different forms of cashmere fibre crimp including straight cashmere fibres were observed. Different cashmere crimp forms appear related to different origins of cashmere. For some origins (China, Australia) the crimp form was primarily of uniplanar sinusoidal form, while for other origins (Iran) the crimp form was primarily three dimensional. Fibre curvature was highly correlated to visually measured cashmere fibre crimp frequency. Multiple regression analysis showed that cashmere fibre crimp frequency was best predicted by objective fibre curvature measurement. There were different relationships between mean fibre diameter (MFD) and fibre curvature for cashmere of different origins. As total fibre curvature (fibre curvature x fibre length) increased, cashmere fibre length (mm/(MFD x MFD)) increased. Objective fibre curvature measurement enabled the rapid measurement of a fundamental property of cashmere fibre, the fibre crimp frequency. The predominant form of fibre crimping for cashmere derived from a particular origin together with the low rate of fibre crimping would explain the low resistance to compression of cashmere and the differences in resistance to compression of cashmere between different countries. The crimp frequency versus fibre curvature relationship for cashmere was quite strong even though it covered a different range of values that have been observed in wool. The results are placed into context with a brief review of the accepted science of wool fibre crimping, processing and fabric handle. ***

Softness Attributes of Australian Cashmere
Bruce McGregor, Attwood
Updated: January 2007

Introduction
Cashmere is a luxury fibre regarded as being softer and more comfortable than other apparel fibres.

Cashmere is rare. Total cashmere production represents less than 0.01% of the textile market.
Processed cashmere is expensive. Specialized skills and equipment are required for processing cashmere.
For such an expensive textile raw material, surprisingly little objective information has been published on measurable attributes of cashmere in the form used by spinners.
This article discusses new information about the softness and other quality attributes of Australian cashmere. Comparisons are made between Australian cashmere and cashmere from traditional sources of supply.
Objective quality attributes of cashmere
The major quality attributes of raw cashmere fleece include: fibre diameter, freedom from fine medullated fibres, fibre length, fibre colour and freedom from contamination (vegetable fault, man made fibres).

Each of these quality attributes affects the speed of processing, processing yield, yarn and fabric quality. Most of these attributes are, or can be, objectively measured. There is little published information about many of the objective properties of Australian cashmere compared to the properties of traditional cashmere.

Softness
In the textbook on Textile Fibres von Bergen (1954) states “From time immemorial cashmere has been regarded as one of nature’s choicest products for its softness affords the wearer an extravagance of comfort and its superb soft texture brings to the garment all that may be desired in real elegance and distinction”. This is still the view of cashmere.

Softness, as it relates to textiles, means that a product yields to pressure or is easily deformed. The “handle” of a textile product is frequently equated with the softness of the textile.

While cashmere is regarded as one of the softest textile fibres, until recently there has been no reliable objective information on the measurement of softness in cashmere.

This article provides new objective information on the softness of cashmere.
Softness is a different property to prickle discomfort. Prickle discomfort can be evaluated using easily obtained measurements of fibre diameter distribution. This topic is discussed elsewhere in relation to cashmere (McGregor 1997). As a general rule, prickle discomfort is not an issue with Australian cashmere. Prickle discomfort can be reduced by lowering of the spinning fineness and the coefficient of variation of mean fibre diameter in Australian cashmere in order to produce finer processing fibre that will provide more comfortable handling textiles.
Research approach
Samples
Samples from more than 140 lots of commercially dehaired cashmere and cashmere tops were obtained from manufacturers in Europe, Iran, China, Australia and other countries. Fibre classed as Cashgora by cashmere marketing agencies in Australia, New Zealand and the USA has been grouped together. Core samples taken from bales of raw cashmere prepared for sale by the Australian Cashmere Marketing Corporation (ACMC) were obtained.

Cashmere samples from a range of nutrition experiments and from samples collected from goats in various Asian countries were also studied.
Procedures
Mean fibre diameter (MFD) and diameter distribution (coefficient of variation (CV(D), % of fibres coarser than 30 µm and that of cashgora samples from 17.8 to 22.7 µm increased and the incidence of medullated fibres (hair fibres) increased.
In white dehaired cashmere the median values for the medullated fibre were: medullated fibre diameter 32.3

Findings
The mean fibre curvature of dehaired cashmere was 61 degrees/mm with a range from 44 to 80 degrees/mm (Figure 1). This compared to Merino wool that ranged from 70 to 140 degrees/mm.
After adjustment for dehairing processor effect, cashmere from new origins had significantly lower fibre curvature than cashmere from Iran, East and Western Asia (Figure 1).

Cashgora samples had the lowest mean fibre curvature of 36 degrees/mm with a range from 24 to 46 degrees/mm.

Following adjustment for the effect of dehairing processor there was no overlap in the range of fibre curvature between cashgora and cashmere (Figure 1).

Figure 1 Distribution of the mean fibre diameter (MFD), fibre curvature and resistance to compression (Rc)
attributes of dehaired cashmere from different origins and cashgora, after adjustment for processor effect.
See legend for origin.

Explanation
Why would cashmere from Australia have a lower fibre curvature? In Australian goats, cashmere fibre curvature was dependent on nutrition. Better fed goats grew more cashmere that was longer and had lower fibre curvature compared with poorly fed goats that grew less cashmere that was shorter and had higher fibre curvature (Figure 2). In both Australian and Chinese cashmere, finer cashmere and shorter cashmere had higher fibre curvature than coarser cashmere.
Figure 2. The relationship between cashmere production
of Australian cashmere goats and cashmere fibre curvature. Data points are for different nutrition treatments.

The results indicate that during a growing season only a certain number of crimps are produced. Thus if goats are poorly fed, the cashmere will be finer and more crimped.

Resistance to compression
Definition
Resistance to compression is the force required to compress a mass of fibre to a given volume. Reducing resistance to compression results in softer handle. In Merino wools, typical values range from 8 to 13 kPa.

Findings
The resistance to compression of the dehaired cashmere overlapped substantially between origin of cashmere. Iranian cashmere showed the highest median value and the largest variation (Figure 1).

Cashmere from Australia and other new origins had the lowest resistance to compression values recorded for cashmere.
Cashgora had significantly higher resistance to compression compared to new origin cashmere.

Increasing fibre curvature was strongly correlated with increasing resistance to compression.

Implications
It is possible to differentiate the cashmere produced in different regions of the world on the basis of the fibre attributes of the cashmere (Figure 1). By plotting any two of mean fibre diameter, fibre curvature and resistance to compression, cashmere from different producing regions segregate into distinct groupings.

It was possible to segregate cashgora from cashmere even though the finest cashgora has a similar fibre diameter to that of Iranian cashmere, as cashgora had a fibre curvature of less than 45 deg./mm and cashmere had fibre curvatures greater than 45 deg./mm.

As lower resistance to compression is related to softness of handle, then cashmere from Australia and other new origins of production has softer handle than cashmere from traditional origins of production.

Fibre length
Findings
The length of dehaired cashmere from new origins was up to 20% longer than that of cashmere from traditional origins (Figure 3).
As the mean fibre diameter of dehaired cashmere increased there was a correlated increase in the length of dehaired cashmere.
Implications
This data indicates that dehaired cashmere from Australia is longer and finer than cashmere from the origins traditionally used for worsted processing.

Figure 3. Box plots of the fibre length of dehaired
cashmere from different origins and dehaired cashgora
showing the median, upper and lower quartiles with outliers.
Bundle tenacity and extension
Importance
The bundle strength of tops is rated as the third most important fibre property after mean fibre diameter and fibre length, in terms of its importance with respect to yarn strength and the speed of processing operations.

In the dehairing of cashmere, repeated mechanical action results in fibre breakage. As a consequence, most dehaired cashmere is only of sufficient length to be spun on the woollen system. Higher tenacity and more extensible fibres result in less fibre breakage and the potential use of the fibre in the worsted spinning system.
Findings
The data show that cashmere from Australia and cashgora have superior bundle tenacity and bundle extension (Figure 4) than cashmere from Iran, Western Asia and China.
Figure 4. Box plots of bundle extension of dehaired cashmere from different origins and dehaired cashgora (CG) showing the median, upper and lower quartiles and outliers (IR = Iran, WA = Western Asia, CH = China, CA = Central Asia, AU = Australia, US = United States of America).
Color
The variation of lightness and yellowness of white cashmere was large and of commercial significance for dyers (Figure 5).

The range in lightness of white samples between origins was similar. The within origin range in lightness and yellowness of “white” commercial lots was of commercial significance.
Figure 5. Box plots of lightness and yellowness of dehaired white cashmere from different origins and dehaired white cashgora after adjustment for processor effect.

Natural contaminants
Commercial bales of Australian cashmere have relatively low levels of natural extraneous matter compared with traditional supplies from China. The composition of typical raw commercial main line Australian cashmere can be summarised as: guard hair 44.3%, cashmere 28.5%, moisture 17%, suint 4.2%, grease 3.0%, soil 2%, vegetable matter 0.9%, other impurities

Prediction of Cashmere Style Using Objective Fiber Measurements
C.J. Lupton, F. A. Pfeiffer, and A.R. Dooling
1999
Notice from editor: this not the complete report (as I only have it in hard copy, can’t cut and paste). If you would like a hard copy please do ask and it will be mailed to you.

Introduction
Cashmere style is an ill-defined but important characteristic of raw cashmere. Early attempts to define style invariably resulted in some objections from one segment of the industry or another. A definition of “good style” that has received some degree of acceptance in the U.S. is as follows: Cashmere of good style has irregular crimp of relatively small magnitude and high frequency that does not lie in two dimensions but rather changes directions at irregular intervals along the length of individual fibers. (Lupton,1991). Straight fibers or those containing bold (mohair-like) or two-dimensional crimp (like some fine wools) are considered to have poor style….
Cashmere style is considered to be important by processors for several reasons: first, it distinguishes cashmere from other fine fibers; secondly, it affects the efficiency of the dehairing process and other mechanical processes up to spinning; and thirdly, it affects the hand (feel) of the finished fabric. Since cashmere goats were introduced into the U.S. in 1989, assessment of cashmere style has also been influenced (to varying degrees) by amount of luster in the down fibers, fleece color, down yield, average fiber diameter, and length of guard hair and down fibers. Intensive training is required for developing the ability to consistently and accurately assess style. Regular practice using fleeces of established style score is necessary for the classer to retain the acquired skill. There has been a need to develop a method for objectively measuring cashmere style….
Implications
If the significant relationship between cashmere style score and fiber curvature holds true for cashmere classers, then we will have discovered a simple, objective, potentially inexpensive, and likely a more consistent way to estimate cashmere style score. The average fiber curvature (AFC) measurement should be inexpensive because it can be obtained concurrently with the down average fiber diameter (AFD) measurement using the optical fibre diameter analyser (OFDA) while incurring no extra cost. Such a measurement would be very useful to the many cashmere breeders who have not undergone the intensive training required to become a cashmere classer or who have undergone the training but failed to develop or maintain the necessary skill.***

Dr. Chris Lupton
Professor, Animal Fiber Research
Texas A & M University Agricultural Research and Extension Center, San Angelo
(325) 653-4576, Extension 234
c-lupton@tamu.edu
Job Tasks: Research with Wool, Mohair, and Cashmere and other animal fibers.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR BEFORE YOU BUY
1. Crimp/style/curvature: Crimp defines cashmere

2. Length: Without length you have nothing.

3. Definition: Makes dehairing possible

4. Handle: I know it when I feel it (oh so soft)

5. Lack of Luster: Avoids angora infusion

6. Micron: Above qualities; the micron will follow.
7. Breeding: Buy what you see not pedigree

CASHMERE GOAT TYPE

2009-06-08T13:55:00.000-07:00

SELECTION AND EVALUATION
By: Preston R. Faris, Preston’s Perspective Agri-Resource Consulting. Dr. Frank Craddock, Texas Cooperative Extension
When evaluating animals for breeding traits and determining which are to be selected and which are to be eliminated we utilize several criteria to make these determinations. The first and most often used is visual appraisal and it is generally used most effectively in combination with performance data and pedigree information. When using visual appraisal to select animals to keep in a breeding flock we must use a somewhat different set of standards than that utilized by the judge in the show ring. That certainly doesn’t mean that we abandon the standards of excellence set forth by the American Boer Goat Assn. It does, however, mean that we may tend to place a different emphasis on some traits than the judge would in the show ring. It might even mean that we may ignore a cull fault and keep an animal in the flock if we choose to chance what the genetic influence might mean to the production operation from the trait sought after by using this animal. We will therefore be discussing selection and evaluation and noting instances where the association standards may or may not be utilized in culling or keeping a particular animal.

Live animal evaluation is done on a daily basis by everyone who works with animals. Good animal husbandry demands that we do more than just place feed in front of the animals and hope that all is well. Each day the caretaker evaluates the health of that animal against some standard. Whether we realize it or not we also evaluate the disposition of animals daily. Some are nice and some are downright mean. We may even select animals based on a standard of performance for the trait-disposition. Therefore, every person involved in the production of those animals irregardless of their formal training is an animal evaluator. For each trait we evaluate there must be a standard and that may be set by the person or come from an association such as the American Boer Goat Assn.

For any kind of goat production enterprise there are four general areas which must be covered in the evaluation and selection process. These are: 1) Structural Soundness, 2) Skeletal Dimension, 3) Muscularity and 4) Eye Appeal. It does not matter whether the goal is purebred seedstock production, show wether goat production or commercial production, these attributes must be considered for every animal as we determine its breeding value.

STRUCTURAL SOUNDNESS
Structural Soundness is listed first for a very good reason. Structure is the foundation of the animal and everything which we add must be built upon a sound structural foundation. Beginning with the head there are certain structural items that must be sound. The eye must be sound. A blind goat will not perform very well. The ears should be sound and functional. Notice that the shape or size of the ear is not mentioned. That will come later. Structural soundness is the issue being covered now and the size of the ear or its shape has little to do with its functional soundness. The jaws should be evenly opposed so that the teeth touch the dental pad when the goat’s mouth is closed. There are all kinds of variations of this in the anatomical makeup of goats. The ABGA even accepts in their standard of excellence a ¼ inch underbite once the goat is 24 months of age. For breeding merit that standard may be too relaxed and each individual producer must determine where he will draw the line. Sound mouths would certainly not include those which have a serious overbite or underbite. An overbite or an undershot jaw is commonly referred to as a parrot mouth. An underbite or overshot jaw is sometimes referred to as a monkey mouth. Either of these structural abnormalities should result in the animal being culled and removed from the herd because these traits are heritable and the breeding value of that animal is certainly in question.

This is a good place to address the issue of single trait culling of an animal. In most instances “single traiting” an animal out is not a good practice either on the farm or for the judge in the show ring. However, every trait must have an independent culling level assigned to it and for mouths evenly opposed jaws are to be preferred and gross exaggerations away from that standard merit culling.
The next part of the head to consider with respect to structural soundness is the horns. Obviously dehorned goats do not have horns and that trait is eliminated. For others the horns need to be strong and wide apart at the base so as not to catch other goat’s legs between them or be hard on human hands when handling the goats. Horns should not come to the head too quickly as they may irritate the skin or cause a problem as the goat matures by growing into the eve. Otherwise there is little else to consider with respect to the structural soundness of horns.
Progressing from the head to the neck and shoulder the animal must have a strong neck balanced in length to the body of the goat and blending well into the shoulder. The neck should come off of the top of the shoulder and not be set low. A high neck set will allow the animal to naturally keep its head up and be alert. This may sound trivial but animals which are alert and upheaded are almost always more healthy and thrifty.

From the neck we must progress to the top of the shoulder and topline of the goat. The animal should be strong topped and not have a dip behind the shoulder which is a serious fault. A weak topped animal will only get worse with age and can sometimes become totally unsound and unable to move about and perform at a productive level. The hip should be nominally level and not to steep. Steep rumps are generally the starting place for unsound hind legs.

Legs should be on the corners of the body and strong. Pasterns should be strong and yet have enough flex too allow the goat to move freely. Pasterns can be either too straight or too weak to maintain structural soundness. Very young and growing animals may have more flex in their pastern joint and older heavy animals should certainly be allowed the same flexibility. If the dew claw touches the ground as the animal travels then the animal is obviously too weak in the pastern. Other variations are subject to the individual interpretation of the person evaluating the goat. It perhaps should be remembered that there are some very productive does in commercial flocks which would no doubt be culled in the show ring and yet they have never had a truly unsound or crippled day in their life and have been very profitable producers. Cowhocks or goats with hind legs that hock in should certainly be avoided. Again this is more a matter of real structural soundness and even cow-hocked goats perform with little real hindrance in large commercial operations.
Post legs or legs with no flex in the hock joint are an even more serious problem than cow-hocks or goats which are sickle-hocked or slightly camped under. Post legged goats will almost certainly break down with age and weight rendering them unsound to move and perform at an acceptable level. Post legged bucks can actually stifle themselves while serving a doe or may simply become sore and lethargic during the breeding season when they need to be at their best.

The hooves of animals should point straight forward as the animal sets its foot on the ground. Hooves which turn in or out, splay toes and any other abnormalities of the hoof should be selected against according to the ABGA standard just as knock knees, buck knees, hollow legs and bandy legs.

The base of the animal’s tail must be centered and straight. The remainder of the tail can curve upward or to one side. A wry tail or tail that curls should be strongly selected against. This is another good standard set by the ABGA.

Although less injurious to the udder than cow hocks, bowlegs strain the hock and pastern joints.

Sickle-hocked legs can shorten a goat’s useful life. A Posty leg has no give in the stifle and hock joints jarring the body with each step. Very painful the condition often swells these joints and cripples the goat.
The reproductive organs of the goat should certainly be sound. The ABGA defines the correct structure for the buck as possessing two large well-formed equal sized testes in a single scrotum with no more than a 2” split in the apex of the scrotum. While there is no research to show that the split in the scrotum diminishes fertility or is definitely tied to future anatomical problems related to poor shaped udders in female offspring or to cryptorchidism in male offspring, there are definite sound reasons to avoid a split scrotum. If goats are grazed in pastures with cacti or sandburs then a split in the scrotum allows the potential for a thorn or bur to lodge between the testes causing serious problems and potential sterility.

The external genetalia of the female should be well developed and properly structured. While there is no standard set by the ABGA for this female reproductive organ it is essential that it develop naturally. Infantile vulvas are to be considered as potential indicators of poor breeders. Vulvas which turn up on the end can cause a problem when the buck is serving the doe and can result in poor doe fertility. This type of structure in the vulva of the doe could be an indication of a hermaphrodite (an animal with both sexual organs present to some degree) and this is obviously not an animal of breeding merit. The ABGS also stressed the importance of the doe having been bred by no later than 24 months of age. Goats are prolific animals which will quite naturally reach puberty and be fertile at 6-7 months of age. While some may not choose to breed does at that young age there is certainly no excuse for any doe not to have kidded by the time she is two years of age.
The udder of the doe and structure of the teats is obviously of critical importance when assessing the breeding value of the animal. Again the ABGA has set a good standard stressing that does should have well formed udders with good attachment with the number of functional teats not to exceed two per side. A split teat with two distinctly separated teats and openings with at least 50% of the body of the teat separated is permissible but teats without a split are preferred. It is most important that the udder is constructed so that the offspring are able to nurse unassisted. Cluster teats and fishtail teats are a cull fault as an independent culling level in assessing the breeding value of a doe. Over sized or bulbous teats and pendulous udders are a very serious problem and if accepted into a breeding program can result in real headaches for the future.

Teat structure on bucks should also be evaluated. Though there is no standard set by the ABGA for teat structure on bucks it is critical that the good breeder place as much importance on the buck side of the equation as for the doe side. After all the doe will contribute to only a few offspring in the flock over her breeding lifetime unless she is flushed in an embryo transfer program. The buck, on the other hand, will impact perhaps the total kid crop for however long he is used. Do not allow a buck with bad teat structure to pass that trait on to a high percentage of does in the flock.

SKELETAL DIMENSION
Skeletal Dimension is the next important attribute to consider in determining the breeding value of any goat. As before the discussion can begin with the head. The ABGA has again set a good standard and starting place by stating the animal should have a prominent, strong head with brown eyes and a gentle appearance. The nose should have a gentle curve with wide nostrils and a well formed mouth with evenly opposed jaws. Teeth should erupt in proper sequential positions. The forehead should be prominent and form an even curve linking the nose and horns. The horns should be dark, round, strong, of moderate length, positioned well apart and have a gradual backward curve before turning outward symmetrically. The size of the skull is a good indicator of overall skeletal dimension. Good width between the eyes and horns indicates a stoutness of the skeleton which will be seen in other skeletal areas. Good length of the head is the first indicator of growth and is always very proportional to the length of the rump and other skeletal areas. Small frail heads and horns are generally indicative of frailness throughout the skeletal makeup of the animal. Good skeletal dimension in the head while being feminine or masculine and balanced to the remainder of skeletal development in the animal is very positive. Too much emphasis on heavily curved Roman noses can result in improper jaw alignment which is a serious structural fault. As noted by the ABGA standard a concave forehead, a weak jaw, a jaw which is light and too pointed or shallow are indications of poor skeletal dimension.

Progressing to the neck in considering skeletal dimension, the ABGA calls for a neck of moderate length which is well balanced and proportional to the remainder of the body. Balance is always important and yet the length of the neck is a good growth indicator. Long clean necks are frequently found on animals which are thrifty, alert and high performing. Long necks usually go with other skeletal length. The overall dimension of any animal is three dimensional – length, width and depth. Length of neck and body are important influences on the overall dimension of the animal.

Length of body is importantly balanced with width and depth of the body. An open rib which is well sprung off of the topline of the animal allows for plenty of internal capacity. Depth of body in the chest and especially into the rear flank of the animal again increases the internal capacity of the animal. The ABGA calls for a broad long rump with a gentle slope. A long rump will not be found on an animal with a short body. Everything is generally proportional if the animal is properly balanced.

The ABGA does not address the length of leg in its standard of excellence. Balance again should be the key and the depth of body of the animal should make up at least 60% of the total height of the animal. Legs which are too long offer no real merit since the animal is a meat animal and the consumer utilizes almost none of the animal below the underline. Legs which are too short, however, may indicate poor overall growth. In rough terrain or in large pastures animals with legs which are very short may be stressed to travel and make a living. Balance is the key thought in determining the correct length of leg.
Length and depth must again be balanced with width. When seen from the front the animal should be wide in the floor of the chest and yet balanced and not course or open fronted. From the rear the animal should again show width in the rib and middle portion of the body and width between the hind legs on a sound structure.
The bone in the leg of a goat should be large and flat. Small round bones in the body of any animal are instant signs of frailness of skeleton. The foot of the animal should be large and sound. Dark colored hooves are almost always sounder than light colored hooves.

MUSCLE
Structural soundness and skeletal dimension are the essential foundation on which the goat must carry the all important reason for its existence to the consuming public. That reason for being is the production of an edible product called red meat and that red meat comes from muscle.

Muscling in an animal is apparent everywhere on the skeleton. There are, however, certain areas and indicators which every good evaluator of livestock uses to asses the amount of muscle present in every animal. We have started with the head and neck as a place to begin evaluating the first two attributes of the animal’s breeding value. However these two anatomical features are not principle sites for consideration of the muscularity of an animal. While the neck should certainly show evidence of muscularity the first real spot to look for muscling is along the topline of the animal over the rack, back and loin. The longisimus dorsi muscle extends the length of the topline of the animal and yields one of the best carcass cuts of the animal.

The shoulder should also be expressively muscled and yet not be course or out of proportion with the rest of the body. The top of the hip and the upper, middle and lower portion of the hind leg as viewed from the rear should give the appearance of good muscularity. One of the thickest portions of the goat’s body when viewed from the rear should be just above the area from stifle to stifle. From the rear view the goat should also show good muscular development on the inside and outside portion of the leg as the muscle carries down to the hock.

Body condition certainly influences thickness in an animal since fat is interspersed between muscles and overlays the muscle in some regions of the goats body. It is easy for the inexperienced eye to be fooled by fat. A good indicator of true muscle in the body is the goat’s forearm which is directly proportional to the longisimus dorsi muscle which extends the length of the topline. The forearm lies against the bone in the leg and is basically covered only by skin. In animals which are not dehydrated the forearm is a very good indicator of true muscling.

More muscle in an animal means more saleable product. The meat from a lean properly conditioned goat is one of the most wholesome red meats available to man. Therefore the goal of every goat breeder should be to maximize the production of muscle while maintaining balance and symmetry in the animal.
EYE APPEAL
Eye appeal is the third attribute of the animal which must be considered and its importance must never be underestimated even in commercial production. Balance and symmetry in the way all of the animal’s parts fit together is the most important factor in eye appeal. Females should be feminine with clean feminine fronts and heads which show them to be females. Their bodies should show feminine angularity such that the animal appears up fronted and the depth of the body should increase into the region of the rear flank.
Bucks on the other hand should be masculine in appearance with strong heads and a rugged bold spring to the ribs to carry the respiratory system essential for them to survive the stress on their body during the peak of the rut and breeding season. This does not, however, diminish their necessity to carry plenty of muscle as they will be passing on this very important trait to all of their offspring. Balance again is the key factor for consideration when viewing the animal.
Eye appeal again starts with the head. There is perhaps no other single anatomical feature in the animal which immediately impresses or depressed the animal evaluator more than the head. Shape of the head and horn is extremely important. The strength of the jaw and the curvature of the nose speak volumes for the enoblement characteristic of the Boer goat. Again balance to the rest of the animal must be present. The ABGA states that the ears should be smooth, of medium length and hang downward. While ears which are folded lengthwise represent a cull fault in the show ring the trait may not be serious enough to cull a really good animal from the breeding flock. This again must be left to the judgment of the animal breeder.
Coloration of the animal is a fancy point and may not have serious economic significance except in the sale of show stock. The ABGA states that the preferred goat is an animal with red hair on the head and ears and white on the remainder of the body. However there is now a significant demand for red goats and an ennoblement program has even been developed for goats which are non traditional in color. If the clientele to which a breeder sells the majority of his goats demand a certain color then color certainly takes on an economic significance. Otherwise there are very good goats in a broad array of color patterns.

Pigmentation on the hairless areas of the goat’s body should, according to the ABGA, be at least 75% pigmented with 100% the desired. While this may also seem economically insignificant and while skin cancer may not be as prevalent in North America as it is in the goats’ native to South Africa this is certainly a characteristic which has been bred into the Boer goat and one which is worth placing positive selection influence upon.
The skin of the Boer goat is to be loose and supple. Many desire pleating on bucks but bucks which show this characteristic very early in life are frequently very early in their maturity pattern and do not attain sufficient size at maturity. The hair coat is to be short and glossy with a limited amount of winter down or under-coat during the winter months, especially in colder environments.

Do you now have all of the information necessary to be a real success at selection and evaluation of animals for their breeding merit? Not hardly! We have just touched on the visual selection traits. Animal evaluation and the design of mating schemes involves much more. We must now look at records and genetic makeup of the animals. This will help yield much more predictability to the desired outcome of producing superior animals.

RECORDS and RECORDKEEPING
At kidding time there are several pieces of information that need to be recorded. The number of the doe along with the date of birth of the kid born, number of kids born and sex of each kid needs to be recorded. With this information you will be able to make decisions on two important traits, time of kidding and frequency of kidding. Other data that needs to be recorded is the number of kids weaned as well as pre-weaning and post-weaning growth weight.

Time of kidding refers to the heat cycle in which the doe was bred. Ideally we would like every doe to breed in the first heat cycle (21 days). Bucks are generally left with the does for at least two and sometimes three or more heat cycles. Replacement doe kids from does that kidded early in the breeding season will be more productive over their lifetime than doe kids from does that do not breed until the third or fourth heat cycle.
Frequency of kidding tells you if the doe bred every year. If a doe does not breed every year she should be culled. There are some does that only breed every other year. There is no excuse for this in a conventional breeding program of once a year kidding. One might make exception in an accelerated kidding program where the does kid every 8 months, however, for this type of program to work properly exceptions should not be made.

The number of kids born is extremely important, but the number of kids weaned is even more important in determining profitability. One must have many kids born and then keep them alive and wean as many as possible to offer profit potential. This is a reflection of mothering ability and flock management. Traits related to reproductive performance are generally low in heritability; therefore, more improvement can generally be made in the management program than through the selection program. Some management strategies that can improve reproductive performance are barn kidding, use of ultrasound to determine pregnancy and the number of kids in the uterus coupled with appropriate nutritional programs, use of marking harnesses and teaser bucks, breeding at night, breeding soundness exams for bucks, etc.

Pre-weaning growth rate is how the kids grow from birth to weaning and is primarily a function of milk production in the dam. Kids should be weighed at weaning which generally occurs anytime after they are 60 days of age. It must be remembered that total pounds of kids weaned is important. You should not expect twin and triple kids to be as heavy as singles, however, the sum of the weights for kids raised as twins or triples should exceed that of a single. Does with twin or triplet kids produce more total milk that does with a single kid but each of the kids in a multiple birth situation gets less milk than a single raise on a good dam.

Once the kids are weaned they no longer have mother’s milk to make them grow. They are now depending on their own genetic potential for growth assuming proper nutrition. This is known as post-weaning growth rate. It is common for purebred producers and other good breeders to place especially buck kids on some type of gain test for 60-90 days to determine post-weaning growth rate.

To make the best assessment of the value of an animal for breeding merit these types of records should be used. To make the best selection of animals to retain in the flock to be used for breeding you should use a combination of record and visual appraisal. Remember that every good breeder has an old doe at home that looks terrible and yet you keep her because of the progeny which she consistently produces annually. Without records she might be the first doe culled. What a mistake!

PEDIGREES
Visual appraisal and records should be used by all goat breeders and especially in commercial operations to maximize progress through selection. Another important selection criteria which is utilized by purebred stud breeders is pedigrees. Many purebred producers have identified certain family lines (bloodlines) that they want to pursue in their breeding program and consequently select their goats or purchase outside breeding stock based on the merit of their ancestors. Pedigrees are most useful if they are used regarding the most recent individuals and used as the basis for selection of young animals before their performance or that of their progeny is known.
In all selection programs it should be noted that economic traits or parameters should take precedence over the lesser important traits or fancy points of the animal if true improvement is to be made. Remember that the ultimate value of all breeding programs is to produce animals which will yield the desired product for the ultimate consumer. That consumer is the one who purchases the product for the table. Purebred stud operations can not survive without the commercial meat industry. Producing animals which ultimately fulfill that objective must be on the mind of every person in the goat business.***

Dr. Frank Craddock is professor and Extension sheep and goat specialist stationed at the Texas A&M Research and Extension Center in San Angelo. He is also a member of the animal nutrition section in the Department of Animal Science. He received his bachelor's degree and doctorate from Texas A&M University and his master's from the University of Wyoming.
Preston R. Faris is associated with the Utah State University Extension.

CONFORMATION TIDBITS

The ideal slope of the rump is 20 degrees. The length of the rump, from hook to pin should be 30% of the total body length (point of shoulder to pin bone). The width between the pin bones should be as much or more than the width between the hook/hip bones. The body depth should be 60% , and the legs 40% of the total depth of the animal from top line to the ground. Bone lengths in the rear Z should be about the same length for best balance.
Flat horns cause us pain, a round horn is best. Horns that quickly turn out from the skull or point upward cause other goats pain, these animals tend to be wild and hard to handle.

In Cashmere goats’ conformation is 50% of the evaluation with the fiber being the other 50%.

Typically goats that have strong bodies have strong fiber (coarse), goats with fine bodies have fine fiber. Balance is the key.

Evaluation after goats are shorn is best, it is hard to see through all the fluff to see the real story otherwise.

TYPE EVALUATION COLLECTION: GOAT HANDBOOK
ORIGIN: United States
DATE INCLUDED: June 1992
Extension Goat Handbook
This material was contributed from collections at the National Agricultural
Library. However, users should direct all inquires about the contents to authors or originating agencies.
AU H. Considine; Portage, WI
RV G. F. W. Haenlein; U. of Delaware, Newark
DE Anatomy and Physiology
1. The identification of a correct physical trait, or its lack, is known as type-trait evaluation or more commonly ''classification''. It is the comparison of an individual animal and it parts with the ideal for that breed, sex and age. Recognizing that physical appearance of an animal has a relationship to its usefulness and concerning ourselves with those traits that help an animal function more successfully, is the basis of classifications.

2 .Type evaluation is nothing new, for all livestock breeds and species have been developed through the centuries by breeders selecting their stock by looking at them. Fundamentally, type evaluation, is the art of trained people, examining animals by eye to determine physical strengths and weaknesses.
3 .The idea of description type identification and its aid in developing superior dairy cattle was developed by Dr. George Trimberger of Cornell University. Holstein cattle breeders adopted the system followed by other cattle breeds, and the American Dairy Goat Association. The dairy goat industry is now collecting into its computer data banks, information on sires that can be of great
importance to world goatkeeping. Bucks will be located who not only have the ability to sire high producing daughters, but also who have physical characteristics that make them valuable overall.

4 .Breeders are recognizing that the true worth of a good dairy goat is not only based on milk production in a particular lactation, but on lifetime production, at a relatively low feed cost, with few health problems, and while also producing a large number of good offspring.
These characteristics can be determined. Does have yielded 20,000 to 30,000 lbs of milk while living fourteen years and delivering thirty offspring. Invariably, such animals have physical properties that a trained classifier will observe and point out in a program designed to develop durable, useful, long-lived goats.
5. It is recognized that the ideal program for dairy goat improvement employs production testing and type evaluation. A random sampling of 10,000 scores of dairy goats of the five major breeds in the United States indicate a positive correlation
between front end scores (width of chest and smooth shoulders) and length of life. Of the animals five years old or more, 86had front end scores of 1 (Excellent) and the rest was 2 (Acceptable). Those aged one through four years, had 59 with scores of 1 (Excellent) in front end. This would indicate that the higher front end scores are associated with longer life.

6. It is essential that a classifier is well-trained so that accurate coding and scoring is done. As a milking doe is brought to the classifier, his trained eye will note length of bone, overall width, strength and power as well as the correlation of parts, e.g. how well the animal ''fits together''. The ease of motion and leg action will be observed from front, side and rear. Udder and teat sizes, shape and placement will be considered. While individual techniques vary as to the order of examination, the usual method is to handle the udder and make a final appraisal of the tightness and area of attachments, ease of milking and softness of udder tissue. Usually a squirt of milk is drawn from each teat. Then a code number is assigned in each of five areas. These descriptive codes range from one to five and each has a specific meaning. ''ONE'' is the excellent code and means 900r more perfection. ''TWO'' is the acceptable code and covers the range from 70to 890f perfection and includes those who are nearly undesirable to those nearly excellent. Numbers THREE, FOUR and FIVE are used to describe different characteristics that are undesirable and will probably affect the usefulness of an animal. Each number is used for a different fault in a specific area.

7 .Fore Udder
The Fore Udder is scored as follows:
(1) Means a strong, wide, tightly attached fore udder, extending well forward and blending smoothly into the abdomen.
(2) A moderately firm attachment of fore udder but with a noticeable degree of either looseness, bulginess, pocketing, or failure to be far enough forward.
(3) Short; a term used to indicate a fore udder that inhibits usefulness by failing to provide capacity in a safe place, that is, close to the body. It does not extend well forward and often does not extend ahead of the stifle joint.
(4) Loose, pocketed or bulgy fore attachment. A loose attachment would allow the udder to swing from side to side as well as possibly being carried too low so the chance of injury, especially while the doe is running would be greatly increased. A pocketed fore udder means that there is an open space of considerable size in between the side attachments at the front of the udder. Such a characteristic forces a doe to have more of her milk secreting tissue, the delicate alveoli, carried at a low level, down between the hocks perhaps, where the chance of injury is greater. A bulgy fore udder consists of non-milk secreting tissue, often fat or connective tissue, extending forward and usurping the place of milk-secreting tissue.
(5) A broken attachment, a fore udder held only by a couple of folds of skin and so disastrously low that udder injury is imminent with its consequent likelihood of disease.
8. Rear Udder
After ascertaining which of the above codes applies to the fore udder attachment, that number is recorded and the Rear Udder attachment is likewise evaluated:
(1) Great width, tightness and height, often just an inch or so below the vulva and blending smoothly into the escutcheon. The higher the attachment, the safer the udder from scratches or injury.
(2) Adequacy, but some degree of lowness, narrowness or looseness has been observed.
(3) An udder attached very low between the hind legs.
(4) The rear udder is narrow and pinched. This is frequently found in udders with unsatisfactory production.
(5) The attachments are broken, the udder is pendulous and the doe frequently has great difficulty walking with the rear legs because the udder swings with each step.
9. Udder Support and Floor
This area is closely allied with the structure and strength of the medial suspensory ligament.
(1) Applies to the area where the medial suspensory ligament neatly divides the udder halves with a small inverted ''V'' and proceeds horizontally right and left towards the teats for a distance of 2 to 3 inches. Normally a Code 1 in this area is used only if the codes on fore udder and rear udder are both ''1'' or ''1'' and a ''2''. The
length must be strong enough to keep the teats in proper placement and the udder tight against the body. The contribution of the udder support and floor to overall mammary excellence cannot be overemphasized.
(2) Some degree of:
a. shortness
b. over-length
c. failure to carry well forward on the doe
d. failure to carry high enough into the escutcheon
e. too much cleavage
f. not quite enough cleavage
(3) A lack of defined halving - the udder floor flat or even curving downward. Often teats point outward because of this trait.
(4) An udder floor that is too low making the udder subject to injury with each step the animal takes.
(5) A broken suspensory ligament and/or weak floor. In either case the udder hangs so low as to be a burden to the goat and is subject to injury and sanitation problems.
10. Udder Quality
(1) Reserved for those few does (currently about 1 in 20) who have extremely soft tissue in the udder. The udder usually requires observation both while extended with milk and then immediately after milking out before a Code 1 is given. Very little connective tissue can
be palpated and the skin is soft and smooth.
(2) Most animals have a Code 2, acceptable, but not outstanding, with a bit more connective tissue in proportion to the extremely soft alveoli - the milk secreting cells.
(3) If, for various reasons, such as closeness to parturition, the udder texture can not be determined a Code 3 is applied.
(4) In those extreme cases when an udder has so much connective tissue usurping the place of milk secreting tissue that it is limiting production.
11. Teat Size and Placement
(1) Teats that are about 21/2 to 3 inches long, 3/4'' to 1'' in diameter, placed evenly and squarely on the udder, nearly plumb but pointing slightly forward. (This latter reason because all dairy goat milking in the United States is done from the side of the doe and teats pointing slightly forward are easier to grasp and milk.)
(2) Some deviation from ideal in length, shape or placement but still functionally useful.
(3) A size or shape that is either hard to milk or subject to injury. An overly large teat is both difficult to grasp by hand or milk with a machine, and it also has the disadvantage of being more easily stepped on or torn by sharp objects the doe is climbing over. On the other hand, teats that are too small may make hand milking so difficult and time consuming as to render the doe almost useless.
(4) Teats that point outward to such a degree that both hand and machine milking are made difficult.
(5) Occasionally, does are found with abnormal teat structure, such as a double orifice (two openings for the milk to emerge in the same teat) or extra teats, some of which may actually give milk resulting in an extra chore at milking time. When abnormalities are discovered a
Code 5 is used.
12. Mammary System
Five areas of the mammary system are now coded and along with a general observation of the shape and capacity of the udder, a final score is given. Three general guides are: If all 5 areas are coded ''1'', the score must be above 90. If all 5 areas are coded ''2'', the score must be between 70 and 89. If all 5 areas are coded in combinations of ''3'', ''4'', or ''5'', the score must be 69 or lower. Most udder codes are combinations of acceptable ''2'' with an occasional excellent ''1'' and some unacceptable ''3'', ''4'', or ''5''. The classifier must use his skill and expertise to arrive at the over-all score.

13. Body Capacity
The classifier will observe the comparative length, width and depth of the animal, noting especially the length, depth, and spring of rib and width of chest floor. A comparison will be made mentally between the animal being classified and the ideal of that breed, sex and age. As the animal approaches the ideal, the score may go into the high 90's, or may be as low as 50 for an extremely small, frail animal. Younger animals, yearlings, 2 year-olds and 3 year-olds, are not expected to be as large as a mature 4 year-old; nor are does as large as bucks. Toggenburgs are not required to be as large as the other breeds. A guide of acceptable breed standards in minimum weight for mature does is:
Toggenburgs 120 lbs
LaManchas 130 lbs
Nubians 135 lbs
Saanens 135 lbs
Alpines 135 lbs

14. Dairy Character
In arriving at this score, careful observation is made since this is to indicate the animal's ''will to milk and the strength to sustain it''. Many factors are considered in arriving at the final score. These include:
A long, lean neck.
Proper degree in fleshing throughout.
Smooth shoulders.
Sharp withers.
Prominent vertebrae.
Incurving thigh.
A chiseled head.
Cleanly molded hocks.
Tortuous mammary veins as related to age and stage of lactation.
Production evident in the udder as related to age and stage of lactation. This score should be closely related to an animal's ability to produce milk, but is also influenced by the soundness of the udder. In general, a dairy character score is lowered by 10 points if the score previously given to the mammary system is below 70.

15. General Appearance
To aid breeders in their program, this area is descriptively coded in 8 subareas much as the mammary system.

16. Stature -- This term loosely defines overall size and length of bone.
(1) This animal should be tall at the withers, at least 2 inches over breed minimums which are:
26 inches for Toggenburgs
28 inches for LaManchas
30 inches for Alpines, Saanens, Nubians
These standards are for mature does, but the Code ''1'' doe must also have a correct length of cannon bone (from knee to pastern) and be above average in overall length of body and general size. Height at withers must be slightly more than at hips, and bone must be of good
size. These characteristics make an animal “upstanding''.
(2) Animals meeting breed minimum standards but not up to Code ''1'' level are coded ''2'' ''intermediate''.
(3) These animals are too short and small for breed and age or have extremely short legs. Code ''3'' describes low set - short legs.
17. Head -- It should be noted that on the head there may be observations that can be termed aesthetic besides being functional. Conformity to breed ideals in structure of nose, shape and size of ears are considered. This is balanced by the practical considerations of length, width, strength, set of jaw and overall symmetry.
(1) This head is beautiful when judged by a breed fancier or the practical eye of the commercial dairyman. With beauty of eye, nose, ear, and overall form it must also be a combination of strength and refinement. It should have a balance of length, width and substance that insures an ability to consume large amounts of forage with ease.
(2) Acceptable, lacking some in either strength or breed character.
(3) Sometimes the head is coded ''3'' because it is too short – a trait often associated with lack of will to eat plenty of feed.
(4) Frequently, crossbred animals are such a hodge-podge of breed characteristics as to be unflattering plain - just not pretty – and they are coded ''4''. A head is also coded ''4'' in the case of a large coarse animal with little indication of refinement. Often associated with poor productivity, the ''4'' in this case means coarse.
(5) This last code, applicable to some heads, is for those whose strength is lacking everywhere and is shown in the head by frailty with a narrow muzzle, weak jaw, pinched nostril, narrow forehead and sunken eye. It says simply ''weak''.

18. Front End - This is a combination of chest and shoulder features.
(1) A wide chest floor and prominent brisket with smooth blending of shoulder blades and sharp withers. Such a front end ensures plenty of room for the heart and lungs to do their life-giving work with ease and also is evidence of proper muscle and ligament strength in tight shoulders. As pointed out earlier, preliminary research indicates a strongly positive correlation of high front end scores with longevity.
(2) Code ''2'' is frequently used where there is some degree of deficiency in:
Width of chest floor;
Tightness of shoulder blades;
Proper fleshing of shoulders (the animal is a little over-fleshed).
Code ''2'' may mean just acceptable in all three sub-areas.
(3) If the animal is much too overfleshed or the point of shoulder is obnoxiously prominent a code ''3'' is given - coarse shoulder and neck.
(4) A narrow, weak condition - with almost no chest floor or brisket; the heart and lungs are extremely crowded; body capacity is adversely affected and longevity greatly reduced.
(5) An open shoulder, a condition resulting from loose ligaments holding the shoulder blade to the chest wall and often making it difficult and painful for the animal to move.

19. Front Legs
(1) Those legs which are straight, perpendicular to the ground, sound in the knees, full at point of elbow and move with the front feet pointing correctly straight ahead.
(2) Sound legs but not quite straight or moving quite correctly.
(3) The front legs bow forward at the knees when viewed from the side. For a stimulation of the undue strain put on muscles and tendons when this occurs, one is advised to try standing upright for some minutes with the knees curved forward. It is no wonder, the animal quits feeding before it should, and lies down; consequently producing less when this condition is present.
(4) Swollen knee joints - normally this is associated with an arthritic condition and interferes with mobility. It is frequently associated with a short cannon bone in the forelegs.
(5) Front legs which point outward as the animal walks; a peculiar ''paddling'' action is observed and the points of elbow continually dig in to the sides of the chest wall.

20. Back
(1) A straight, strong, wide, long, level back; denotes strong physiology, indicative of strength to carry copious quantities of feed, milk and offspring for many gestations and lactations.
(2) Means acceptable and is numerically from 70 to 890n the ideal score card.
(3) A severe dip in either the chine and/or loin.
(4) An animal is lower at the withers than at the hips and is appropriately called ''low in front''. This condition can be a serious detriment to the health and well-being of an otherwise sound animal, for as parturition approaches, the digestive and reproductive organs tend to follow the pull of gravity and fall forward onto the diaphragm. This compresses heart and lungs, making it hard for the animal to breathe and have proper circulation. A survey of classification scores shows it is rare for an animal with this trait to survive past 5 years
of age.
(5) A severely roached back - very arched and high through the loin. While not especially dangerous in itself, it is frequently associated with a weak chine, steep rump and makes the topline indicative of lack of overall strength and symmetry.

21. Rump -- Affects leg set, kidding ease, and potential udder attachment, this area is of great importance.
(1) Long, wide, level from thurl to thurl, cleanly fleshed, and having a correct slope from hips to pins.
(2) Some degree of impropriety in the above descriptions.
(3) A narrow rump - this condition often leads to a rise in the vertebral processes making the rump resemble a gable roof. Naturally, kidding ease is lessened by the narrow rump and pelvis.
(4) A very steep slope from hips to pins. Actually this condition, when combined with great width, frequently makes for easy kidding. But since it also lessens the area for a large attachment and makes for an awkward rear leg set, it must be tempered toward what is termed the ''proper slope''. A perfectly level rump is not desired either.
(5) This last deficient condition is short. It is not often found.

22. Hind Legs
(1) Rear legs that are very wide apart and straight when viewed from the rear, with clean hocks and just the right combination of bone refinement and strength. Observed from the side, a plumb line originating at the pin bone would fall parallel to the leg bone from hock to pastern and touch the ground at the heel of the foot. The resulting angles produced at the hock and stifle joint will be the most ideal for an easy walk and a minimum of joint problems. These angles are seldom, if ever, found in a leg beneath a code ''4'' rump (severely sloping).
(2) Acceptable rear legs will have a noticeable deviation in angle, straightness or strength, but are not yet affecting the animal's walking ability.
(3) The rear legs turn inward when observed from the rear. In such a condition, a couple of things happen. First, the udder, if of any size, is battered first one way, then the other by the doe as she walks; Secondly, the animal usually has a tendency to point the feet outward and ''paddle'' as he/she walks. It is not comfortable for the goat and results in less movement for feeding and especially when heavy with kid.
(4) This animal has hind legs that are too close together. When associated with a larger udder, the mammary system is frequently twisted by lack of space and is hard to milk.
(5) A leg that is too straight or posty. Most noticeable is the lack of angle at hock and stifle joint, and it seems to get worse with age. Probably causing more trouble than any other single leg ailment, it is of particular concern when the animal walks without flexing the hock joint.

23. Feet
(1) A strong, well-formed foot with tight toes, deep heel and level sole. Such a foot is highly resistant to injury or infection and is easy to keep trimmed.
(2) Slight deviations are acceptable. It might be noted here for some familiar with cattle that the dairy goat is much smaller and is not affected as much by less than ideal feet than the vastly heavier cow. Also, the horny outside of the hoof grows quite rapidly under ordinary commercial dairy conditions and is more frequently trimmed and shaped by the herdsman. Therefore, a degree of imperfection that would cause serious problems in a cow is less likely to occur in a dairy goat.
(3) This is a common undesirable affliction - a spreading toe. Often this is a result of weak ligaments in the pastern area. It produces ill shaped toes that are hard to trim and also provide a place for manure and debris to build up and cause infection.
(4) This code refers to a defective condition known as ''shallow heel''. In a normal foot, the hoof hairline should be parallel with the sole of the foot. In the shallow heel there is less depth at the rear of the toe than the forward part, and the animal is forced into rocking back on the pasterns putting undue strain on them.
(5) Feet turning over. A turned-over foot is miserable to trim, hard to walk on and puts an unusual strain on the pasterns.

24. Miscellaneous Conditions
Occasionally some conditions are found that need to be noted to properly describe an animal.
(1) Overshot jaw - when the lower jaw is shorter than the upper jaw also known as parrot mouth - it often affects feeding ability.
(2) Undershot jaw - the lower jaw is longer than the upper jaw and can also affect feeding ability.
(3) Winged shoulder - a condition manifest in looseness of the attachment of the shoulder blades to the chest wall and especially at the point of elbow. A winged shoulder makes movement more difficult.
(4) Small for age.
(5) Weak chine - it is used in conjunction with a code ''3'' in the
Back to point out that the chine is weak but not the loin.
(6) Sickle leg - in this case the hind leg has too much ''set'' or angle, and puts more strain on the leg structure. It is the opposite of a ''posty'' leg.
(7) Overly refined bone - an indication of frailty, bones too weak to carry the body weight.
(8) Weak or broken pasterns.
(9) Severely cleft udder - the medial suspensory ligament divides too soon resulting in a non-existent udder floor and wasted space between the udder halves.
(10) Tilted or twisted udder - with a tilted udder, the teats will point nearly forward. A twisted udder has one half ahead of the other half to some degree.
(11) Disqualifiable defect in breed character - each breed has its own standards for ear size, set and structure, nose structure and some have color norms. The classifier must be aware of these so he can point out animals ineligible for registry in a certain breed, but this has small importance in this discussion which stresses function.
(12) Swollen or blemished hock.
(13) Dry - indicates the doe was observed while dry, that is, not lactating. More possibility of error exists at such a time especially in udder evaluation, so classifiers tend to be conservative and the possibility of a higher score when in milk should be kept in mind.
(14) Off-color, for example a Toggenburg doe with a large white spot on her side.
(15) High dorsal process in rump - vertebrae higher than thurls which are often narrow and pre-dispose toward kidding problems.
(16) Teats too large. Used in conjunction with code ''3'' teats it indicates exactly why the teats are of undesirable size.
(17) Teats too small. Again used with code ''3'' teats.

25 .When the descriptive coding is finished the classifier will now assign a numerical score to the General Appearance of the animal. Lastly, using 30 % for Body Capacity, and 30% for a doe will be calculated. (When a buck is classified, the formula is 45% Body Capacity.) A score of 90 or above will place the animal in the Excellent group, 80 to 89 is Very Good, 70 to 79 is Good Plus, 60 to 69 is Good, 50 to 59 is Fair, and below 50 is Poor.
A majority of animals fall in the upper 70's to low 80's.

26. A useful part of this program is using it as a guide for corrective matings. For example, a herd may have plenty of production and generally satisfactory body type but has uniformly large, hard-to-milk teats. By locating and using a buck whose daughters have above average type and production and also have a high proportion of Code 1 (near ideal) teats, a good improvement can be made in just the next generation. This is known as Corrective Mating and can be applied to any part of the conformation of a herd or animal to produce superior offspring.

27. Classification of a herd is done by application to ADGA (the American Dairy Goat Association). AGS (American Goat Society) has a different program. There is a fee of about $4.00 per head which covers bookkeeping and travel reimbursement to the classifier, if at least 150 goats are classified in a certain area. Special classifications can also be arranged but may be more costly. Study of a judging book, like
the one by Considine and Trimberger and/or the official score cards obtainable from the breed clubs is highly recommended in preparation for type classifications.***

Goat Conformation
By Kris McGuire

Correct physical conformation is very important when introducing a breeding program intended to improve genetic traits. Genetic packages are just that, a complete package whose parts are inseparable once the package is defined. If it is your intent to improve the genetic package of the cashmere goats, you must manipulate three genetic characteristics: fiber diameter, fiber production and bodyweight. But in doing so, you must guard against introducing or propagating undesirable genetic traits that influence reproductively and viability such as narrow birth canals, lower fecundity, bad teeth, bad feet and legs and a lowered vitality.
To do so, we must be able to identify deviations from what is called the "type evaluation" for goats. Type evaluation is nothing new for all livestock breeds and species have been developed through the centuries by breeders selecting their stock by looking at them. Fundamentally, type evaluation is the art of trained people, examining animals by eye to determine physical strengths and weaknesses. Bucks used for breeding programs should have the ability to sire high producing progeny but also should have the physical characteristics that make them valuable and viable overall.

Breeders are recognizing that the true worth of a good goat is not based on production alone, but on lifetime production at a relatively low feed cost with few health problems and while producing a large number of good offspring. These characteristics can be identified and measured. Invariably, superior animals have physical properties that a trained classifier will observe and point out in a program designed to develop durable, useful, long-lived goats.

It is recognized that the ideal program for goat improvement employs production testing and type evaluation. It is essential that a classifier be well trained so that accurate coding and scoring is done. As a goat is brought to the classifier, his trained eye will note length of bone, overall width, strength and power as well as the correlation of parts, e.g. how well the animal "fits together". The ease of motion and leg action will be observed from the front, side and rear. Udder and teat size, shape and placement will be considered. Testes and external genitalia will be rated. Mouth and palate will be examined as well.***
NEW BUCK BUYER
byMarvin Shurley
For The American Meat Goat Association

Select a herd sire with the utmost care and attention.
With all the new producers getting into the meat goat industry there are many questions being asked as to what breed of goats they should consider buying. There are many breeds and it really falls back on the producer to select what fits their individual taste in size, temperament, type, color, horned, polled, etc. A person would also be wise to investigate the local markets to see what sells for a premium in their area as this varies greatly across the U.S. due mainly to local ethnic influences.

Once a person has decided which type and breed of goat fits their individual needs as determined by independent research, then comes the time to purchase or trade for animals. At this time, if the potential producer is inexperienced in livestock, they would do well to enlist the aid of a knowledgeable "goat person" to aid them in selection. Be sure to let them know exactly what you want. Should you be able to find these exact animals, be prepared to pay a fair to premium price to fill your pens with your special goats.

Now that we've addressed some preliminary considerations to getting into goats, I'll get into the main purpose of this article. This is to admonish the newcomer to select their herd sire with the utmost care and attention. The reason for this is the fact that no other goat that you purchase will have as great an influence on your future in the industry as will the buck you purchase to service your does.

The producer knows what breed they want by now and so we go into selection. A very good suggestion at this time would be for the buyer to attend some breeding goat shows (if possible) which are being held for the specific breed that they are interested in. This is important because some of the finest representatives of any breed will always be present at theses events. Also this can give a person an idea as to what direction and phenotype (visual appearance) to breed towards should they be interested in the show segment of the meat goat, dairy goat, or fiber goat industry. Also at these shows they should have the opportunity to meet persons who are currently engaged in breeding the specific animals they are interested in. Industry publications are also an excellent source for names, addresses, and phone numbers of individual producers. After awhile the newcomer will begin to recognize names of some of the premier producers for the breed that they are interested in.

Now we contact the breeder whose animals best represent what we are looking for. Most of them will be happy to tell you what they have for sale, and the approximate prices for their animals. Having now gotten this far it is now time to make an appointment with the owner to view them. Please do this as far in advance as possible as most breeders are extremely busy people and will need some time to make sure their goats are available for viewing. You can't just drive up unannounced at many places and expect them to drop what they have going at that time; some may, but many won't.
Through your research you had already narrowed down your selections, but please remember not to be pressured into buying an animal not up to your standards. If you don't see what you want, thank them for their time and extend your search. No conscientious breeder will take offense if you are polite and explain your position. I wish to again remind you of your position; you are searching for the most important component of your future breeding program.
When you discover an animal you're interested in, attempt to find out all you can about him. Such as his birth rank; was he a single, twin, or triplet, or possibly a quadruplet. What was his birth weight? What was the animals average daily gain, weaning weight, and if an older animal, mature weight? If his sire and dam are on the premises ask to see them. If he is an older buck check to see if there are any of his offspring where you can see them.

While this article doesn't cover every aspect , I hope that it sheds some light on the buck selection process for our novice goat producer.

This article first appeared in Meat Goat News, a RRL Publication, in the March 1999 issue.Reprinted with permission of the author.
THE CASHMERE GOAT REGISTRY™
CASHMERE GOAT BREED STANDARD

The Cashmere Goat Registry™ PO Box 812, Naches, WA 98937,theregistry05@aol.com,http://cashmeregoatregistry.blogspot.com/

THIS BREED STANDARD MUST BE REPRODUCED IN ITS ENTIRETY AND THE NAME, ADDRESS, AND CONTACT INFORMATION MUST BE INCLUDED AT THE BEGINNING OF ANY REPRINT.

All information and photos copyright © The Cashmere Goat Registry and may not be used without express written permission of The Cashmere Goat Registry. TCGR is a Trademark of The Cashmere Goat Registry.

BREED CHARACTER:
The breed standard for the Cashmere goat is primarily designed to enhance structural correctness of the breeding goat, with an emphasis on fiber, function, and survivability of the commercial animal. Cashmere goats should be medium to large framed goats which produce high quantity and quality cashmere fiber.

BODY CHARACTERISTICS:
Head:
Head and ears well balanced and proportioned to
the body, with a broad muzzle and a well
operating jaw. The teeth must be in anatomically
correct positions. Over-or under bites are highly
undesirable. Horns should show strong regular
growth, be symmetrical and be positioned well
apart. Horns should curve gently back and away
from the head. Horns are a natural part of the
breed; therefore intact horns are the standard.
Disbudded or dehorned animals should have that
noted on their registration. Naturally polled
animals not acceptable for breeding due to
possibility of hermaphroditism.

Neck and Forequarters:
Neck should be of moderate length and in proportion to body length, with shoulders strong and smoothly blending into withers. Wide chest floor and large heart girth to provide for adequate heart and lung space. Forelegs should be widely set, perpendicular to the ground, well muscled and set slightly back to support a large frame. Feet should be pointing straight ahead; buck knees, knock knees, pigeon toed, weak pasterns or splay footed animals are not desirable.

Body:
The overall body should be long, deep, and wide, with a straight, level back with adequate muscle from shoulder to hip. The width and length of loin are important to volume of meat on a carcass. Ribs must be well sprung, adequately muscled, and long, to allow capacity for foraging, pregnancy and maintenance of body condition. A concave or swayback is undesirable as is a narrow or shallow chest, weakly attached shoulders, and a pinched heart girth.

Hindquarters:
Rump should be broad and long with a gentle slope from the hook bone to the pin bone. Tail should be centered, curving upward over the back. Width between the pin bones should be equal too, or greater than the width of the hook bones. A side view should show a straight line from the pin bone down past the hock and pastern to touch just behind the hoof. These angles are most desirable for correct free movement of the legs. Cow hocked, post legged, sickle hocked and weak pasterns are undesirable.

Reproductive Organs:
Does:
Does should be feminine but strong, with a feminine wedge appearance of the body from a top view. The udder should ideally be round, with good suspension (not pendulous), with teats that are easily nursed by a newborn kid. Both sides of the udder must be functional. Udders with split teats, cluster teats, fishtail teats, oversized or bulbous teats are undesirable. Cashmere does may be bred at 7 months of age if they have sufficient growth. Postponing the breeding of doe kids beyond 10 months of age may cause them to be less productive over their lifetime. Cashmere does have great mothering instincts, and rarely need intervention at kidding time. Twins are most common, does being bred the first time often have singles, and triplets are the exception. Breeding age females must show evidence of having kidded by the age of two years.

Bucks:
Bucks should be masculine with adequate muscling. A masculine profile with the heavier chest and fore body is a manifestation of testosterone. Testicles should be of equal size in a single scrotum with no more than a 2” split in the floor of the scrotum. Testicles should be smooth, and free of bumps or lumps. Pendulous testicles, single testicle, or testicles too small are undesirable. Cashmere bucks can reach sexual maturity at 3 months of age. They should be removed from the herd to prevent accidental breeding.

FLEECE COMPETITIONS RESULTS

2009-06-08T13:50:00.000-07:00

Editors Notes:
Wow! Where did the summer go? Taking our booth on the road to the Big Sky Fiber Arts Festival was great fun and we gained some great exposure for the Association. Meeting Diane Thompson was a wonderful treat; she did a great job judging. Diana Mullins recovered from her fall out of the back of Ann's pickup, The Money Maker wasn't too cranky while setting up the booth, Ann Keenan did a great job as the Show Chair, I enjoyed visiting with my brother and family, Moon trumped it all and had a heart attack on arriving home. Moon is recovering so he can enjoy many more years with Diana, we are so thankful; please remember him and Diana in your prayers.
At Black Sheep our booth was a great success again, setting it up was a chore but Diana and I got it done (did you know PVC grows). Denita Wallace, and two new members; Vicky Manns and Susann Artley helped out with the booth and Paul Johnson did a great job educating everyone that came to the goat pen where Goat Knoll displayed three beautiful wethers. We handed out lots of information and sold quite a bit of product. In fact we need more yarn for the booth at OFFF if anyone has any.
Sacramento County Fair is asking us to come down next year on Memorial weekend. They will give us booth space, and we will have a place to judge the fleece during the fair hours while people are milling about. It does sounds like a great way to get our members together down that way and to educate and give exposure to NWCA.
As you can see the market is out there for your cashmere product. We have the booth that is attracting a lot of attention, now the question is are you taking advantage of what the Association is doing for you?
Mickey Nielsen Editor

2007 NWCA Fleece Competition Results
Judge: Diane Thompson 76 entries

Junior Champion Doe: BT #Y39
Owned By: Becky Bemus, Roving Winds Farm

Reserve Junior Champion Doe: SDC Selket # G11
Owned By: Jean-Louis Bleau,Snowdragon Acres

Grand Champion Doe: RSC Giselle # R26
Owned By: Becky Bemus, Roving Winds Farm

Reserve Grand Champion Doe: BBS Ruth # BBS50002
Owned By: Jeanne Austin, Blackberry Slump

Junior Champion Buck: RWF Asti # 0-15
Owned By: Becky Bemus, Roving Winds Farm
Reserve Junior Champion Buck: RWF Bogart # Y29
Owned By: Becky Bemus, Roving Winds Farm

Grand Champion Buck: RSC Figaro # P56
Owned By: Becky Bemus, Roving Winds Farm

Reserve Champion Buck: CNR Bro # CNR204
Owned By: Barbara & Ron Fiorica, Caprette Cashmere

Champion Wether: BBS Brick # BBS0015
Owned By: Jeanne Austin, Blackberry Slump

Reserve Champion Wether: PNF Winston # 25
Owned By: Ann Keenan, Pine Needle Farm

JUDGES NOTE:
First of all, I’d like to thank you for the honor of being asked to judge the 2007 NWCA Cashmere Fleece Competition. It is truly a privilege to be able to go through and assess all those exceptional fleeces from all the committed and accomplished Cashmere goat breeders. Never mind the sheer pleasure of spending a day with my hands buried in some of the finest examples of one of the most luxurious and scrumptious fibres on earth. Heaven!
When I say “finest examples” I’m quite serious. The fleeces submitted to this competition were all outstanding examples of cashmere fleeces. There was no fleece in this competition that was not “show quality”. This made judging this competition quite a challenge, as it often meant deciding which exceptional fleece was slightly more exceptional. A tough, tough call in many of the classes. My sincerest congratulations are due to each and every participant in this show.
When assessing fleeces we, each of us, will have our own slight preferences or bias in favour of qualities we value in a fleece: fineness, length, crimp, consistency and volume/yield all come together in slightly different ways in every fleece. I’m judging fleeces from a breeder’s perspective; that is to say I’m looking at the fleece with an eye to the animal that produced it.
As breeder’s of cashmere, we have the unique challenge in the fibre world of having to produce fibre that meets a strict fibre definition for diameter, length, and style. These parameters must dominate in our breeding program if we are to maintain herds producing fibre that meets the definition, and retains the quality cashmere stands for.
Nonetheless, stunning 50g fleeces don’t pay the bills. Volume and yield are critical for our industry to remain viable and profitable. Hence the temptation that many others have faced around the world. Do you compromise fineness and crimp for total yield and length?
From the fleeces I’ve seen here, I think the breeders here in North America are doing an excellent job of increasing the volume of cashmere while maintaining that critical fineness, style and consistency in their fibre. The increasing size of the bags required to hold a hand combed fleece is one obvious indicator! We are seeing some very large fleeces, showing lots of style and maintaining fineness. Our industry may be relatively small at this time, but, as evidenced by the fleeces in this show, the quality of our cashmere is world class.
When looking at these fleeces, the question of how much dirt or scurf is permissible in a show fleece was raised. Again, as a breeder, my tendency would be to focus slightly more on the quality of fibre the animal is producing than the cleanliness of the fleece and harvesting technique. However, there is no doubt it does make a difference when comparing fleeces of similar quality. A combed fleece with minimal guard hair and debris in it is going to assess better in terms of handle and estimated volume, and will very likely score higher. This is something producers might want to be aware of when harvesting their show fleeces. Fleece competitions mean different things to different people, but I think one of most important purposes they can serve is that of an educational tool for each of us to learn more about cashmere, and help us to develop and improve our breeding programs. We cashmere breeders are spread out over a large continent, and are often working in relative isolation. The opportunity competitions give us to “compare notes” is invaluable. They are also an excellent vehicle to help new breeders learn to assess their own fibre, by getting valuable feedback on each fleece. We are lucky with cashmere, in that it doesn’t weigh much and therefore doesn’t cost much to mail. This makes our (CCPA) “mail in” fleece competition not only possible, but relatively easy. Especially so when compared to live shows, where there are increasing regulatory and economic barriers to participation.
Again, it was an honor and a privilege to be asked to judge this show, and I enjoyed the experience thoroughly.
Thank you. Diane Thompson, Riversong Farm, BC Canada

CCPA Fleece Competition
Results 2007
Judge: Mickey Nielsen
60 entries

Grand Champion Doe: RSC Anika

Reserve Grand Champion Doe: RSC Fancy Feet

Grand Champion Buck: GSF Ali Ba Ba

Reserve Grand Champion Buck: GSF Magic Moon

Best of Show: RSC Anika

All owned by Diane Thompson, Riversong Farms
Congratulations Riversong Farms! Out Standing!

HISTORY OF AMERICAN CASHMERE

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THE CASHMERE PRODUCING GOAT

History of Cashmere Goats
Hardy multi purpose goats have been bred and used by the native people of Central Asia for hundred of years, the extremely fine, soft under-down these goats grow (cashmere) is highly prized for the making of incredibly soft, light and warm garments. Europeans "discovered" the fiber, notably in the so called Ring Shawl. These soft, warm shawls were so fine they could be pulled through a wedding ring, hence the name. Some reports have the Western world's demand for this fiber beginning when Napoleon brought back a ring shawl for his wife Josephine. Regardless of when the craze began, cashmere remains the ultimate in luxury fiber.
In the 1970s, scientists in Australia started breeding feral goats for cashmere production. The project was quite successful, and other countries took note. Scotland and the United States also started breeding cashmere producing goats in the 1980s, using genetics from Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania, as well as other regions. In the US the feral Spanish meat goats were used in the breeding program, after careful selection for fiber traits. There are variations in the appearance of the Cashmere herds in different countries, as they each have their own unique genetic make-up. However, they all share the ability to grow significant volumes of the very fine, crimpy, soft under-down. Farmers in Canada started their herds in the late '80s and early '90s using genetics from Australia and the US.

The Cashmere Goat
Cashmere goats in Canada and the US are goats which have been specifically bred for the cashmere fiber. The amount and quality of the fiber is vastly superior to goats not specifically bred for cashmere fiber production.
Angora goats produce mohair, but will not produce cashmere. Attempts were made to breed Angoras to cashmere producing goats to increase yield. What resulted was a long, wavy, lustrous, coarser fiber that can’t be called cashmere, hence the term cashgora from the combination of the goat names. Cashgora is, broadly speaking, fleece with three fiber components: coarse guard hair, a fine (crinkled) down or "cash" portion and the longer shiny and straighter "intermediate" fiber or "gora" component - the so called third fiber. There must be a down component. The term cashgora sometimes is also used to describe fiber that is over 19 microns. Goats that produce cashgora do not easily shed, and require shearing as a harvest method. Most cashmere breeders find a tendency to produce cashgora undesirable in their goats.
What is noticeable in Cashmere goats is the diversity of appearance. There are similarities too: they tend to have wide horns, blocky builds, and refined features. However, they come in all different colors, which make a herd of Cashmere goats appear like quite an assortment. White tends to be dominant, but black, brown, red, cream, gray, and badger faced are very common. They also may have either long or short guard hair. What matters is not the color or length of the guard hair, but the quality and quantity of the down underneath, and the size and correct build of the animal.
Cashmere goats are judged 50% on fiber and 50% on body. Cashmere goats are generally raised as a dual purpose animal; for fiber and chevron (goat meat). Producing two commercial crops instead of one adds to their attraction as a productive and sustainable agricultural animal. Some breeders also breed for milk production.
Cashmere goats tend to be alert and wary, rather than docile and placid. These traits are largely due to their feral ancestry, relatively only a few generations back. They also tend to be very easy kidders and good moms.
The Cashmere Fiber
Cashmere is a name for a very specific fiber, rather than the name of the animal it comes from. This is unique in the animal fiber community and is, in part, what makes cashmere the fiber that other fibers are so frequently compared to; as in: "As soft as cashmere".

The fleece of the Cashmere goat is made up of two very distinct types of fiber. One is the fine under down which is the source of luxurious fiber for sweaters and suiting “cashmere”. The other is the coarse guard hair. Guard hair can be long or short; there must be good differentiation between the guard hair and the cashmere (down). Be weary of goats that do not show these two types of fiber.

To be classed as cashmere the under down has to meet certain criteria set by the textile industry. These standards vary somewhat from country to country but in general the fiber must be:
1) Under 18.5 (+- .5) microns for adult animals, kids should be finer; a micron is one-millionth of a meter (a meter is about a yard), so each fiber is very, very fine. For comparison, a human hair can range from 17 to 181 microns in diameter. It is desirable to have a fleece with an even diameter from neck to breech.
2) Staple length longer than 1 ¼ inches; this is necessary for processing the down through machinery. Staple length is an important factor, contributing to the total down weight, (TDW); it must be a strong consideration for superior selection.
3) Have crimp its entire length: this is different than crimp looked for in sheep’s wool which is very uniform along the staple, cashmere crimp is a crazy individual fiber crimp. The crimpiness of the fiber gives it “loft” and enables garments made of cashmere to provide warmth without weight.
4) Low to no luster.

So although many goats might have a fine under down, it might not meet the requirement to be classed as cashmere.

Other desirable traits to look for in the under down “cashmere” are;
1) Density, combined with good staple length, is a highly desirable characteristic. A dense fleece will exhibit compactness and feel thicker, ("wool like"). Density also contributes to TDW.
2) Handle; Cashmere is warm and extremely soft to touch. Combined with warmth and lightness, handle is the "selling point” for Cashmere garments.
The total down weight (TDW) produced depends on the diameter; (the larger the diameter the heaver the weight), the length of the fiber; (quality cashmere is normally within the range of 1 ½ - 2 ½ inches, and the overall down density and coverage on the goat. Selective breeding for these traits is what makes for greater TDW. Goats with no selective breeding may produce only 1-2 ounces (30-55 grams) of raw down, but a goat selectively bred can produce as much as 4-6 ounces (145-170 grams) of raw cashmere annually.

To assess a cashmere fleece, breeders should have a laboratory do a "histogram" This is a measurement of the mean fiber diameter of thousands of fibers from the animal. This, along with a fleece grading from someone experienced in cashmere classification, are tools used in breeding programs to develop and maintain a herd of Cashmere goats.

Commercially there are three grades of cashmere; Premium below 16 microns, 16 to 16.6 micron and 16.7 to 18.5 micron.

Cashmere comes in a variety of colors from pure white to cream to soft grays and browns. A black goat (black guard hair) would produce a soft gray or brown cashmere.
Counterfeit Cashmere?!
Cashmere is an extremely valuable fiber. It is very light in weight, and each goat only produces a few ounces a year. Because of its value, there is a real concern with products being sold as cashmere, when they are not. The demand for cashmere continues to grow globally, which adds to its value and the problem with mislabeled products. Wool and other fibers are frequently blended with the cashmere, and sold as 100% cashmere.
The marketing term "Pashmina" is often confused with cashmere. Pashmina is not a legal fiber term for labeling purposes, but instead is an Indian word used to describe cashmere in India and Nepal. Often items sold as "Pashmina" are a blend of silk and cashmere; however there is no guarantee or requirement that they have any cashmere in them. "Buyer Beware" is good advice for those investing in a cashmere garment or yarns. For more information on what to be aware of regarding fraud and the mislabeling of cashmere, check out the web page of the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI).

Chevron
Goat meat is regularly enjoyed in most regions of the world: the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Middle East, Latin America, and Asia. The demand for goat meat continually increases in Canada and the United States. The Cashmere goats, with their Spanish meat goat ancestry, perform well as a meat goat. The strengths they bring are their fertility, easy kidding, good mothering and fast rate of gain. They are often used in commercial meat goat operations for just these reasons.
The dual purpose nature of these animals allows the producer to raise Cashmere goats commercially, and profitably. The demand for meat also allows producers to keep the quality of their cashmere high: it provides a solid market for animals with inferior fleeces. References: The Canadian Cashmere Producers, The Australian Cashmere Growers Association Ltd., The Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, The Cashmere Goat Registry, The Goat Notes, The Eastern Cashmere Association, The Northwest Cashmere Association.*

PROCESSING AMERICAN CASHMERE

2009-06-08T13:03:00.000-07:00

Complying with the Wool Products Labeling Act

Cashmere. The word evokes images of luxury, warmth and softness. The ultra-fine wool, from the undercoat of the Cashmere (or Kashmir) goat, is indeed a premium fiber - one that generally commands a much higher price than sheep's wool.
If you manufacture or sell clothing or household items that contain any wool, including specialty wools like cashmere, camel hair, mohair, alpaca, llama, or vicuna, you must comply with the Wool Products Labeling Act. That means your product labels must accurately reflect the items' fiber content, the country of origin, and the name of the manufacturer or marketer. Apparel items also must be labeled to show a safe cleaning method.
Fiber Content DisclosureProduct labels must reflect the true fiber content of the item. For example, if a sweater is made of wool, it can be labeled as 100% Wool, assuming it contains only wool. Likewise, if a sweater is made only of cashmere, it can be labeled as 100% Cashmere. Cashmere is a type of wool and also can be labeled as wool. If a sweater contains cashmere mixed with sheep’s wool, and the label refers to cashmere, the label must accurately disclose the content, e.g., 80% Wool, 20% Cashmere. It would be illegal to say simply Cashmere or Cashmere blend; the percentages must be stated. There is only one exception to the requirement that percentages be stated: the word All can be used in place of 100% if the product is made of only one fiber, e.g., All Wool or All Cashmere.
If a claim about the fiber content appears elsewhere on the garment, such as on a hangtag or a sleeve label, it must mirror the garment's fiber content label. For example, a coat labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool cannot have a hangtag or a sleeve label stating merely FINE CASHMERE GARMENT or FINE CASHMERE BLEND. In this instance, the hangtag or sleeve label also must say 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool - in equally conspicuous lettering.
The Textile Act allows a three percent tolerance for fiber content claims, but the Wool Products Labeling Act doesn't. However, the Wool Act says that deviation from the stated fiber content is not considered mislabeling if it results from "unavoidable variations" in the manufacturing process that occur despite the exercise of due care. For this reason, the FTC generally will apply the three percent tolerance to wool products. The three percent tolerance does not allow for intentional mislabeling. No tolerance is allowed for a 100% claim, as the addition of another fiber would always be intentional.
Testing is ImportantYou're responsible for label accuracy, even if you import, distribute or sell wool products manufactured by another company. You cannot necessarily rely on an invoice statement that the goods contain a specified amount of cashmere. Routine testing of fiber contents by a qualified, independent testing lab is the best assurance of accurate labels.
A trained expert, using an optical or electron microscope, can distinguish between cashmere fibers and sheep's wool fibers, following procedures established by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) or the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The basic distinction is not only one of diameter, as some sheep have now been bred to produce ultra fine fibers - with a diameter comparable to that of cashmere fibers. There are significant differences in the scale structure of the two fibers, and that is what the test expert looks for under the microscope.
Guaranty of ComplianceIf you buy and resell wool or cashmere products, you can ask your U.S. supplier for a "guaranty of compliance." The guaranty is a written statement on a product invoice or other dated document that states: "We guarantee that the wool products specified herein are not misbranded under the provisions of the Wool Products Labeling Act and rules and regulations thereunder."
In other words, the supplier guarantees that the wool and cashmere products sold to you are correctly labeled under the Wool Labeling Act. The guaranty must have the name and address of the guarantor. A "continuing guaranty", which covers all wool products sold by the guarantor, also can be filed with the FTC. Filing such a guaranty is an assurance by the guarantor that all of its products covered by the Wool Act are correctly labeled. A buyer who in good faith relies upon a properly executed guaranty will not be found in violation of the law if the goods are later determined to be mislabeled. Note, that good faith means acting prudently and not ignoring an indication (such as price or appearance) that an item may not be accurately labeled.
A special note about guaranties and foreign companies: A foreign company cannot file a continuing guaranty with the FTC. In addition, a guaranty from a foreign company is not a legal defense if the importer is charged with mislabeling products. A U.S. importer is legally responsible for the proper labeling of imported textile and wool products. Importers should test the fiber content of imported goods periodically to verify the accuracy of the label.
How Posh is Pashmina?The popularity of products marketed as pashmina - an Indian word for cashmere - has skyrocketed in recent years; yet most consumers aren't sure what pashmina is. That's not surprising, as pashmina is not a labeling term recognized by the Wool Act and rules. Experts tell the FTC there is no pashmina fiber that is separate and distinct from the cashmere fiber.
Cashmere fiber must not exceed 18.5 (+-.5) microns, and must have crimp. This is more of a crazy individual fiber crimp, not a uniform staple crimp you see in sheep’s wool. The fiber length must be a minimum of 1 ¼ after harvested. Dander in a fleece is bad, lice in a fleece is bad. A quality cashmere combed fleece should fill a 2 gallon baggie.
Some manufacturers use the term pashmina to describe an ultra fine cashmere fiber; others use the term to describe a blend of cashmere and silk. The FTC encourages manufacturers and sellers of products described as pashmina to explain to consumers, on a hangtag, for example, what they mean by the term.
As with all other wool products, the fiber content of a shawl, scarf or other item marketed as pashmina must be accurately disclosed. For example, a blend of cashmere and silk might be labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Silk or 70% Cashmere, 30% Silk, depending upon the actual cashmere and silk content. If the item contains only cashmere, it should be labeled 100% Cashmere or All Cashmere. The label cannot say 100% Pashmina, as pashmina is not a fiber recognized by the Wool Act or regulations.
Other RequirementsThe label must state the country of origin and the identity (name or Registered Identification Number - RN) of the manufacturer or another business responsible for marketing the item, in addition to the fiber content. For further information about the labeling of textile and wool products, see the FTC booklet Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts.
Care LabelsApparel care labels are required under the FTC's Care Labeling Rule. For information on complying with this rule, see Writing a Care Label: How to Comply with the Amended Care Labeling Rule.
Dry clean only? Many cashmere items are labeled Dry Clean Only. If your label says Dry Clean Only, you are telling consumers that the item can't be washed safely. To be accurate, you must have proof that the garment will be harmed by washing.
The truth is that many cashmere items can be washed safely at home. A label that says Dry Clean does not warn against washing and does not require proof that washing would harm the item.
For clothing that may be washed or dry cleaned, you must give instructions for at least one cleaning method. Of course, you may provide information about both cleaning methods. Consumers are telling the FTC that's what they want. Many consumers prefer to wash items that can be laundered at home.
For More InformationIf you have further questions about the Textile or Wool Acts, visit the FTC website at http://www.ftc.gov/ on the Web - click on Business Guidance, then Textile, Wool, Fur, & Apparel Matters.
Or call the Textile Information Line: 202-326-3553 (contains recorded information about textile, wool and RN matters)
For copies of this and other publications, contact: Consumer Response Center, Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580; toll-free 1-877-FTC-HELP (382-4357).
For more information about cashmere and other specialty wool products, contact:Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, 230 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02110-2409; http://www.cashmere.org/.

Dander or Lice?
What about the dander or lice in my fleece? Lice are sometimes seen in llama, mohair and alpaca and cashmere. Dander or skin flakes similar to dandruff is occasionally seen in mohair and cashmere goats and in the dual coat wool breeds like Shetland, Icelandic, and Karakul sheep. The good news about lice is they die when they loose their host so we are only seeing the dead nits (or eggs) on the fibers strands. The animal may have had lice at one time, then was wormed or deloused, but the nits are still in the fibers, just dead. Skin flakes or dander can be hereditary or due to a lack of zinc or minerals in the diet. Most common in the dual coat sheep and cashmere goats is skin flakes in the fleece from natural molting or shedding that occurs when the spring weather warms. Often called rooing, this is a normal process where the sheep shed their undercoat. This dander, skin flakes and lice nits can cause problems in a card and at the pin drafting machine. These items do not wash out at scouring so remain in the fiber through the processing. They act like sticky little pieces of gum and adhere to the card combs and the exit rollers on both machines. Then the fibers stick to these exit rollers also which then causes wrapping. So where the exit rollers should be extracting a nicely combed and formed roving, it is actually un-combing the fibers and wrapping them around the rollers. Not all lice or skin flakes create this problem but it occurs in at least half of the cases, with some worse than others. It is always harder to see lice or dander in the white fleeces. These contaminants are much more obvious and visible in the colored fibers.

PHYSICAL MANAGEMENT

2009-03-31T10:59:00.000-07:00

Wire Panels
Mickey Nielsen Liberty Farm Cashmere

Uses for Wire Panels
General pens - Mix and match different panels to suit the needs of your buildings and lots. You can never have too many pens.
To connect Walk-Thru & Drive-By Feeders.
Lot Fencing - panels make secure perimeter or subdivision fences for feedlots and handling yards. 48" tall panels stapled 2" above the ground provide 50" tall fences--enough to stop bucks. Space posts every 5 - 6 ft. The panels flex enough to provide curved sidewalls that are so useful in well-designed handling yards.
Field Gates - semi-permanent field gates, supported by wooden or steel T posts. Seldom used permanent gateways. For wide gateways, use two panels and open them from the middle. Because they're a physical barrier, they are more secure than electric gates. Kids, coyotes and/or guard dogs can't crawl through them, yet they are easily relocated when they are needed elsewhere.
Holding pens.
Alleyways.
Kidding jugs - To make 4 ft. x 6 ft. jugs.
Creep feeding pens--to provide baby goats with their own area, feed and heat lamp.

Bungee Cords
Uses for Bungee Cords
Hold wire panels together.
Hold wire panels to fence post.
Hold gates closed or opened.
Hold water buckets off the ground.
Tie down loads.

BellA bell is a great way to call in your goats. It works with a little grain training.

Fence Tool
A most handy tool to have around, it cuts, splices, and stretches wire, drives and pulls staples and post lugs, snips wire, making fencing less of a chore. Forged steel head, rubber and plastic coated handles. Tool measures 10-1/2" long.
2 Way Gate Latch: By SpeeCo
Fits round tube gates 1 5/8 -2 inch, Opens easily with one hand, gate can swing either direction when latch is released, helps to prevent gate end from swinging and sagging. Shuts and latches by its self with a push on the gate.

Goat Trough ProtectorKeeps your water troughs clean. http://www.caprinesupply.com/

Hoof Trimmer
Lightweight hoof trimmers, rust-resistant, sharp and stay that way. Pointed ends help clean out dirt embedded in hooves, and the narrow blades insure accurate cutting.

Iodine Navel CupNavel cups were introduced by Premier to enable treatment of navels with less mess and waste--so the iodine ends up on the lamb's navel and not on you! A built-in clip allows the cup to hang onto the side of jugs so it's easier to find in a barn. Small neck reduces evaporation. No lid to unscrew, drop and misplace.
http://www.premier1supplies.com/

MediWrap™
Treating a foot with Maxatox, encasing it with a MediBoot and securing the boot to the leg with MediWrap is nearly a guaranteed footrot cure. For mild cases, skip the boot. Apply Maxatox and encase the foot with MediWrap for 24 hours. Also excellent for mending broken legs.

Pocket Scale
A cheap spring balance hand scale for lambs, kids, wool and feed. 0 - 25 lbs. to nearest lb.

PVC Pipe
Short lengths of PVC duct taped on the horns of a goat make a great crown for goats that insist on getting caught in the fence. By cutting short lengths in half and rounding the corners PVC makes a great splint for injured legs.

Sulmet Sulfamethazine Sodium 12.5%; Drinking Solution
Use to teat individual animals at the first signs of coccidiosis. From Fort Dodge http://www.caprinesupply.com/

Ultra BossReady to use pour-on insecticide.
Sold as a control for lice and flies on cattle and sheep. For sheep, label says to use 1.5 ml per 50 lbs. of body weight. No withdrawal time for milk or slaughter in cattle. Active ingredients: 5% Permethrin and 5% Piperonyl Butoxide. Four ounce squeeze and measure bottle.
http://www.caprinesupply.com/

PLANNING YOUR GOAT YARD
A smooth functioning goat yard is necessary if you have 20 goats or 2000 goats. Being able to work your goats with minimal human effort is cost and time saving; it also saves on the aches and pains of a human’s body.
The goat yard needs to meet the needs of five basic functions, holding, moving, drafting, arranging, and treating.
Goats are creatures of habit and once shown the way they willingly will follow this same routine over and over again. Goats are best moved through a yard slowly and quietly to avoid stress. Working dogs must be under control at all times in a goat yard, or kept out.
There are four important factors to consider when you design your goat yard.
Size of yard
Movement of goats and humans
Facilities Needed
Environment Requirements
Size of Yard
Your personal needs must be considered as you plan your yard, for example do you also handle cattle, sheep, or llamas. Plan your yard big enough to hold all your goats if you plan to enlarge. Use strong building materials for your yard, as this area will receive heavy use. Pay attention to the bottom of your yard to make sure kids can not escape.
Holding yards require 1 square yard for each goat.
Movement of Goats and HumansThe goal is to have goats and humans move through the yard with minimum effort. Gates, gates, gates, are the key here. Think about how you can best move the goats into a maximum number of pens and raceways to meet all of your needs. Then how are you going to move around the goats without interfering with the goat’s movements. To keep the goats moving through a yard keep pathways wide and the forward movement of the goats always in the same direction. Provide an unobstructed view of exits for the goats, avoid down hill movement as goats naturally prefer to move uphill. Goats tend to flow better around blind corners and curved corners. Rear goats are more willing to continue moving forward if they can see other goats in front of them, even if those goats are turning around a corner. Keep raceways short as goats tend to pack up and can easily be smothered. Goats will avoid stress, so if they experience undue stress coming into a yard it will be more difficult the next time. Forcing yards require 1 square yard for every 3 goats.
Facilities
As many different task are preformed in a yard on one to many goats at a time it is important to layout the facilities so you can recycle the goats through the main yard in and out of pens. Make sure that equipment can be moved in and out as needed, and there is a secure place to put equipment while treating and drafting goats through the yard. High outer fences (4 feet min.) are a must to contain goats. Fences that are made of solid material such as plywood must be taller as goats can see the top of these type of fences better than a wire panel there fore they are more likely to try to jump out if they are pushed to hard.

Environment
Consider the climate you live in and the times of the year you will be handling your goats. Make sure and provide shelter, shade, and water for goats and humans. Minimize dust, and mud by paving and good drainage in your yard. Isolate goats for treatment from the herd at the last possible moment to avoid stress. *

Kidding Special

2009-03-29T00:54:00.000-07:00

BECOMING A STANDBY MIDWIFE
By Carol Spencer, 2006, Foxmoor Farm

After thirteen birthing seasons you would think this part of raising goats would be routine but each year something different happens. I have been very fortunate to have lost only three babies and have never had to have the vet out.
Patience: The most important lesson everyone needs to learn is patience – you must not interfere with your doe and Mother Nature unless it is absolutely necessary. Most of my barn time is spent wrapped in a blanket with my chair, petting the barn cats and just watching. A little ahead planning and knowing what to look for in the does is the secret. First priority is to assemble your medicine chest.
You will need: 2 pairs of rubber surgical gloves, 1 tube of lubrication jelly, 1 roll of paper towels, 1 squeeze bottle full of 7% iodine, 1 pair of sterilized scissors (keep in a zip lock until needed). Also you will need: a hair dryer and extension cord, a stack of clean bath towels, and a couple of grocery sacks for trash and cleanup.
Keep on hand for an emergency: a tube feeder and some mineral oil or salad oil (to rub on the tube to help it go down the throat). I have only used the tube feeder once when a baby was very cold and unable to nurse. It saved her life and this nice red doe is still in my breeding herd.
When you introduced your doe to the buck, hopefully you wrote the date down and if you were lucky enough to see them mate, that date too. It takes 150 days for baby goats to be born; it can vary plus or minus a couple of days either way.
I breed my does in lots of five (the number of birthing pens we have), about 2 to 3 weeks apart as I put them in individual pens in the barn to have their babies. Several of the pens have wire dividers between them, so they are covered with a tarp, as the does become more territorial, and if they can see their neighbor will spend their time butting the divider and not preparing for their babies.
The older does in the herd almost always breed first and kid first. It is time to catch them up and move them to the pens when you see their vulva become elongated and loose in the back. Another sign that their time is close is a clear or white discharge. When I catch the does I check the size of their bag, if the bag is large and the nipples are bright pink on the ends, they are close.
In a nice clean pen with plenty of straw, clean water in a bucket and a feeder full of hay, your doe will be content and make a nest where she plans to birth. While she is lying down, if you can see any movement of the babies, especially along the backbone, it means the babies are getting into position in the birth canal and it will be several more days of waiting. As the time gets closer the babies drop from the backbone to the belly. I find in my herd that those does who refuse grain at the evening feeding will kid that night or the next morning.
Eminent birth: The doe is very nervous – she gets up and down continually. Things begin to progress when lying down the does starts to push with her hind leg that is next to the floor. The pains get closer and harder and the next to appear is a balloon ball with dark liquid. A normal delivery is when you can see the hooves in the balloon of liquid then its head and nose laying on the front legs. After a strong push, the baby comes completely out. It is important to watch and if the doe doesn’t get the membrane off the head immediately, you need to use a couple of paper towels and wipe the nose so the baby can breathe. If it is struggling for breath, pick the kid up by the hind legs and swing it back and forth like a pendulum. It will force the birth liquid out of its lungs and help it breathe.
Let the doe clean the baby’s body. Licking is part of the bonding process and she usually does a good job. If twins or triplets are due usually there is an half an hour between births. There is time for the doe to clean her first baby and nurse it before the second comes. I find that covering the first baby with a towel and putting the hair dryer on under the towel will keep the baby quiet and warm while she is busy with the second or third baby.
Problems: Should a baby only have its head come out, it usually means the kid is large and the legs are under its belly. If the does is having hard pains, put a bead of lubricant jelly around the stretched vulva by the head to help the delivery.
Often I wait until the head is completely out and I can get a hold of the head just behind the ears and jaw; by pulling gently downward help deliver a live baby. Wipe the nose then leave. You want your doe to do as much as she can – licking is important to bonding. One year I had a first-time mother that absolutely refused to lick either of her twins. I had to towel them and then completely dry them out with the hair dryer. As soon as they nursed, then she was okay.
Hopefully the babies are up and nursing soon after birth and when full will wet – now it is time to give Mom a little grain treat. While she is eating, the babies get their shots. At our farm we give 1 cc of Bo-Se (which is selenium) just under the skin. This allows it to absorb more slowly. Lastly we cut the belly button to 1 inch with the sterilized scissors and pour iodine over it. It helps to lay a paper towel under the belly button to catch the iodine. The cord unless sealed with iodine is a direct connection to the bloodstream for infection.
The stool of a kid is first black and tar-like and then after a day or two of nursing will then produce a sticky bright yellow stool. Some babies nurse more and get a dirty rear end. If this needs to be wiped off, use a wet paper towel and just clean the back end. Do not wash the baby with soap. Smell is how Mom tells her babies from the rest of the young in the herd.
We leave our does and babies together for several days to bond and the babies to be steadier on their legs. Then we release the doe and her babies back into the main herd. Do this in the early morning when the herd is interested in eating and watch to see if there are any problems.
Everyone in the herd will want to smell the new arrivals at first then they lose interest.*
Watching Newborn Kids
Mickey Nielsen 2007, Liberty Farm Cashmere
This article must be reproduced in its entirety and the name and contact information must be included at the beginning of any reprint. americancashmere@aol.com

As a Cashmere goat breeder I work all year to get two things; a healthy fiber crop and live healthy kids on the ground each spring. Healthy kids start with the management of does before and while the does are pregnant. After five months of waiting no one wants to lose kids once they are on the ground. Here are some things to watch kids and environment for at kidding time to spot potential problems.

Abnormal interaction between the doe and kid.
Extreme cold wet freezing weather.
Foreign objects lodged in mouth.
Heat lamps that are to low or that can fall.
Lame or weak within the first week.
Low birth weight
Loose panels or plywood.
Lying in the same place.
Lying on their side.
Meconium
Not up and nursing within one hour
Sticky stools.
Too quite or too noisy
Watery or white colored stools.
Weak; cold mouth & tongue.

Abnormal interaction between the doe and kid, any time a mother doesn’t clean up, bites or butts their kid this indicates a problem. The goal is to not have any rejections; this is accomplished by culling out does with poor mothering instincts, and making sure your bucks and does are as healthy as they can possibly be at breeding time. That means CDT vaccinations, Bo-Se supplement shots, parasite control, good pasture, quality hay, a good mineral/protein block, and a little grain for the does.
The majority of the time cashmere does are very hardy and capable of kidding and raising kids with little to no intervention on our part. Extreme cold, wet, freezing weather happens at times here in the North, when the weather is extreme you need to have a plan. Having some jugs (small stalls 4’x 6’) to put your does and kids in with a heat lamp will save you hard losses in these conditions. If you find cold kids a warming box is a must.
Jugs must be sturdy and stable. Some does will be very protective and will demolish a jug if they can see a doe in the pen next to them.
Foreign objects lodged in mouth; such as sawdust, or bits of hay. The first year we moved to our highway house was pretty make shift for the animals, it happened to be a really wet year and the place we fed was turning into a swampland. We decided to bring in a couple loads of shavings to help get the animals up on something dry. It worked great for that but it sure caused us problems with the kids in the spring. We became very vigilant that year in watching for anything sticking out of a kid’s mouth or kids that don’t get up and run when you walk by. We really haven’t had a problem once the shavings composted away. But, I always keep a look out for any thing hanging out of a kid’s mouth.
With the extreme cold last year I discovered that turning a 50 gallon plastic barrel upside down, cutting a small doorway for kids and drilling a hole on the top I could make a kid nest with a heat lamp that the doe couldn’t get to. Just remember heat lamps are nothing to fool around with. Secure them with chains, check with your insurance company to make sure what they require for you to be insured when using a heat lamp.
Lame or weak kids within the first week; if you have a kid that can’t seem to get up to nurse or that walks with his hoofs curled under him, this can be white muscle disease or selenium deficiency. Giving your bucks and does Bo-Se shots is important in many parts of the country. I do this twice a year at minimum. I give 3-5 cc at 2 weeks before breeding and again at 6-2 weeks before kidding, then all the kids get ½ cc within the first 24 hours of birth. Plus all the goats have year around access to ‘Sweetlix’ meat maker block. Some kids just never can get up the strength they need if they are selenium deficient, you can try giving them more Bo-Se to see if that will help. Make sure the kid isn’t cold; always treat cold first. (Consult with your veterinarian before administering drugs to your goats)
Low birth weight is also a sign of selenium deficiency, poor nutrition or high worm load in doe. Our average kids’ birth weight is 5.5 pounds. By giving the does a little grain (about ¼ pound) while they are pregnant it helps ensure the kids are healthy and keeps my does in top form for lactation demands. Having tried the “feed less for finer fiber theory”, it just made trouble for us; low birth weights, under conditioned does, dander in the fleece, sick goats, rejected kids, none of this was worth any effect it may have had on fiber diameter.
Loose panels or plywood that kids may get behind, out of, or that may fall over are a hazard for kids and adult goats. ALL panels and plywood must be securely attached to prevent goats from getting smashed. It happens oh so easily.
Kids lying in the same place too long or they don’t move away when you walk by is a sure sign of trouble. Unless a kid is sleeping they should always get up and run from you. If not, check their mouth for foreign objects, check for dehydration, find mom and see if she is letting him nurse.
Lying on their side and unable to hold their head erect is a sure sign the kid is cold and weak, this is also a sign of selenium deficiency.
Meconium is the kids’ first bowel movement. If a kid is born with a dark yellow to light brown type film this indicates the kid was stressed enough before birth to defecate. Normally they do not defecate until after they are born.
Not up and nursing within one hour, signs of cold, weak and or selenium deficiency
Sticky stools that become caked under tail have never taken the life of any of the kids but it sure makes a mess and can make their little bottoms sore which could become infected. If I see this happening I try to get it pulled off as soon as possible, the longer it sets up the harder it becomes to get off.
Too quite or too noisy can be signs of abandonment, hunger, weakness, cold.
Watery or white colored stools can be signs of coccidiosis, treat healthy goats first and then the sick ones to avoid spreading. To improve your herds’ resistances to parasites you may want to consider culling goats that become ill with coccidiosis. It is important to treat as soon as you see signs of coccidiosis for best results. There are products that you can put in feed or mineral blocks to prevent coccidiosis.
Weak; cold mouth and tongue these kids must be warmed up first. A warming box works great for this.
Normally cashmere kids are quite hardy and do fine on their own, but it is good management practice and good for the bottom line to prevent needless lose of kids after birth. By watching kids and the environment for these simple things you maybe able to prevent the loss of a kid or two.

KID GOAT WARMING BOX*****
Items Needed:
1 square plastic milk crate 1 cardboard box (bigger than the milk crate)
1 hair dryer 2-3 old towels

Cut a small hole in the side of the cardboard box. Cut the hole toward the bottom of the box just big enough to place the nozzle of the hair dryer in the hole.

Place the milk crate in the cardboard box with a small towel in the milk crate.
Place the cold kid in the milk crate on the towel. Use the second towel to cover the top of the cardboard box. Turn the hair dryer on med/low and let it run until you hear the cold kid who has now warmed up standing and crying for milk. This can take 30 minutes or longer. If the temperature in the box gets too hot, pull back the towel on top or turn the hair dryer down.
Do Not Leave The Warming Box Unattended.
A caution: If the kid is lying to close to the hair dryer the heat can cause burns, place your hand in front of the running hair dryer to check. You may need to hang a towel on the milk crate between the kid and the dryer. Check the temperature and the kid often.

This warming box works so well because the milk crate allows hot air to flow completely around the kid, bottom, top, and sides.

How do you tell a kid is cold and needs a warming box? Place your finger inside the kid’s mouth. If it feels cold to your finger, the warming box is needed. Warm the kid first, and then give warm colostrum.*

Successful Kidding
Mickey Nielsen - 2006 -Liberty Farm Cashmere
This article must be reproduced in its entirety and the name and contact information must be included at the beginning of any reprint. americancashmere@aol.com

Successful Kidding begins long before the first doe starts pawing at the ground inpreparation of birth. Things like the doe and the bucks’ general health at the time of breeding play a major role in kidding success stories, along with milk production, nutrition, parasites, record keeping, shelter, and vaccinations.
Management of Cashmere Breeding Does
Healthy does readily conceive and often carry multiple kids. Producers should select for does that consistently produce and wean an average of 1.5 kids per pregnancy. The length of gestation in goats is five months. It is possible to attain an average of three pregnancies per doe every two years, most herds are not managed to do so. Operations which attempt twice-a-year kidding will need to provide sustained supplemental feed to their does during lactation and at breeding times.
Young does may be bred in the first year at 7-10 months of age. Body weight relative to breed is more important than age and can influence lifetime performance. Postponing the breeding of doe kids much beyond 10 months of age makes them not as easily settled at first breeding and they may have lower lifetime productivity. Breeding does too small can cause permanent stunting of growth.
"Flushing", (feeding females to gain weight just a few weeks prior to breeding) is one feeding technique known to be effective in the enhancement of ovulation rates and kidding percentages. Increasing the number of ova shed during the estrus period increases the likelihood of twinning. Where management systems preclude supplemental feeding, the scheduling of breeding during times when natural forage is plentiful can produce similar results.
http://smallfarms.wsu.edu/animals/goats.html#fiber

Record Keeping:
The importance of record keeping is based on the assumption that you are trying to do something with your goats other than have them for pets.
Basic information for each goat:
Date of Birth Birth Weight
Number in Birth Sire & Dam Information
Guard Hair Color Fiber Color
Vaccination Records Worming Record
Veterinary Records Fiber Harvest Records
Current Weight Current Picture
Kidding Records
Sire & Dam information should always include the farm of origin.
The Kidding Record should include:
Does Weight before Breeding & Doe’s Weight at Weaning Number of Kids Born Kid Birth Weights
Colors of Kids Kidding Problems
Sire Information Number of Kids Raised
Weight of Kids at Weaning
Records for breeding bucks should include:
Total number of doe’s bred & number of kids born
Total weight of all kids born Colors of Kids
Total Weight of Kids at Weaning
All of these facts on paper help us to make decisions to reach goals of improvement in our areas of choice.
http://www.breedmate.com/

Milk Production:Genetics is a powerful thing. It plays a major part in the milk production factor. If you have a doe that is not producing milk or enough milk to raise her kids to weaning please don’t use that doe or any of her off-spring in your breeding program or sell them or her to others to breed. To keep labor and expense to a minimum, and to keep producing the best cashmere goats we can; we must focus on keeping animals that can reproduce and raise their kids with as little input from us as possible. No matter how nice the body or beautiful the fiber she is not a breeding doe if she can’t raise her kids. If your goats can successfully raise their kids on their own, that means more time for you and less time in the barn.

Nutrition:Does must have quality and quantity of forage and /or hay to produce kids and fiber. Forage/hay should always be the number one choice of feed for your goats, that is what their stomachs are designed to process. Protein blocks are a great way to ensure that your goats are getting the added protein they need while bred and lactating. Adding a small amount of concentrate to their diet may be needed by those in colder climates during times of cold snaps and the last month of the pregnancy and the first month of lactating.
Because of the fuzzy nature of cashmere goats it is important to feel each and every one of your does for their weight condition. This is best done before you breed and four weeks before kidding when you give vaccinations. Does found in poor condition well require extra attention for successful kidding. It is important to observe your doe’s behavior often. Some signs of problems include; does standing off by themselves, head hanging down, not coming to the feeder and not chewing their cud.
Vitamins and minerals are also an important aspect of nutrition. Goats’ requirements are different than sheep, cattle and horses. Find a top quality vitamin & mineral mix for your goats and feed it as recommended. Does with inadequate mineral intake can have dander, birthing problems, weak kids, retained placenta, death of doe and kid’s.
Bred and lactating does require large amounts of fresh clean water. Does will not drink sufficient amounts of water if the water is to cold, if you live in a cold region you must keep the water from freezing.
It is important to understand that not feeding what your goats require can rob you of productivity and profits and paying attention to your doe’s nutrition means fewer problems at kidding.
Talk with your veterinarian about your goats nutritional needs
http://www.sweetlix.com/products/index.php

http://www.saanendoah.com/copper1.html

http://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/selenium.asp

http://www.saanendoah.com/map1.html

http://www.ruralheritage.com/vet_clinic/selenium.htm

Parasites:
Goats that are susceptible to heavy parasite loads require more feed, de-wormers, time and management. This all adds up to more cost and less time for you. Consider culling out goats that are prone to heavy parasite loads.
The ideal is to only worm your goats twice a year; two weeks after the first frost in the fall, and in the spring after kidding. A doe that has parasites will have a difficult time maintaining her health while bred. This can cause unsuccessful kiddings to occur.
There is some belief that goats that are more susceptible to parasites pass this on to their off spring. Consult with you veterinarian about your herd parasite management.
http://www.scsrpc.org/

http://www.sheepandgoat.com/articles/IPM.html

http://www.sheepandgoat.com/articles/coccidtable.html

Shelter:
In most areas of the country cashmere goats don’t require much shelter, something to get out of the wind, rain and snow, nothing fancy. What is called run in shelters, (a three sided low roofed shelter that they can run into when they want) is the best. By keeping the roofs low the goat’s body heat is retained in the shelters. It is important that there is enough square footage that the does can get away from each other. The herd pecking order must to be considered when providing housing. What ever your shelter is or made of it has to be strong and secure. Goats are often killed by plywood or wire panels falling on them. Shelters don’t have to be pretty but they have to be safe.
Cashmere goats do not require kidding pens to kid. Cashmere goats that are allowed to kid in the field generally do quite well at taking care of the birthing process themselves provided they have enough shelter and space to stake out their nest when the time comes.
We have used everything from dog houses, a pick-up canopy, old wooden steps and discarded porches to expensive plywood shelters. Currently we are using old apple bins..after all we live in apple country. These bins are perfect. They have a low roof that helps to keep the goats body heat trapped inside. Plus they are small enough that if I need to move them I can do that myself, they tumble around really well. Cut a doorway on one side turn them over and you have a personal run in shelter for a doe and her kids. Note that the pick-up canopy works great for a while, just know that in about two years you will need to discard it as the goats tramping all over it cause the metal to break which becomes hazardous.

Vaccinations:
Enterotoxemia is caused by Clostridium perfringens, an organism present in the gut of many, if not all animals. Under the right circumstances, it multiplies to high numbers and secretes an enterotoxin (poison produced in the gut) which is absorbed from the gut into the blood stream. This enterotoxin circulates to the brain and other tissues causing serious tissue damage which often results in death. Enterotoxaemia may occur in goats of any age. The disease is generally associated with overfeeding and indigestion which frequently leads to "gut stasis", an important factor in the pathogenesis of this disease. It may occur in young kids when they are consuming considerable quantities of grain, but are still getting plenty of milk. Other factors which may predispose young or adult goats to enterotoxaemia are excess concentrate feed intake, sudden access to palatable feed, or changes in feed or forages offered.
Goats must be vaccinated against enterotoxemia and tetanus. This is often referred to as a CDT shot. Some veterinarians recommend vaccination every six months for goats. Follow the directions of your veterinarian.
Supplemental selenium should be provided either in the feed/mineral mix or by injection of 5 mg selenium (BoSe) four to six weeks prior to kidding. This is particularly important in selenium-deficient areas. Deficiencies of this important trace mineral are thought to contribute to an increased rate of retained placenta in does.
White Muscle Disease (WMD), a degenerative disease of muscle tissues, is frequently observed in kids raised in geographical areas where selenium is either deficient or unavailable in the soil. Kids affected with WMD often appear "stiff". Many will "arch" their backs and assume a noticeably abnormal posture when standing. This disease can be treated if diagnosed early enough but prevention through timely selenium injections and feed supplementation is best. Current recommendations for young kids are an initial injection of 1 mg selenium (BoSe) at one week of age which should be repeated at weaning.

http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/an_sci/extension/animal/meatgoat/mgvaccinations.html

http://www.sheepandgoat.com/articles/generalhealthcare.html
http://www.saanendoah.com/copper1.html
http://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/selenium.asp

http://www.saanendoah.com/map1.html

http://www.ruralheritage.com/vet_clinic/selenium.htm

Does at Kidding Time:How much time and human contact you give your does and new born kids will depend on your goat operation. There is no right or wrong, you decide what works the best for you and your goats.
If you can try to be around at kidding time, it is one of the greatest parts of raising goats. Plan to watch from a distance to avoid stressing the doe. Relax and let your healthy doe have some time to do what she is built to do. When the doe starts to push notice the time and wait. Give the doe an hour of pushing before you even think about intervening.
After the kids have hit the ground don’t be in a hurry to get involved. Let the doe clean them and talk to them. The doe with all her licking will break off the umbilical cord, stimulate them to get up and find food. If an hour passes without the kid successfully nursing you will need to intervene. Examine the doe’s teats to make sure there is milk, remove any wax plug and spray a little milk on the kid’s nose. Cold kids that will not suck must be warmed up first. If all attempts to help the kid suck fail, you will need to use a feeding tube. (This is not as hard at it seems but it does require hands on learning. Find someone to teach you how to do this).
Weak kids at birth that can’t get to the dinner bucket on their own should be noted and not kept for breeding. Also feed and mineral intake for your does should be evaluated before breeding again. Does that routinely have weak kids should be culled.
Bring warm water, a little grain and hay to the new mother, good mothering instincts will keep the doe away from the rest of the goats for a few days.
Young does with twins can get a little confused with two wet screaming things coming at them from all sides, if you see a doe starting to reject one of the kids you will have to place her in a small pen with the kids for 3-4 days. Rarely do healthy cashmere does and kids need help, those are the keepers. Does that experience kidding problems routinely should be culled.
Does with triplets require an extended time in a jug (kidding pen) to ensure that all kids are getting their needed nutrition and that everyone has bonded, most triplets need to be supplemented with a bottle.
If you can’t solve a kidding problem call your veterinarian.
http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/an_sci/extension/animal/meatgoat/MGBrdKidd.htm

Management of Kids from Birth to WeaningThere is really no need to spend hours and hours at the barn waiting for kids to be born if you are raising healthy strong does. A check in the evening, the early morning, and when you feel the need too during the day should be all that is required. Most of us have a life to live along side our goat life so it is important to raise goats that are hardy, able to give birth and take care of the kids without human intervention.
Again how much time and human contact you give your new born kids will depend on your goat operation. You decide what works the best for you and your goats.

Kidding Kit
Things to have in your pockets are:
Small hanging fish scale
Plastic shopping bags
Small note book and pencil
Ear tags and applicator
Iodine for dipping the navels.
BoSe and syringes
Now you are prepared to tag, dip, weigh, record, and vaccinate kids as you find them.

In the event of a kidding problem, you also want to have:

Kid size feeding tub
Warming box
Elbow length delivery gloves
Colostrum
Old towels
KY jelly
Veterinarian’s phone number.

Nutrition of KidsKids begin nibbling at feed very young. Provide an area where the kids can get to small amounts of hay without being knocked around by the does. Start introducing grains very slowly,remove any grain that is not eaten in 20 minutes to avoid mold.
Creep feeding should be kept to a minimum as studies have shown that animals fed concentrates while young do not develop the stomach capacity needed later in life to process large amounts of forage/hay.
We have found that training kids in the first year to come to grain is a great help when we want to bring them in from the pasture.

Parasites in KidsCocidia is a concern with young kids that are in confinement or under intensive grazing systems.
Outbreaks of coccidiosis are caused by poor sanitation, overcrowding (or overstocking), and stress. Consequently, coccidiosis can be controlled by good sanitation, clean water, not feeding on the ground, and not overstocking pens and pastures. Disease outbreaks can be prevented by administering Corid (Amprolium) in the water supply or by including a coccidiostat in the feed or mineral. Rumensin (monensin) and Deccox are FDA-approved to prevent coccidiosis in goats. Outbreaks of coccidiosis can be treated with sulfa drugs and Corid.
See Web-Sites under Parasites.

Vaccinations of Kids
Kid goats do not need to be wormed or vaccinated for enterotoxemia or tetanus when they are born. Kids from does that were vaccinated 2-6 weeks before kidding needn’t be vaccinated for enterotoxemia and tetanus until 10-12 weeks old and then with the a booster in 6 weeks.
Those living in selenium deficient regions may need to administer ½ cc BoSe to each kid at birth, ½ cc syringes used by humans are great for new born kids. The selenium must be room temperature or it becomes too thick to draw.
See Web-Sites under Vaccinations.

Cautions and ConcernsDo not use shavings as bedding with young kids, kids tend to nibble on every thing, any thing no matter how small hanging out of a young kid’s mouth should be investigated, open their mouth and get a good look at their throat to make sure it is clear, we saved a number of kids by doing this.
We learned from a sage sheep rancher at a lambing school that as you walk though your goats consider any kid laying down a problem kid and make them get up and move. Doing this has disturbed lots of kids but has helped save a few that were not thriving for one reason or other. Also listen for kids that cry an unusual amount, they may not be getting adequate milk. Check out the kid and the doe.
Secure all plywood, panels, and buckets, these things if not secure can become death traps in an instant. ****

OFFF LIVE GOAT SHOW RESULTS

2008-09-21T14:36:00.000-07:00

2008
Judge: Mickey Nielsen
2007
Judge: Kris McGuire

Champion Kid Buck:
Res. Champion Kid Buck: Liberty Stanford, Liberty Farm

Champion Wether

Reserve Champion Junior Doe:

GrandChampion Doe:
Liberty Seattle, Liberty Farm

Res. GrandChampion Doe:

2006
Judge Cynthia Heeren
Show Results Provided by Show Chairperson Lisa Zietz

Champion Wether: Sun Up Farm
Res. Champion Wether: DenWally Farm #0029

Champion Kid Buck: Liberty Farm #WA2128117 Liberty Sam
Res. Champion Kid Buck: Jesara Farm

Champion Jr Doe: DenWally Farm #0040 Hope
Res. Jr. Doe: Moon Shadow Farm #75

Grand Champion Doe: Liberty Farm #NLF32 Liberty Seattle
Res. Grand Champion Doe: Denwally Farm #0004 Barbara Anne

Best Fleece in Show: Liberty Farm #NLF32 Liberty Seattle

OFFF Fiber Competition: Judge Sally McCarrick
Judges Choice Award Cashmere Fleece: Liberty Seattle

2005
Champion Junior Doe Liberty Dorie WA2128NLF73 owned by Cliff & Mickey Nielsen, Liberty Farm and Reserve Champion Junior Doe Liberty Nana WA2128NLF88 owned by Nora Hagenhofer.
Carol & Carrie Spencer of Foxmoor Farm won Best Cashmere Fleece at the Oregon Flock & Fiber Festival.

Grand Champion Doe; Liberty Seattle WA2128NLF32 owned by Cliff & Mickey Nielsen, Liberty Farm and Reserved Champion Doe; Barbara Anne, owned by Denita Wallace, Denwally Farm.
Champion Buck: Liberty Snoopy WA2128NLF57 and Reserve Champion Buck Liberty Jerry WA2128NLF71, owned by Cliff & Mickey Nielsen, Liberty Farm

2004
Judge: Kris McGuire

Champion Kid Buck:
GrandChampion Doe: Liberty Starr, Liberty Farm