A major concern that is voiced by myself and others repeatedly in this industry is the confusion of what cashmere is; and who/what has set the definition of what CASHMERE is or is not. Since I started on this journey to produce cashmere to the present time I have not seen a change in WHAT cashmere is from those who have defined it. What we have seen is more clarity in the definition from research in the USA, and Australia. For example; crimp, also called style or curvature. (I will call it curvature as this is what the testing facilities call it.)
Curvature has always been a factor in the definition of cashmere, now we have available to us a simple test to measure the curvature of our fiber, and studies have been done that have shown the cutoff point between cashmere and cashgora. This is great news, and we should all use this resource to help evaluate our fleece. Along this same line is the studies of resistance to compression and how it affects the finale feel of the product. These are interesting studies that challenge some of our beliefs about curvature. Is more curvature always better?
Sadly all too often I see goats that are producing a wonderful amount of fuzz being bought and sold as cashmere, but to the trained eye upon inspecting the fuzz it is a cashgora type fleece. This is great spinning fiber, but it is not cashmere! We must all do more to educate ourselves to what cashmere is and is not. It is a major disservice to the industry when goats that are producing something other than cashmere are sold as cashmere producing goats. I would encourage you to formulate a farm plan, to test your harvested fleece, and at the very least send your fleece in to an association sponsored show where it can be evaluated by someone with experience with cashmere fiber.
Please do be wary of shows that do not have experienced cashmere judges. For those of you that are new in this cashmere adventure be smart, ask for test results. Have a farm plan, educate yourself before you purchase goats. Talk to two or three established producers. You will find that we are willing to educate and help. I hope you will find a wealth of information to consider and to learn from in this issue. Mickey Nielsen
The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI)
Background and History
The Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI) is an international trade association representing the interests of producers and manufacturers of camel hair and cashmere fiber, yarn, fabric and garments throughout the world. Formed in 1984 as the Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute of America, the Institute changed its name in 1990 to better reflect the international character of its membership and activities. Today, the Institute is the leading authority on domestic and international issues concerning these luxury fibers and advises on labeling, international standards, supply and market trends.
The goal of the Institute is to promote and protect the image and integrity of camel hair and cashmere textile products. This is accomplished through:
• Government relations
• Product testing
• Media relations
• Industry relations
GOVERNMENT RELATIONS
CCMI represents the interest of members at both national and international levels and works with appropriate government bodies whose activities affect the industry.
PRODUCT TESTING
CCMI monitors the marketplace for mislabeled camel hair or cashmere garments and provides a free fiber content testing service for CCMI members,
manufacturers and retailers to determine if products are accurately labeled. This service is not available to consumers.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
CCMI actively works with trade and consumer media to communicate to the business community and general public about trends and issues facing the camel hair and cashmere industry and its products.
INDUSTRY RELATIONS
CCMI provides a forum for industry leaders world-wide to meet and discuss important issues and to identify workable solutions for the common good of the industry.
CCMI's staff offers professional consulting services and advice on issues specific to the camel hair and cashmere industries including government relations, international standards, supply and market trends.
Definition of Cashmere
The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute defines cashmere as:
• The fine (dehaired) undercoat fibers produced by a Cashmere goat (Capra hircus laniger).
• The fiber is generally non-medullated and has a mean maximum diameter of 19 microns. The co-efficient of variation around the mean shall not exceed 24%. There can be no more than 3% (by weight) of cashmere fibers over 30 microns. (Reference IWTO Test Method 8-89).
The U.S. Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, as amended, (U.S.C. 15 Section 68b(a)(6)) defines cashmere as:
1. (A) the fine (dehaired) undercoat fibers produced by a cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger);
2. (B) the average diameter of the fiber of such wool product not exceeding 19 microns; and
3. (C) containing not more than 3 percent (by weight) of cashmere fibers with average diameters that exceed 30 microns. The average fiber diameter may be subject to a coefficient of variation around the mean that shall not exceed 24 percent.
Mislabeling - The Key Concern
• CCMI came into existence to combat the influx of garments being sold in the USA claiming to be genuine cashmere, but in reality, were not.
• The problem of mislabeled cashmere has and continues to tarnish the reputation of the product itself, as well as the companies who make and sell the garments.
• Demand for cashmere continues to grow world-wide. As a result, demand for raw material continues to rise and so does the price.
• The increased competition and demand for fiber has resulted in increased product contamination. Sheep wool is being blended with dehaired cashmere and the fibers are being sold as 100% cashmere. These stocks are being sold to Chinese sweater mills as well to Western buyers. As a result, more mislabeled garments are expected to be found in retail stores.
• Cashmere is a rare and expensive luxury fiber and there is a great incentive for unscrupulous manufacturers and vendors to cheat on the amount of the fibers in a garment.
Consumer Fraud: What Can You Do?
• Become familiar with the real thing. Watch out for so-called bargains and look for genuine quality behind the label.
• When shopping for cashmere or cashmere blend garments, check the loop labels and hang tags for cashmere percentage. Sometimes retailers use sleeve hang tags that read "Cashmere" or Cashmere blend", but the garments only have 10% or less cashmere. Without a statement of actual fiber percentages, this is a violation of the Wool Products Labeling Act, enforced by Federal Trade Commission, and it is deceptive advertising.
If you suspect consumer fraud, please contact the Federal Trade Commission, your State Attorney General's office of Consumer Fraud or your local Better Business Bureau.***
Cashmere Fibre Crimp, Crimp Form and Fibre Curvature
Bruce A. McGregor, Primary Industries Research Victoria
SUGGESTED CITATION:
Bruce A. McGregor (2007) "Cashmere Fibre Crimp, Crimp Form And Fibre Curvature", International Journal of Sheep and Wool Science: Vol. 55: No. 1, Paper 8, pp. 106-129.
http://sheepjournal.une.edu.au/sheepjournal/vol55/iss1/paper8
Raw cashmere samples collected from animals in China, Iran and Australia were measured for crimp frequency, crimp form, fibre curvature and other attributes. Eleven different forms of cashmere fibre crimp including straight cashmere fibres were observed. Different cashmere crimp forms appear related to different origins of cashmere. For some origins (China, Australia) the crimp form was primarily of uniplanar sinusoidal form, while for other origins (Iran) the crimp form was primarily three dimensional. Fibre curvature was highly correlated to visually measured cashmere fibre crimp frequency. Multiple regression analysis showed that cashmere fibre crimp frequency was best predicted by objective fibre curvature measurement. There were different relationships between mean fibre diameter (MFD) and fibre curvature for cashmere of different origins. As total fibre curvature (fibre curvature x fibre length) increased, cashmere fibre length (mm/(MFD x MFD)) increased. Objective fibre curvature measurement enabled the rapid measurement of a fundamental property of cashmere fibre, the fibre crimp frequency. The predominant form of fibre crimping for cashmere derived from a particular origin together with the low rate of fibre crimping would explain the low resistance to compression of cashmere and the differences in resistance to compression of cashmere between different countries. The crimp frequency versus fibre curvature relationship for cashmere was quite strong even though it covered a different range of values that have been observed in wool. The results are placed into context with a brief review of the accepted science of wool fibre crimping, processing and fabric handle. ***
Softness Attributes of Australian Cashmere
Bruce McGregor, Attwood
Updated: January 2007
Introduction
Cashmere is a luxury fibre regarded as being softer and more comfortable than other apparel fibres.
Cashmere is rare. Total cashmere production represents less than 0.01% of the textile market.
Processed cashmere is expensive. Specialized skills and equipment are required for processing cashmere.
For such an expensive textile raw material, surprisingly little objective information has been published on measurable attributes of cashmere in the form used by spinners.
This article discusses new information about the softness and other quality attributes of Australian cashmere. Comparisons are made between Australian cashmere and cashmere from traditional sources of supply.
Objective quality attributes of cashmere
The major quality attributes of raw cashmere fleece include: fibre diameter, freedom from fine medullated fibres, fibre length, fibre colour and freedom from contamination (vegetable fault, man made fibres).
Each of these quality attributes affects the speed of processing, processing yield, yarn and fabric quality. Most of these attributes are, or can be, objectively measured. There is little published information about many of the objective properties of Australian cashmere compared to the properties of traditional cashmere.
Softness
In the textbook on Textile Fibres von Bergen (1954) states “From time immemorial cashmere has been regarded as one of nature’s choicest products for its softness affords the wearer an extravagance of comfort and its superb soft texture brings to the garment all that may be desired in real elegance and distinction”. This is still the view of cashmere.
Softness, as it relates to textiles, means that a product yields to pressure or is easily deformed. The “handle” of a textile product is frequently equated with the softness of the textile.
While cashmere is regarded as one of the softest textile fibres, until recently there has been no reliable objective information on the measurement of softness in cashmere.
This article provides new objective information on the softness of cashmere.
Softness is a different property to prickle discomfort. Prickle discomfort can be evaluated using easily obtained measurements of fibre diameter distribution. This topic is discussed elsewhere in relation to cashmere (McGregor 1997). As a general rule, prickle discomfort is not an issue with Australian cashmere. Prickle discomfort can be reduced by lowering of the spinning fineness and the coefficient of variation of mean fibre diameter in Australian cashmere in order to produce finer processing fibre that will provide more comfortable handling textiles.
Research approach
Samples
Samples from more than 140 lots of commercially dehaired cashmere and cashmere tops were obtained from manufacturers in Europe, Iran, China, Australia and other countries. Fibre classed as Cashgora by cashmere marketing agencies in Australia, New Zealand and the USA has been grouped together. Core samples taken from bales of raw cashmere prepared for sale by the Australian Cashmere Marketing Corporation (ACMC) were obtained.
Cashmere samples from a range of nutrition experiments and from samples collected from goats in various Asian countries were also studied.
Procedures
Mean fibre diameter (MFD) and diameter distribution (coefficient of variation (CV(D), % of fibres coarser than 30 µm and that of cashgora samples from 17.8 to 22.7 µm increased and the incidence of medullated fibres (hair fibres) increased.
In white dehaired cashmere the median values for the medullated fibre were: medullated fibre diameter 32.3
Findings
The mean fibre curvature of dehaired cashmere was 61 degrees/mm with a range from 44 to 80 degrees/mm (Figure 1). This compared to Merino wool that ranged from 70 to 140 degrees/mm.
After adjustment for dehairing processor effect, cashmere from new origins had significantly lower fibre curvature than cashmere from Iran, East and Western Asia (Figure 1).
Cashgora samples had the lowest mean fibre curvature of 36 degrees/mm with a range from 24 to 46 degrees/mm.
Following adjustment for the effect of dehairing processor there was no overlap in the range of fibre curvature between cashgora and cashmere (Figure 1).
Figure 1 Distribution of the mean fibre diameter (MFD), fibre curvature and resistance to compression (Rc)
attributes of dehaired cashmere from different origins and cashgora, after adjustment for processor effect.
See legend for origin.
Explanation
Why would cashmere from Australia have a lower fibre curvature? In Australian goats, cashmere fibre curvature was dependent on nutrition. Better fed goats grew more cashmere that was longer and had lower fibre curvature compared with poorly fed goats that grew less cashmere that was shorter and had higher fibre curvature (Figure 2). In both Australian and Chinese cashmere, finer cashmere and shorter cashmere had higher fibre curvature than coarser cashmere.
Figure 2. The relationship between cashmere production
of Australian cashmere goats and cashmere fibre curvature. Data points are for different nutrition treatments.
The results indicate that during a growing season only a certain number of crimps are produced. Thus if goats are poorly fed, the cashmere will be finer and more crimped.
Resistance to compression
Definition
Resistance to compression is the force required to compress a mass of fibre to a given volume. Reducing resistance to compression results in softer handle. In Merino wools, typical values range from 8 to 13 kPa.
Findings
The resistance to compression of the dehaired cashmere overlapped substantially between origin of cashmere. Iranian cashmere showed the highest median value and the largest variation (Figure 1).
Cashmere from Australia and other new origins had the lowest resistance to compression values recorded for cashmere.
Cashgora had significantly higher resistance to compression compared to new origin cashmere.
Increasing fibre curvature was strongly correlated with increasing resistance to compression.
Implications
It is possible to differentiate the cashmere produced in different regions of the world on the basis of the fibre attributes of the cashmere (Figure 1). By plotting any two of mean fibre diameter, fibre curvature and resistance to compression, cashmere from different producing regions segregate into distinct groupings.
It was possible to segregate cashgora from cashmere even though the finest cashgora has a similar fibre diameter to that of Iranian cashmere, as cashgora had a fibre curvature of less than 45 deg./mm and cashmere had fibre curvatures greater than 45 deg./mm.
As lower resistance to compression is related to softness of handle, then cashmere from Australia and other new origins of production has softer handle than cashmere from traditional origins of production.
Fibre length
Findings
The length of dehaired cashmere from new origins was up to 20% longer than that of cashmere from traditional origins (Figure 3).
As the mean fibre diameter of dehaired cashmere increased there was a correlated increase in the length of dehaired cashmere.
Implications
This data indicates that dehaired cashmere from Australia is longer and finer than cashmere from the origins traditionally used for worsted processing.
Figure 3. Box plots of the fibre length of dehaired
cashmere from different origins and dehaired cashgora
showing the median, upper and lower quartiles with outliers.
Bundle tenacity and extension
Importance
The bundle strength of tops is rated as the third most important fibre property after mean fibre diameter and fibre length, in terms of its importance with respect to yarn strength and the speed of processing operations.
In the dehairing of cashmere, repeated mechanical action results in fibre breakage. As a consequence, most dehaired cashmere is only of sufficient length to be spun on the woollen system. Higher tenacity and more extensible fibres result in less fibre breakage and the potential use of the fibre in the worsted spinning system.
Findings
The data show that cashmere from Australia and cashgora have superior bundle tenacity and bundle extension (Figure 4) than cashmere from Iran, Western Asia and China.
Figure 4. Box plots of bundle extension of dehaired cashmere from different origins and dehaired cashgora (CG) showing the median, upper and lower quartiles and outliers (IR = Iran, WA = Western Asia, CH = China, CA = Central Asia, AU = Australia, US = United States of America).
Color
The variation of lightness and yellowness of white cashmere was large and of commercial significance for dyers (Figure 5).
The range in lightness of white samples between origins was similar. The within origin range in lightness and yellowness of “white” commercial lots was of commercial significance.
Figure 5. Box plots of lightness and yellowness of dehaired white cashmere from different origins and dehaired white cashgora after adjustment for processor effect.
Natural contaminants
Commercial bales of Australian cashmere have relatively low levels of natural extraneous matter compared with traditional supplies from China. The composition of typical raw commercial main line Australian cashmere can be summarised as: guard hair 44.3%, cashmere 28.5%, moisture 17%, suint 4.2%, grease 3.0%, soil 2%, vegetable matter 0.9%, other impurities
Prediction of Cashmere Style Using Objective Fiber Measurements
C.J. Lupton, F. A. Pfeiffer, and A.R. Dooling
1999
Notice from editor: this not the complete report (as I only have it in hard copy, can’t cut and paste). If you would like a hard copy please do ask and it will be mailed to you.
Introduction
Cashmere style is an ill-defined but important characteristic of raw cashmere. Early attempts to define style invariably resulted in some objections from one segment of the industry or another. A definition of “good style” that has received some degree of acceptance in the U.S. is as follows: Cashmere of good style has irregular crimp of relatively small magnitude and high frequency that does not lie in two dimensions but rather changes directions at irregular intervals along the length of individual fibers. (Lupton,1991). Straight fibers or those containing bold (mohair-like) or two-dimensional crimp (like some fine wools) are considered to have poor style….
Cashmere style is considered to be important by processors for several reasons: first, it distinguishes cashmere from other fine fibers; secondly, it affects the efficiency of the dehairing process and other mechanical processes up to spinning; and thirdly, it affects the hand (feel) of the finished fabric. Since cashmere goats were introduced into the U.S. in 1989, assessment of cashmere style has also been influenced (to varying degrees) by amount of luster in the down fibers, fleece color, down yield, average fiber diameter, and length of guard hair and down fibers. Intensive training is required for developing the ability to consistently and accurately assess style. Regular practice using fleeces of established style score is necessary for the classer to retain the acquired skill. There has been a need to develop a method for objectively measuring cashmere style….
Implications
If the significant relationship between cashmere style score and fiber curvature holds true for cashmere classers, then we will have discovered a simple, objective, potentially inexpensive, and likely a more consistent way to estimate cashmere style score. The average fiber curvature (AFC) measurement should be inexpensive because it can be obtained concurrently with the down average fiber diameter (AFD) measurement using the optical fibre diameter analyser (OFDA) while incurring no extra cost. Such a measurement would be very useful to the many cashmere breeders who have not undergone the intensive training required to become a cashmere classer or who have undergone the training but failed to develop or maintain the necessary skill.***
Dr. Chris Lupton
Professor, Animal Fiber Research
Texas A & M University Agricultural Research and Extension Center, San Angelo
(325) 653-4576, Extension 234
c-lupton@tamu.edu
Job Tasks: Research with Wool, Mohair, and Cashmere and other animal fibers.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR BEFORE YOU BUY
1. Crimp/style/curvature: Crimp defines cashmere
2. Length: Without length you have nothing.
3. Definition: Makes dehairing possible
4. Handle: I know it when I feel it (oh so soft)
5. Lack of Luster: Avoids angora infusion
6. Micron: Above qualities; the micron will follow.
7. Breeding: Buy what you see not pedigree
Showing posts with label The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute. Show all posts
8.6.09
HISTORY OF AMERICAN CASHMERE
THE CASHMERE PRODUCING GOAT
History of Cashmere Goats
Hardy multi purpose goats have been bred and used by the native people of Central Asia for hundred of years, the extremely fine, soft under-down these goats grow (cashmere) is highly prized for the making of incredibly soft, light and warm garments. Europeans "discovered" the fiber, notably in the so called Ring Shawl. These soft, warm shawls were so fine they could be pulled through a wedding ring, hence the name. Some reports have the Western world's demand for this fiber beginning when Napoleon brought back a ring shawl for his wife Josephine. Regardless of when the craze began, cashmere remains the ultimate in luxury fiber.
In the 1970s, scientists in Australia started breeding feral goats for cashmere production. The project was quite successful, and other countries took note. Scotland and the United States also started breeding cashmere producing goats in the 1980s, using genetics from Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania, as well as other regions. In the US the feral Spanish meat goats were used in the breeding program, after careful selection for fiber traits. There are variations in the appearance of the Cashmere herds in different countries, as they each have their own unique genetic make-up. However, they all share the ability to grow significant volumes of the very fine, crimpy, soft under-down. Farmers in Canada started their herds in the late '80s and early '90s using genetics from Australia and the US.
The Cashmere Goat
Cashmere goats in Canada and the US are goats which have been specifically bred for the cashmere fiber. The amount and quality of the fiber is vastly superior to goats not specifically bred for cashmere fiber production.
Angora goats produce mohair, but will not produce cashmere. Attempts were made to breed Angoras to cashmere producing goats to increase yield. What resulted was a long, wavy, lustrous, coarser fiber that can’t be called cashmere, hence the term cashgora from the combination of the goat names. Cashgora is, broadly speaking, fleece with three fiber components: coarse guard hair, a fine (crinkled) down or "cash" portion and the longer shiny and straighter "intermediate" fiber or "gora" component - the so called third fiber. There must be a down component. The term cashgora sometimes is also used to describe fiber that is over 19 microns. Goats that produce cashgora do not easily shed, and require shearing as a harvest method. Most cashmere breeders find a tendency to produce cashgora undesirable in their goats.
What is noticeable in Cashmere goats is the diversity of appearance. There are similarities too: they tend to have wide horns, blocky builds, and refined features. However, they come in all different colors, which make a herd of Cashmere goats appear like quite an assortment. White tends to be dominant, but black, brown, red, cream, gray, and badger faced are very common. They also may have either long or short guard hair. What matters is not the color or length of the guard hair, but the quality and quantity of the down underneath, and the size and correct build of the animal.
Cashmere goats are judged 50% on fiber and 50% on body. Cashmere goats are generally raised as a dual purpose animal; for fiber and chevron (goat meat). Producing two commercial crops instead of one adds to their attraction as a productive and sustainable agricultural animal. Some breeders also breed for milk production.
Cashmere goats tend to be alert and wary, rather than docile and placid. These traits are largely due to their feral ancestry, relatively only a few generations back. They also tend to be very easy kidders and good moms.
The Cashmere Fiber
Cashmere is a name for a very specific fiber, rather than the name of the animal it comes from. This is unique in the animal fiber community and is, in part, what makes cashmere the fiber that other fibers are so frequently compared to; as in: "As soft as cashmere".
The fleece of the Cashmere goat is made up of two very distinct types of fiber. One is the fine under down which is the source of luxurious fiber for sweaters and suiting “cashmere”. The other is the coarse guard hair. Guard hair can be long or short; there must be good differentiation between the guard hair and the cashmere (down). Be weary of goats that do not show these two types of fiber.
To be classed as cashmere the under down has to meet certain criteria set by the textile industry. These standards vary somewhat from country to country but in general the fiber must be:
1) Under 18.5 (+- .5) microns for adult animals, kids should be finer; a micron is one-millionth of a meter (a meter is about a yard), so each fiber is very, very fine. For comparison, a human hair can range from 17 to 181 microns in diameter. It is desirable to have a fleece with an even diameter from neck to breech.
2) Staple length longer than 1 ¼ inches; this is necessary for processing the down through machinery. Staple length is an important factor, contributing to the total down weight, (TDW); it must be a strong consideration for superior selection.
3) Have crimp its entire length: this is different than crimp looked for in sheep’s wool which is very uniform along the staple, cashmere crimp is a crazy individual fiber crimp. The crimpiness of the fiber gives it “loft” and enables garments made of cashmere to provide warmth without weight.
4) Low to no luster.
So although many goats might have a fine under down, it might not meet the requirement to be classed as cashmere.
Other desirable traits to look for in the under down “cashmere” are;
1) Density, combined with good staple length, is a highly desirable characteristic. A dense fleece will exhibit compactness and feel thicker, ("wool like"). Density also contributes to TDW.
2) Handle; Cashmere is warm and extremely soft to touch. Combined with warmth and lightness, handle is the "selling point” for Cashmere garments.
The total down weight (TDW) produced depends on the diameter; (the larger the diameter the heaver the weight), the length of the fiber; (quality cashmere is normally within the range of 1 ½ - 2 ½ inches, and the overall down density and coverage on the goat. Selective breeding for these traits is what makes for greater TDW. Goats with no selective breeding may produce only 1-2 ounces (30-55 grams) of raw down, but a goat selectively bred can produce as much as 4-6 ounces (145-170 grams) of raw cashmere annually.
To assess a cashmere fleece, breeders should have a laboratory do a "histogram" This is a measurement of the mean fiber diameter of thousands of fibers from the animal. This, along with a fleece grading from someone experienced in cashmere classification, are tools used in breeding programs to develop and maintain a herd of Cashmere goats.
Commercially there are three grades of cashmere; Premium below 16 microns, 16 to 16.6 micron and 16.7 to 18.5 micron.
Cashmere comes in a variety of colors from pure white to cream to soft grays and browns. A black goat (black guard hair) would produce a soft gray or brown cashmere.
Counterfeit Cashmere?!
Cashmere is an extremely valuable fiber. It is very light in weight, and each goat only produces a few ounces a year. Because of its value, there is a real concern with products being sold as cashmere, when they are not. The demand for cashmere continues to grow globally, which adds to its value and the problem with mislabeled products. Wool and other fibers are frequently blended with the cashmere, and sold as 100% cashmere.
The marketing term "Pashmina" is often confused with cashmere. Pashmina is not a legal fiber term for labeling purposes, but instead is an Indian word used to describe cashmere in India and Nepal. Often items sold as "Pashmina" are a blend of silk and cashmere; however there is no guarantee or requirement that they have any cashmere in them. "Buyer Beware" is good advice for those investing in a cashmere garment or yarns. For more information on what to be aware of regarding fraud and the mislabeling of cashmere, check out the web page of the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI).
Chevron
Goat meat is regularly enjoyed in most regions of the world: the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Middle East, Latin America, and Asia. The demand for goat meat continually increases in Canada and the United States. The Cashmere goats, with their Spanish meat goat ancestry, perform well as a meat goat. The strengths they bring are their fertility, easy kidding, good mothering and fast rate of gain. They are often used in commercial meat goat operations for just these reasons.
The dual purpose nature of these animals allows the producer to raise Cashmere goats commercially, and profitably. The demand for meat also allows producers to keep the quality of their cashmere high: it provides a solid market for animals with inferior fleeces. References: The Canadian Cashmere Producers, The Australian Cashmere Growers Association Ltd., The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, The Cashmere Goat Registry, The Goat Notes, The Eastern Cashmere Association, The Northwest Cashmere Association.*
History of Cashmere Goats
Hardy multi purpose goats have been bred and used by the native people of Central Asia for hundred of years, the extremely fine, soft under-down these goats grow (cashmere) is highly prized for the making of incredibly soft, light and warm garments. Europeans "discovered" the fiber, notably in the so called Ring Shawl. These soft, warm shawls were so fine they could be pulled through a wedding ring, hence the name. Some reports have the Western world's demand for this fiber beginning when Napoleon brought back a ring shawl for his wife Josephine. Regardless of when the craze began, cashmere remains the ultimate in luxury fiber.
In the 1970s, scientists in Australia started breeding feral goats for cashmere production. The project was quite successful, and other countries took note. Scotland and the United States also started breeding cashmere producing goats in the 1980s, using genetics from Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania, as well as other regions. In the US the feral Spanish meat goats were used in the breeding program, after careful selection for fiber traits. There are variations in the appearance of the Cashmere herds in different countries, as they each have their own unique genetic make-up. However, they all share the ability to grow significant volumes of the very fine, crimpy, soft under-down. Farmers in Canada started their herds in the late '80s and early '90s using genetics from Australia and the US.
The Cashmere Goat
Cashmere goats in Canada and the US are goats which have been specifically bred for the cashmere fiber. The amount and quality of the fiber is vastly superior to goats not specifically bred for cashmere fiber production.
Angora goats produce mohair, but will not produce cashmere. Attempts were made to breed Angoras to cashmere producing goats to increase yield. What resulted was a long, wavy, lustrous, coarser fiber that can’t be called cashmere, hence the term cashgora from the combination of the goat names. Cashgora is, broadly speaking, fleece with three fiber components: coarse guard hair, a fine (crinkled) down or "cash" portion and the longer shiny and straighter "intermediate" fiber or "gora" component - the so called third fiber. There must be a down component. The term cashgora sometimes is also used to describe fiber that is over 19 microns. Goats that produce cashgora do not easily shed, and require shearing as a harvest method. Most cashmere breeders find a tendency to produce cashgora undesirable in their goats.
What is noticeable in Cashmere goats is the diversity of appearance. There are similarities too: they tend to have wide horns, blocky builds, and refined features. However, they come in all different colors, which make a herd of Cashmere goats appear like quite an assortment. White tends to be dominant, but black, brown, red, cream, gray, and badger faced are very common. They also may have either long or short guard hair. What matters is not the color or length of the guard hair, but the quality and quantity of the down underneath, and the size and correct build of the animal.
Cashmere goats are judged 50% on fiber and 50% on body. Cashmere goats are generally raised as a dual purpose animal; for fiber and chevron (goat meat). Producing two commercial crops instead of one adds to their attraction as a productive and sustainable agricultural animal. Some breeders also breed for milk production.
Cashmere goats tend to be alert and wary, rather than docile and placid. These traits are largely due to their feral ancestry, relatively only a few generations back. They also tend to be very easy kidders and good moms.
The Cashmere Fiber
Cashmere is a name for a very specific fiber, rather than the name of the animal it comes from. This is unique in the animal fiber community and is, in part, what makes cashmere the fiber that other fibers are so frequently compared to; as in: "As soft as cashmere".
The fleece of the Cashmere goat is made up of two very distinct types of fiber. One is the fine under down which is the source of luxurious fiber for sweaters and suiting “cashmere”. The other is the coarse guard hair. Guard hair can be long or short; there must be good differentiation between the guard hair and the cashmere (down). Be weary of goats that do not show these two types of fiber.
To be classed as cashmere the under down has to meet certain criteria set by the textile industry. These standards vary somewhat from country to country but in general the fiber must be:
1) Under 18.5 (+- .5) microns for adult animals, kids should be finer; a micron is one-millionth of a meter (a meter is about a yard), so each fiber is very, very fine. For comparison, a human hair can range from 17 to 181 microns in diameter. It is desirable to have a fleece with an even diameter from neck to breech.
2) Staple length longer than 1 ¼ inches; this is necessary for processing the down through machinery. Staple length is an important factor, contributing to the total down weight, (TDW); it must be a strong consideration for superior selection.
3) Have crimp its entire length: this is different than crimp looked for in sheep’s wool which is very uniform along the staple, cashmere crimp is a crazy individual fiber crimp. The crimpiness of the fiber gives it “loft” and enables garments made of cashmere to provide warmth without weight.
4) Low to no luster.
So although many goats might have a fine under down, it might not meet the requirement to be classed as cashmere.
Other desirable traits to look for in the under down “cashmere” are;
1) Density, combined with good staple length, is a highly desirable characteristic. A dense fleece will exhibit compactness and feel thicker, ("wool like"). Density also contributes to TDW.
2) Handle; Cashmere is warm and extremely soft to touch. Combined with warmth and lightness, handle is the "selling point” for Cashmere garments.
The total down weight (TDW) produced depends on the diameter; (the larger the diameter the heaver the weight), the length of the fiber; (quality cashmere is normally within the range of 1 ½ - 2 ½ inches, and the overall down density and coverage on the goat. Selective breeding for these traits is what makes for greater TDW. Goats with no selective breeding may produce only 1-2 ounces (30-55 grams) of raw down, but a goat selectively bred can produce as much as 4-6 ounces (145-170 grams) of raw cashmere annually.
To assess a cashmere fleece, breeders should have a laboratory do a "histogram" This is a measurement of the mean fiber diameter of thousands of fibers from the animal. This, along with a fleece grading from someone experienced in cashmere classification, are tools used in breeding programs to develop and maintain a herd of Cashmere goats.
Commercially there are three grades of cashmere; Premium below 16 microns, 16 to 16.6 micron and 16.7 to 18.5 micron.
Cashmere comes in a variety of colors from pure white to cream to soft grays and browns. A black goat (black guard hair) would produce a soft gray or brown cashmere.
Counterfeit Cashmere?!
Cashmere is an extremely valuable fiber. It is very light in weight, and each goat only produces a few ounces a year. Because of its value, there is a real concern with products being sold as cashmere, when they are not. The demand for cashmere continues to grow globally, which adds to its value and the problem with mislabeled products. Wool and other fibers are frequently blended with the cashmere, and sold as 100% cashmere.
The marketing term "Pashmina" is often confused with cashmere. Pashmina is not a legal fiber term for labeling purposes, but instead is an Indian word used to describe cashmere in India and Nepal. Often items sold as "Pashmina" are a blend of silk and cashmere; however there is no guarantee or requirement that they have any cashmere in them. "Buyer Beware" is good advice for those investing in a cashmere garment or yarns. For more information on what to be aware of regarding fraud and the mislabeling of cashmere, check out the web page of the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI).
Chevron
Goat meat is regularly enjoyed in most regions of the world: the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Middle East, Latin America, and Asia. The demand for goat meat continually increases in Canada and the United States. The Cashmere goats, with their Spanish meat goat ancestry, perform well as a meat goat. The strengths they bring are their fertility, easy kidding, good mothering and fast rate of gain. They are often used in commercial meat goat operations for just these reasons.
The dual purpose nature of these animals allows the producer to raise Cashmere goats commercially, and profitably. The demand for meat also allows producers to keep the quality of their cashmere high: it provides a solid market for animals with inferior fleeces. References: The Canadian Cashmere Producers, The Australian Cashmere Growers Association Ltd., The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, The Cashmere Goat Registry, The Goat Notes, The Eastern Cashmere Association, The Northwest Cashmere Association.*
PROCESSING AMERICAN CASHMERE
Complying with the Wool Products Labeling Act
Cashmere. The word evokes images of luxury, warmth and softness. The ultra-fine wool, from the undercoat of the Cashmere (or Kashmir) goat, is indeed a premium fiber - one that generally commands a much higher price than sheep's wool.
If you manufacture or sell clothing or household items that contain any wool, including specialty wools like cashmere, camel hair, mohair, alpaca, llama, or vicuna, you must comply with the Wool Products Labeling Act. That means your product labels must accurately reflect the items' fiber content, the country of origin, and the name of the manufacturer or marketer. Apparel items also must be labeled to show a safe cleaning method.
Fiber Content DisclosureProduct labels must reflect the true fiber content of the item. For example, if a sweater is made of wool, it can be labeled as 100% Wool, assuming it contains only wool. Likewise, if a sweater is made only of cashmere, it can be labeled as 100% Cashmere. Cashmere is a type of wool and also can be labeled as wool. If a sweater contains cashmere mixed with sheep’s wool, and the label refers to cashmere, the label must accurately disclose the content, e.g., 80% Wool, 20% Cashmere. It would be illegal to say simply Cashmere or Cashmere blend; the percentages must be stated. There is only one exception to the requirement that percentages be stated: the word All can be used in place of 100% if the product is made of only one fiber, e.g., All Wool or All Cashmere.
If a claim about the fiber content appears elsewhere on the garment, such as on a hangtag or a sleeve label, it must mirror the garment's fiber content label. For example, a coat labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool cannot have a hangtag or a sleeve label stating merely FINE CASHMERE GARMENT or FINE CASHMERE BLEND. In this instance, the hangtag or sleeve label also must say 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool - in equally conspicuous lettering.
The Textile Act allows a three percent tolerance for fiber content claims, but the Wool Products Labeling Act doesn't. However, the Wool Act says that deviation from the stated fiber content is not considered mislabeling if it results from "unavoidable variations" in the manufacturing process that occur despite the exercise of due care. For this reason, the FTC generally will apply the three percent tolerance to wool products. The three percent tolerance does not allow for intentional mislabeling. No tolerance is allowed for a 100% claim, as the addition of another fiber would always be intentional.
Testing is ImportantYou're responsible for label accuracy, even if you import, distribute or sell wool products manufactured by another company. You cannot necessarily rely on an invoice statement that the goods contain a specified amount of cashmere. Routine testing of fiber contents by a qualified, independent testing lab is the best assurance of accurate labels.
A trained expert, using an optical or electron microscope, can distinguish between cashmere fibers and sheep's wool fibers, following procedures established by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) or the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The basic distinction is not only one of diameter, as some sheep have now been bred to produce ultra fine fibers - with a diameter comparable to that of cashmere fibers. There are significant differences in the scale structure of the two fibers, and that is what the test expert looks for under the microscope.
Guaranty of ComplianceIf you buy and resell wool or cashmere products, you can ask your U.S. supplier for a "guaranty of compliance." The guaranty is a written statement on a product invoice or other dated document that states: "We guarantee that the wool products specified herein are not misbranded under the provisions of the Wool Products Labeling Act and rules and regulations thereunder."
In other words, the supplier guarantees that the wool and cashmere products sold to you are correctly labeled under the Wool Labeling Act. The guaranty must have the name and address of the guarantor. A "continuing guaranty", which covers all wool products sold by the guarantor, also can be filed with the FTC. Filing such a guaranty is an assurance by the guarantor that all of its products covered by the Wool Act are correctly labeled. A buyer who in good faith relies upon a properly executed guaranty will not be found in violation of the law if the goods are later determined to be mislabeled. Note, that good faith means acting prudently and not ignoring an indication (such as price or appearance) that an item may not be accurately labeled.
A special note about guaranties and foreign companies: A foreign company cannot file a continuing guaranty with the FTC. In addition, a guaranty from a foreign company is not a legal defense if the importer is charged with mislabeling products. A U.S. importer is legally responsible for the proper labeling of imported textile and wool products. Importers should test the fiber content of imported goods periodically to verify the accuracy of the label.
How Posh is Pashmina?The popularity of products marketed as pashmina - an Indian word for cashmere - has skyrocketed in recent years; yet most consumers aren't sure what pashmina is. That's not surprising, as pashmina is not a labeling term recognized by the Wool Act and rules. Experts tell the FTC there is no pashmina fiber that is separate and distinct from the cashmere fiber.
Cashmere fiber must not exceed 18.5 (+-.5) microns, and must have crimp. This is more of a crazy individual fiber crimp, not a uniform staple crimp you see in sheep’s wool. The fiber length must be a minimum of 1 ¼ after harvested. Dander in a fleece is bad, lice in a fleece is bad. A quality cashmere combed fleece should fill a 2 gallon baggie.
Some manufacturers use the term pashmina to describe an ultra fine cashmere fiber; others use the term to describe a blend of cashmere and silk. The FTC encourages manufacturers and sellers of products described as pashmina to explain to consumers, on a hangtag, for example, what they mean by the term.
As with all other wool products, the fiber content of a shawl, scarf or other item marketed as pashmina must be accurately disclosed. For example, a blend of cashmere and silk might be labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Silk or 70% Cashmere, 30% Silk, depending upon the actual cashmere and silk content. If the item contains only cashmere, it should be labeled 100% Cashmere or All Cashmere. The label cannot say 100% Pashmina, as pashmina is not a fiber recognized by the Wool Act or regulations.
Other RequirementsThe label must state the country of origin and the identity (name or Registered Identification Number - RN) of the manufacturer or another business responsible for marketing the item, in addition to the fiber content. For further information about the labeling of textile and wool products, see the FTC booklet Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts.
Care LabelsApparel care labels are required under the FTC's Care Labeling Rule. For information on complying with this rule, see Writing a Care Label: How to Comply with the Amended Care Labeling Rule.
Dry clean only? Many cashmere items are labeled Dry Clean Only. If your label says Dry Clean Only, you are telling consumers that the item can't be washed safely. To be accurate, you must have proof that the garment will be harmed by washing.
The truth is that many cashmere items can be washed safely at home. A label that says Dry Clean does not warn against washing and does not require proof that washing would harm the item.
For clothing that may be washed or dry cleaned, you must give instructions for at least one cleaning method. Of course, you may provide information about both cleaning methods. Consumers are telling the FTC that's what they want. Many consumers prefer to wash items that can be laundered at home.
For More InformationIf you have further questions about the Textile or Wool Acts, visit the FTC website at http://www.ftc.gov/ on the Web - click on Business Guidance, then Textile, Wool, Fur, & Apparel Matters.
Or call the Textile Information Line: 202-326-3553 (contains recorded information about textile, wool and RN matters)
For copies of this and other publications, contact: Consumer Response Center, Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580; toll-free 1-877-FTC-HELP (382-4357).
For more information about cashmere and other specialty wool products, contact:Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, 230 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02110-2409; http://www.cashmere.org/.
Dander or Lice?
What about the dander or lice in my fleece? Lice are sometimes seen in llama, mohair and alpaca and cashmere. Dander or skin flakes similar to dandruff is occasionally seen in mohair and cashmere goats and in the dual coat wool breeds like Shetland, Icelandic, and Karakul sheep. The good news about lice is they die when they loose their host so we are only seeing the dead nits (or eggs) on the fibers strands. The animal may have had lice at one time, then was wormed or deloused, but the nits are still in the fibers, just dead. Skin flakes or dander can be hereditary or due to a lack of zinc or minerals in the diet. Most common in the dual coat sheep and cashmere goats is skin flakes in the fleece from natural molting or shedding that occurs when the spring weather warms. Often called rooing, this is a normal process where the sheep shed their undercoat. This dander, skin flakes and lice nits can cause problems in a card and at the pin drafting machine. These items do not wash out at scouring so remain in the fiber through the processing. They act like sticky little pieces of gum and adhere to the card combs and the exit rollers on both machines. Then the fibers stick to these exit rollers also which then causes wrapping. So where the exit rollers should be extracting a nicely combed and formed roving, it is actually un-combing the fibers and wrapping them around the rollers. Not all lice or skin flakes create this problem but it occurs in at least half of the cases, with some worse than others. It is always harder to see lice or dander in the white fleeces. These contaminants are much more obvious and visible in the colored fibers.
Cashmere. The word evokes images of luxury, warmth and softness. The ultra-fine wool, from the undercoat of the Cashmere (or Kashmir) goat, is indeed a premium fiber - one that generally commands a much higher price than sheep's wool.
If you manufacture or sell clothing or household items that contain any wool, including specialty wools like cashmere, camel hair, mohair, alpaca, llama, or vicuna, you must comply with the Wool Products Labeling Act. That means your product labels must accurately reflect the items' fiber content, the country of origin, and the name of the manufacturer or marketer. Apparel items also must be labeled to show a safe cleaning method.
Fiber Content DisclosureProduct labels must reflect the true fiber content of the item. For example, if a sweater is made of wool, it can be labeled as 100% Wool, assuming it contains only wool. Likewise, if a sweater is made only of cashmere, it can be labeled as 100% Cashmere. Cashmere is a type of wool and also can be labeled as wool. If a sweater contains cashmere mixed with sheep’s wool, and the label refers to cashmere, the label must accurately disclose the content, e.g., 80% Wool, 20% Cashmere. It would be illegal to say simply Cashmere or Cashmere blend; the percentages must be stated. There is only one exception to the requirement that percentages be stated: the word All can be used in place of 100% if the product is made of only one fiber, e.g., All Wool or All Cashmere.
If a claim about the fiber content appears elsewhere on the garment, such as on a hangtag or a sleeve label, it must mirror the garment's fiber content label. For example, a coat labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool cannot have a hangtag or a sleeve label stating merely FINE CASHMERE GARMENT or FINE CASHMERE BLEND. In this instance, the hangtag or sleeve label also must say 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool - in equally conspicuous lettering.
The Textile Act allows a three percent tolerance for fiber content claims, but the Wool Products Labeling Act doesn't. However, the Wool Act says that deviation from the stated fiber content is not considered mislabeling if it results from "unavoidable variations" in the manufacturing process that occur despite the exercise of due care. For this reason, the FTC generally will apply the three percent tolerance to wool products. The three percent tolerance does not allow for intentional mislabeling. No tolerance is allowed for a 100% claim, as the addition of another fiber would always be intentional.
Testing is ImportantYou're responsible for label accuracy, even if you import, distribute or sell wool products manufactured by another company. You cannot necessarily rely on an invoice statement that the goods contain a specified amount of cashmere. Routine testing of fiber contents by a qualified, independent testing lab is the best assurance of accurate labels.
A trained expert, using an optical or electron microscope, can distinguish between cashmere fibers and sheep's wool fibers, following procedures established by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) or the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The basic distinction is not only one of diameter, as some sheep have now been bred to produce ultra fine fibers - with a diameter comparable to that of cashmere fibers. There are significant differences in the scale structure of the two fibers, and that is what the test expert looks for under the microscope.
Guaranty of ComplianceIf you buy and resell wool or cashmere products, you can ask your U.S. supplier for a "guaranty of compliance." The guaranty is a written statement on a product invoice or other dated document that states: "We guarantee that the wool products specified herein are not misbranded under the provisions of the Wool Products Labeling Act and rules and regulations thereunder."
In other words, the supplier guarantees that the wool and cashmere products sold to you are correctly labeled under the Wool Labeling Act. The guaranty must have the name and address of the guarantor. A "continuing guaranty", which covers all wool products sold by the guarantor, also can be filed with the FTC. Filing such a guaranty is an assurance by the guarantor that all of its products covered by the Wool Act are correctly labeled. A buyer who in good faith relies upon a properly executed guaranty will not be found in violation of the law if the goods are later determined to be mislabeled. Note, that good faith means acting prudently and not ignoring an indication (such as price or appearance) that an item may not be accurately labeled.
A special note about guaranties and foreign companies: A foreign company cannot file a continuing guaranty with the FTC. In addition, a guaranty from a foreign company is not a legal defense if the importer is charged with mislabeling products. A U.S. importer is legally responsible for the proper labeling of imported textile and wool products. Importers should test the fiber content of imported goods periodically to verify the accuracy of the label.
How Posh is Pashmina?The popularity of products marketed as pashmina - an Indian word for cashmere - has skyrocketed in recent years; yet most consumers aren't sure what pashmina is. That's not surprising, as pashmina is not a labeling term recognized by the Wool Act and rules. Experts tell the FTC there is no pashmina fiber that is separate and distinct from the cashmere fiber.
Cashmere fiber must not exceed 18.5 (+-.5) microns, and must have crimp. This is more of a crazy individual fiber crimp, not a uniform staple crimp you see in sheep’s wool. The fiber length must be a minimum of 1 ¼ after harvested. Dander in a fleece is bad, lice in a fleece is bad. A quality cashmere combed fleece should fill a 2 gallon baggie.
Some manufacturers use the term pashmina to describe an ultra fine cashmere fiber; others use the term to describe a blend of cashmere and silk. The FTC encourages manufacturers and sellers of products described as pashmina to explain to consumers, on a hangtag, for example, what they mean by the term.
As with all other wool products, the fiber content of a shawl, scarf or other item marketed as pashmina must be accurately disclosed. For example, a blend of cashmere and silk might be labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Silk or 70% Cashmere, 30% Silk, depending upon the actual cashmere and silk content. If the item contains only cashmere, it should be labeled 100% Cashmere or All Cashmere. The label cannot say 100% Pashmina, as pashmina is not a fiber recognized by the Wool Act or regulations.
Other RequirementsThe label must state the country of origin and the identity (name or Registered Identification Number - RN) of the manufacturer or another business responsible for marketing the item, in addition to the fiber content. For further information about the labeling of textile and wool products, see the FTC booklet Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts.
Care LabelsApparel care labels are required under the FTC's Care Labeling Rule. For information on complying with this rule, see Writing a Care Label: How to Comply with the Amended Care Labeling Rule.
Dry clean only? Many cashmere items are labeled Dry Clean Only. If your label says Dry Clean Only, you are telling consumers that the item can't be washed safely. To be accurate, you must have proof that the garment will be harmed by washing.
The truth is that many cashmere items can be washed safely at home. A label that says Dry Clean does not warn against washing and does not require proof that washing would harm the item.
For clothing that may be washed or dry cleaned, you must give instructions for at least one cleaning method. Of course, you may provide information about both cleaning methods. Consumers are telling the FTC that's what they want. Many consumers prefer to wash items that can be laundered at home.
For More InformationIf you have further questions about the Textile or Wool Acts, visit the FTC website at http://www.ftc.gov/ on the Web - click on Business Guidance, then Textile, Wool, Fur, & Apparel Matters.
Or call the Textile Information Line: 202-326-3553 (contains recorded information about textile, wool and RN matters)
For copies of this and other publications, contact: Consumer Response Center, Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580; toll-free 1-877-FTC-HELP (382-4357).
For more information about cashmere and other specialty wool products, contact:Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, 230 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02110-2409; http://www.cashmere.org/.
Dander or Lice?
What about the dander or lice in my fleece? Lice are sometimes seen in llama, mohair and alpaca and cashmere. Dander or skin flakes similar to dandruff is occasionally seen in mohair and cashmere goats and in the dual coat wool breeds like Shetland, Icelandic, and Karakul sheep. The good news about lice is they die when they loose their host so we are only seeing the dead nits (or eggs) on the fibers strands. The animal may have had lice at one time, then was wormed or deloused, but the nits are still in the fibers, just dead. Skin flakes or dander can be hereditary or due to a lack of zinc or minerals in the diet. Most common in the dual coat sheep and cashmere goats is skin flakes in the fleece from natural molting or shedding that occurs when the spring weather warms. Often called rooing, this is a normal process where the sheep shed their undercoat. This dander, skin flakes and lice nits can cause problems in a card and at the pin drafting machine. These items do not wash out at scouring so remain in the fiber through the processing. They act like sticky little pieces of gum and adhere to the card combs and the exit rollers on both machines. Then the fibers stick to these exit rollers also which then causes wrapping. So where the exit rollers should be extracting a nicely combed and formed roving, it is actually un-combing the fibers and wrapping them around the rollers. Not all lice or skin flakes create this problem but it occurs in at least half of the cases, with some worse than others. It is always harder to see lice or dander in the white fleeces. These contaminants are much more obvious and visible in the colored fibers.
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