Cashmere Processing and Harvesting Procedures

The Need to Understand Cashmere Processing and Harvesting Procedures
Mickey Nielsen, Liberty Farm Cashmere 2009
This article must be reproduced in its entirety and the name and contact information must be included at the beginning of any reprint. americancashmere@aol.com



Understanding Processing

Before you harvest your cashmere it is important to understand the mechanical processing of cashmere. Because the Cashmere goat has a dual coat (guard hair and down) it must be placed through a separator/dehairer. This separator/dehairer works by centrifugal force. As it spins around the heavier weight guard hair is thrown down to the under bins and the lighter cashmere fiber continues to travel to the end of the processer. When the guard hair is too long and fine it holds tight to the spinning drums and is not thrown down. Then the processing must stop to clean all the long guard hair from the drums as no other fiber can be processed until it is removed. This causes time loss and added cost to you the client. At times the guard hair cannot be completely removed; if it is too long or too fine then processing has to stop.

The scoured cashmere is placed through the separator a minimum of five times and it takes a minimum of six hours for each pound of cashmere.
What causes your fleece to travel through that separator more than the minimum is what you need to know about. Because the more times your fleece has to go through the separator the more potential damage happens to your delicate cashmere. You as the breeder/producer can control the quality of your cashmere product with some understanding and a few extra steps at harvest time.

The list of quality inhibitors looks like this;
too much guard hair, too long of guard hair, too fine of guard hair, matted down, short down, inconsistent length of down, weathered tips, vegetation contamination, and mixed grades.

Too much guard hair; this can be something that you need to correct in your breeding. As in some goats have high density of down and some have low density of down in relation to the guard hair. If you want to improve your yield improve your density first. The other reason you may have too much guard hair is the failure to skirt your shorn fleece before sending it into the processor. Many cashmere goats have excessive guard hair on the breech area. Taking a close look at this area before including it in your line can improving your product.

Too long of guard hair; this too can be changed with your breeding program. Any guard hair more than an inch longer than the down is too much. This can also be changed in the shearing shed by doing a double shear. Double shear means cutting off all the excessively long guard hair before you shear off the complete fleece. Skirting your fleece after you shear to eliminate the long guard hair is another option, but this is very time consuming and for most producers it just doesn’t happen. This is done by spreading the fleece out and pulling all the long guard hairs out of the shorn fleece.

Too fine of guard hair; can only be corrected through breeding. This is a really nasty problem to deal with because the dehairer cannot remove guard hair that is of the same micron as your down. You want the guard hair to be two to three times the micron of down. The dehairer also can not remove kemp (hollow cored hair).

Matted down; it is important to shear your cashmere goats before they start to shed, once they start to shed the down becomes trapped in the guard hair and if not removed quickly it becomes matted. If you cannot easily pull the mats apart with your fingers the separator cannot dehair it. Do not include these kinds of mats in your line.

Short down; is generally a breeding problem and needs to be corrected there. If you have goats with short down (less than 1.25 inch) it may be best to comb the down out as this does not cause any loss of length as shearing does. Short down will be kicked out of the separator with the guard hair.
Inconsistent length of down; is a breeding issue and a skirting issue. If you have a goat with major inconsistent lengths of down, separate out the areas of different lengths into different lines. Consistency is very important to look at when considering a goat for breeding.


Weathered Tips; is caused when guard hair does not cover the down. This must be taken into account when measuring the length of the fiber, and placing it into a processing line as these tips will become noils and may cause processing problems.

Vegetation contamination; “Being frugal and keeping 'every little bit' is not a benefit. It is like adding moldy strawberries into your fruit salad.” Diana Blair, Going to The Sun Fiber Mill.
Some parts of the fleece you just have to throw away because of the vegetation. If you don’t take it out at harvest time it will contaminate the whole clip.

Mixed grades; can ruin your end product. Educate yourself to detect fine from coarse fiber. Know what cashmere is and what cashgora is.
The first year clip is actually the hardest to dehair. The micron count between the guard hair and down is almost the same, plus the down tips are what the goat was born with and has very poor tencel strength, thus causing breakage and noiling. Some producers shear off the baby fleece in June for this reason.

Keep the baby fiber out of your other fiber


The Harvest
Plan to harvest on days that are dry and your goats are dry. A fleece that is wet or damp from snow or rain is very difficult to harvest and does not store well. Depending on where you live you may have to shut them up for a day or two to keep them dry before harvesting.

It is recommended that you shear your goats from youngest to oldest and white to dark. This helps to ensure two things. Shearing your younger goats first helps avoid accidently spreading any illness or disease that your older goats may have. White to dark fiber keeps your white line of fiber pure from dark hairs. Do not plan to trim hoofs at the same time as shearing, this can cause those trimmed hoof parts to get caught up in the shorn fleece. Processers hate this as it is hard on their equipment.

Tools and Equipment

Shearing: Cashmere goats are typically shown in the standing position.
You will need a stanchion or a head-bail to secure your goats in while shearing, quality power shears, new teeth and cutting blade for every 10 goats, shear oil, blade lubricant and blade cleaner. Individual marked bags for each fleece or grade lines, a garbage bin, broom, power outlet, and good lighting.

Combing: All the above apply except the power shears. Although a smaller grooming clipper set is nice to have on hand to tidy up the rear end. Double coated dog combs or rakes work well for combing cashmere goats. Find one with a nice comfortable grip that fits your hand well. You don’t want the rake to wide as they can be hard to work with.

Draft; your goats into handling pens noticing which goats look like their coats are lifting. These goats are the goats you want to harvest first. Draft them into pens according to age, sex, and color. Work from youngest to oldest, lightest to darkest. This is a great time to also get a good look at the condition of your goats and to give any needed boosters or parasite control.

Consider how long your goats will be penned up and if they require shade, food and water. Also notice the conditions you will be working in and what your requirements will be.

Sample the Fleece; once the goat is in the stanchion in three to five spots to compare uniformity and fineness grade. Also take note of vegetation in fleece and long guardhair. Decide what needs to be removed from the clip and if the clip needs to be sorted into different grades.

Recording the correct fleece weight harvested for each goat is important for clip improvement in the future. Record the method of harvest, uniformity, fineness, weight, color and any other trait that you desire. It is important to keep records on your harvest so you can keep improving your clip. Have each goat’s records and record all information gathered.

Skirting; the fleece can happen while you shear or after you shear. Skirting must be done while you comb as trying to remove lesser quality fiber after you comb is more difficult.

To skirt while you shear, decide which areas of the fleece you will not be keeping in the clip and toss these areas aside as you shear. You will not keep areas that have heavy vegetation (top line or neck), shorter than 1 ¼ inches, heavy stains, excessive guard hair to down ratio, matted or dung filled fiber.
If the fleece has more than one color, fineness grade or one inch difference in length from neck to breech; separate these areas into different lines.

Summary
The more understanding you can gain about the processing of animal fibers, the different pitfalls to avoid in your clip, and a better idea of what your animals produce the greater chance you have of producing quality cashmere products with less waste of your time and effort.

The need to place your fiber into as few of grade lines as possible and the need for a quality end produce have to be balanced. This is why consistency in your herd is important. You are charged for processing a minimum of one pound for each grade line.

There is much to learn about your cashmere goats and the process of producing quality cashmere products. Don’t give up, just keep learning. Ask your processer what you can do to improve your clip for next year. All of this will help to ensure a quality return product in the end.

PROCESSING AMERICAN CASHMERE

Complying with the Wool Products Labeling Act

Cashmere. The word evokes images of luxury, warmth and softness. The ultra-fine wool, from the undercoat of the Cashmere (or Kashmir) goat, is indeed a premium fiber - one that generally commands a much higher price than sheep's wool.
If you manufacture or sell clothing or household items that contain any wool, including specialty wools like cashmere, camel hair, mohair, alpaca, llama, or vicuna, you must comply with the Wool Products Labeling Act. That means your product labels must accurately reflect the items' fiber content, the country of origin, and the name of the manufacturer or marketer. Apparel items also must be labeled to show a safe cleaning method.
Fiber Content DisclosureProduct labels must reflect the true fiber content of the item. For example, if a sweater is made of wool, it can be labeled as 100% Wool, assuming it contains only wool. Likewise, if a sweater is made only of cashmere, it can be labeled as 100% Cashmere. Cashmere is a type of wool and also can be labeled as wool. If a sweater contains cashmere mixed with sheep’s wool, and the label refers to cashmere, the label must accurately disclose the content, e.g., 80% Wool, 20% Cashmere. It would be illegal to say simply Cashmere or Cashmere blend; the percentages must be stated. There is only one exception to the requirement that percentages be stated: the word All can be used in place of 100% if the product is made of only one fiber, e.g., All Wool or All Cashmere.
If a claim about the fiber content appears elsewhere on the garment, such as on a hangtag or a sleeve label, it must mirror the garment's fiber content label. For example, a coat labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool cannot have a hangtag or a sleeve label stating merely FINE CASHMERE GARMENT or FINE CASHMERE BLEND. In this instance, the hangtag or sleeve label also must say 50% Cashmere, 50% Wool - in equally conspicuous lettering.
The Textile Act allows a three percent tolerance for fiber content claims, but the Wool Products Labeling Act doesn't. However, the Wool Act says that deviation from the stated fiber content is not considered mislabeling if it results from "unavoidable variations" in the manufacturing process that occur despite the exercise of due care. For this reason, the FTC generally will apply the three percent tolerance to wool products. The three percent tolerance does not allow for intentional mislabeling. No tolerance is allowed for a 100% claim, as the addition of another fiber would always be intentional.
Testing is ImportantYou're responsible for label accuracy, even if you import, distribute or sell wool products manufactured by another company. You cannot necessarily rely on an invoice statement that the goods contain a specified amount of cashmere. Routine testing of fiber contents by a qualified, independent testing lab is the best assurance of accurate labels.
A trained expert, using an optical or electron microscope, can distinguish between cashmere fibers and sheep's wool fibers, following procedures established by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) or the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The basic distinction is not only one of diameter, as some sheep have now been bred to produce ultra fine fibers - with a diameter comparable to that of cashmere fibers. There are significant differences in the scale structure of the two fibers, and that is what the test expert looks for under the microscope.
Guaranty of ComplianceIf you buy and resell wool or cashmere products, you can ask your U.S. supplier for a "guaranty of compliance." The guaranty is a written statement on a product invoice or other dated document that states: "We guarantee that the wool products specified herein are not misbranded under the provisions of the Wool Products Labeling Act and rules and regulations thereunder."
In other words, the supplier guarantees that the wool and cashmere products sold to you are correctly labeled under the Wool Labeling Act. The guaranty must have the name and address of the guarantor. A "continuing guaranty", which covers all wool products sold by the guarantor, also can be filed with the FTC. Filing such a guaranty is an assurance by the guarantor that all of its products covered by the Wool Act are correctly labeled. A buyer who in good faith relies upon a properly executed guaranty will not be found in violation of the law if the goods are later determined to be mislabeled. Note, that good faith means acting prudently and not ignoring an indication (such as price or appearance) that an item may not be accurately labeled.
A special note about guaranties and foreign companies: A foreign company cannot file a continuing guaranty with the FTC. In addition, a guaranty from a foreign company is not a legal defense if the importer is charged with mislabeling products. A U.S. importer is legally responsible for the proper labeling of imported textile and wool products. Importers should test the fiber content of imported goods periodically to verify the accuracy of the label.
How Posh is Pashmina?The popularity of products marketed as pashmina - an Indian word for cashmere - has skyrocketed in recent years; yet most consumers aren't sure what pashmina is. That's not surprising, as pashmina is not a labeling term recognized by the Wool Act and rules. Experts tell the FTC there is no pashmina fiber that is separate and distinct from the cashmere fiber.
Cashmere fiber must not exceed 18.5 (+-.5) microns, and must have crimp. This is more of a crazy individual fiber crimp, not a uniform staple crimp you see in sheep’s wool. The fiber length must be a minimum of 1 ¼ after harvested. Dander in a fleece is bad, lice in a fleece is bad. A quality cashmere combed fleece should fill a 2 gallon baggie.
Some manufacturers use the term pashmina to describe an ultra fine cashmere fiber; others use the term to describe a blend of cashmere and silk. The FTC encourages manufacturers and sellers of products described as pashmina to explain to consumers, on a hangtag, for example, what they mean by the term.
As with all other wool products, the fiber content of a shawl, scarf or other item marketed as pashmina must be accurately disclosed. For example, a blend of cashmere and silk might be labeled 50% Cashmere, 50% Silk or 70% Cashmere, 30% Silk, depending upon the actual cashmere and silk content. If the item contains only cashmere, it should be labeled 100% Cashmere or All Cashmere. The label cannot say 100% Pashmina, as pashmina is not a fiber recognized by the Wool Act or regulations.
Other RequirementsThe label must state the country of origin and the identity (name or Registered Identification Number - RN) of the manufacturer or another business responsible for marketing the item, in addition to the fiber content. For further information about the labeling of textile and wool products, see the FTC booklet Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts.
Care LabelsApparel care labels are required under the FTC's Care Labeling Rule. For information on complying with this rule, see Writing a Care Label: How to Comply with the Amended Care Labeling Rule.
Dry clean only? Many cashmere items are labeled Dry Clean Only. If your label says Dry Clean Only, you are telling consumers that the item can't be washed safely. To be accurate, you must have proof that the garment will be harmed by washing.
The truth is that many cashmere items can be washed safely at home. A label that says Dry Clean does not warn against washing and does not require proof that washing would harm the item.
For clothing that may be washed or dry cleaned, you must give instructions for at least one cleaning method. Of course, you may provide information about both cleaning methods. Consumers are telling the FTC that's what they want. Many consumers prefer to wash items that can be laundered at home.
For More InformationIf you have further questions about the Textile or Wool Acts, visit the FTC website at http://www.ftc.gov/ on the Web - click on Business Guidance, then Textile, Wool, Fur, & Apparel Matters.
Or call the Textile Information Line: 202-326-3553 (contains recorded information about textile, wool and RN matters)
For copies of this and other publications, contact: Consumer Response Center, Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580; toll-free 1-877-FTC-HELP (382-4357).
For more information about cashmere and other specialty wool products, contact:Cashmere & Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, 230 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02110-2409; http://www.cashmere.org/.

Dander or Lice?
What about the dander or lice in my fleece?  Lice are sometimes seen in llama, mohair and alpaca and cashmere. Dander or skin flakes similar to dandruff is occasionally seen in mohair and cashmere goats and in the dual coat wool breeds like Shetland, Icelandic, and Karakul sheep. The good news about lice is they die when they loose their host so we are only seeing the dead nits (or eggs) on the fibers strands. The animal may have had lice at one time, then was wormed or deloused, but the nits are still in the fibers, just dead. Skin flakes or dander can be hereditary or due to a lack of zinc or minerals in the diet. Most common in the dual coat sheep and cashmere goats is skin flakes in the fleece from natural molting or shedding that occurs when the spring weather warms. Often called rooing, this is a normal process where the sheep shed their undercoat. This dander, skin flakes and lice nits can cause problems in a card and at the pin drafting machine. These items do not wash out at scouring so remain in the fiber through the processing. They act like sticky little pieces of gum and adhere to the card combs and the exit rollers on both machines. Then the fibers stick to these exit rollers also which then causes wrapping. So where the exit rollers should be extracting a nicely combed and formed roving, it is actually un-combing the fibers and wrapping them around the rollers. Not all lice or skin flakes create this problem but it occurs in at least half of the cases, with some worse than others. It is always harder to see lice or dander in the white fleeces. These contaminants are much more obvious and visible in the colored fibers.